Endgame: part 1
 

So, this is a build thread.

A little background... What I'm starting with is an FRPP/Whipple on the stock block, dyno'd at 502RWHP, but as we all know, it's never enough. Some of you may know I've been doing Mojave Mile, which is standing mile racing (wide open throttle from a stop for 1 mile, where your speed is trapped), and the car as configured topped out at 162.5, I could probably pulley down and overdrive, use meth injection to get it to about 650, but that would be the upper limit and probably wouldn't get me to where I want to be. So, it's time to upgrade. I talked over my goals with Greg at RET and he came up with a plan that is now underway.

First, the engine bay as it was when I dropped it off.
http://photosbydan.com/temp/tt00.jpg

Safety first, the rules state that to exceed 170, you need roll bars... I went with RPM rollbars bolt-in chromoly cage and had them paint it the color of my stripes.
http://photosbydan.com/temp/tt01.jpg
http://photosbydan.com/temp/tt02.jpg

RPM does good work and provided a speedy turnaround on the cage.

I'd have killed to finish where you started from! So, what are the components/planned work to get you to 650?

Sweet. Keep the status and pics coming.

Ooooh, nice. I'm guessing you'll have to play with the gear and final drive ratios too, no?

Also, covering a few holes in the front should help. I love my Stang, but it has the aerodynamics of a school bus :p

I don't necessarily have to mess with the gearing, I've currently got 3.55, plus I have already done the swap to the t56-magnum transmission for the s197, 6th is at a .62 final ratio. The calcs I've done show that the gearing as it exists should put me at about 175 in 5th at 6250 RPMs, and at 200 in 6th with 5500 RPMs. All of that assume enough brute force to get there of course. However I am considering dropping the rear end ratio to 3.08 (or 3.0 if I switch to a 9' rear end), for the simple reason that doing so would lower the driveshaft RPM (reducing chances of hitting critical RPM failure) and put the theoretical 200 number within 5th gear range, so less shifting and 1st and second would possibly be more than burnout mode.
I'm not really considering blocking the holes or doing any taping at this point, I had tried that at an earlier event and it gave me no advantage, I've gotten better results based on which direction the wind is blowing from throughout the day. Going for the brute force method.

Well there are 2 parts happening here, this thread is part 1, and I don't expect much change in power in this phase. I need to sell the whipple kit before going to part 2 which will be a long block swap to support the power levels this setup is capable of. Oh, and 650 is my goal for a 'street' tune, the race tune will be significantly more.

I'll get to the specifics as we go along, but here's another picture, this one is a bit depressing, the shiny Whipple kit is off and the stock intake manifold is on, what you can't see here are the Steeda charge motion delete plates under the manifold. Greg likes the characteristics of the stock manifold over the boss manifold for high boost applications. I've heard of issues where the boss manifold flexes under high boost making it hard to tune to. Regardless, it's kind of cool in that it makes it a bit stealthy.

http://photosbydan.com/temp/tt03.jpg

How effective was the FatMat? I did a 100sqft. job on a 67 coupe

Not quite as effective as I was hoping, but it does cut down on road noise. I think I should have doubled up on the tunnel and the rear wheel wells. I would probably get a bit more if I hit the roof and doors.

What power adder you going with?

Procharger or turbo?

Its very cool to see you go after your goals with the Mojave Mile and be willing to change your setup that much. Cage looks very nice, what kind of cost are we talking about?

For the cage, it started at about 2K, then the options of 6 point w/swing out bars, custom paint, road race cross brace, 5-point harness, harness attachment point kit... it was just over 3K delivered.

turbo.

After removing the h-pipe and replacing the K-member with a BMR tubular k-member (for more room for the pipes), he began mocking up the turbo location to start on the hot side fabrication.

http://photosbydan.com/temp/tt04.jpg
http://photosbydan.com/temp/tt05.jpg