Troubleshoot and collect $50
#1
Troubleshoot and collect $50
Let me start off by saying Im serious about my offer. I am the original owner of a 2006 Gt, and for the past 4 yers I have had a handful of situations when my car would not start.
Here is what I have noticed:
Situation is random (20+ times in 4 yrs) and typically occurs after car has sat overnight
90% of time has happened at home when car has been in the garage (not in cold)
Car seems to be starved of fuel during startups
Car will start and idle will be very rough...then car dies
I typically try to start the car immediately afterwards with no luck
Car sounds like it wants to start but will not cut on
I always check sct tuner for codes but only got a dtc (p0191 fuel sensor) once
Occurred twice in past week
Both cases pushed my car from garage (level) down driveway (20 ft 30 degree decline) and car started (gas tank was 1/4 filled)
Questions:
What fuel related components are needed to start the car?
What component would be sensitive to rolling the car down my driveway?
Should I be focused on the fuel pump (even though it's already been replaced)?
What should I pay attention to going forward?
About my car:
Has 40k miles (manual 2006 gt)
Running 93 breenspeed tune (past 5 years) with JLT CAI (no other performance mods)
Over the years dealer has tried to solve by replacing fuel pump, PCM, fuel filter
Throttle body, CAI and MAF sensor stay clean
Fuel relays look good
Car runs like a champ once on the road...only seeing problems at startup
This past week I brought the car to dealership ( of course it was runnin fine there)
They conducted some test (CPU and visual) and reported "everything looks normal"...no dtc
I asked them if I should replace the frps....but they said it is not needed for startups
Aside from this my car is awesome...however, I can no longer depend on a car that might get me stranded. I really don't won't to sell it, that's why I need some experts to weigh in.
How to collect $50?
Provide suggested solution
When I go back to dealer, I will share advice
All advice is welcomed
If your advice solves my problem...I will mail you a $50 check
I really hope you can help me solve this problem...thanks!
Here is what I have noticed:
Situation is random (20+ times in 4 yrs) and typically occurs after car has sat overnight
90% of time has happened at home when car has been in the garage (not in cold)
Car seems to be starved of fuel during startups
Car will start and idle will be very rough...then car dies
I typically try to start the car immediately afterwards with no luck
Car sounds like it wants to start but will not cut on
I always check sct tuner for codes but only got a dtc (p0191 fuel sensor) once
Occurred twice in past week
Both cases pushed my car from garage (level) down driveway (20 ft 30 degree decline) and car started (gas tank was 1/4 filled)
Questions:
What fuel related components are needed to start the car?
What component would be sensitive to rolling the car down my driveway?
Should I be focused on the fuel pump (even though it's already been replaced)?
What should I pay attention to going forward?
About my car:
Has 40k miles (manual 2006 gt)
Running 93 breenspeed tune (past 5 years) with JLT CAI (no other performance mods)
Over the years dealer has tried to solve by replacing fuel pump, PCM, fuel filter
Throttle body, CAI and MAF sensor stay clean
Fuel relays look good
Car runs like a champ once on the road...only seeing problems at startup
This past week I brought the car to dealership ( of course it was runnin fine there)
They conducted some test (CPU and visual) and reported "everything looks normal"...no dtc
I asked them if I should replace the frps....but they said it is not needed for startups
Aside from this my car is awesome...however, I can no longer depend on a car that might get me stranded. I really don't won't to sell it, that's why I need some experts to weigh in.
How to collect $50?
Provide suggested solution
When I go back to dealer, I will share advice
All advice is welcomed
If your advice solves my problem...I will mail you a $50 check
I really hope you can help me solve this problem...thanks!
#2
The next time it gives you alittle trouble, press the fuel pump reset button. It's red and slightly further back than the hood release lever. Turn the key to AC mode and wait a few seconds for the pump to prime. Do it a few more times for good measure, then start.
That's the only thing I can think of, but I dunno how to remedy it further...
That's the only thing I can think of, but I dunno how to remedy it further...
#4
6th Gear Member
Baddog may be on the right track. Since your car starts after pushing it out of the garage, I'm assuming that you turn the ignition to accessory (AC mode as baddog put it) in order to do that, which primes the fuel system.
If slow to prime IS the problem, I'd replace the fuel filter if you haven't done that in the last 25k-30k miles plus I'd run a few tanks with SeaFoam. Have you had any battery/alternator issues lately?
If slow to prime IS the problem, I'd replace the fuel filter if you haven't done that in the last 25k-30k miles plus I'd run a few tanks with SeaFoam. Have you had any battery/alternator issues lately?
Last edited by Nuke; 10-20-2012 at 09:03 PM.
#5
Thanks for the input fellas
I will try the reset button
I haven't tried seafoam, but use techron fuel cleaner about every 5k. Interestingly enough, my battery did die (jumped it) a day or two before the most recent situation. Other than that no problems.
FYI -the only reason I rolled my car down he driveway was because I was pushing it to the tow truck. Prior to last week, I never saw any correlation between moving/jarring my car and getting it to start.
I feel like something could be providing a false fuel reading to the injectors? Prior to start up. Also, could there be something in my fuel tank that is not working properly...given the " jarring" theory.
Thanks!
I will try the reset button
I haven't tried seafoam, but use techron fuel cleaner about every 5k. Interestingly enough, my battery did die (jumped it) a day or two before the most recent situation. Other than that no problems.
FYI -the only reason I rolled my car down he driveway was because I was pushing it to the tow truck. Prior to last week, I never saw any correlation between moving/jarring my car and getting it to start.
I feel like something could be providing a false fuel reading to the injectors? Prior to start up. Also, could there be something in my fuel tank that is not working properly...given the " jarring" theory.
Thanks!
#6
had a similar problem on my f150, drove me crazy. finally found the problem, the plug to gas tank was not seated all the way. either my gauge would work but the truck would not start or would start and the gauge would not work. luckily i had another tank to switch to, had the truck for about 3 years before it started having this problem. to repair i thought you had to drop tank being the rear but ended up getting a yard stick and pushed it together and latched, no more problems.
#8
Your starter may be dieing a slow death. The car starting after you push it out of the garage maybe a coincidence. If the starter isn't spinning the motor fast enough, then it will not start.
Have you tried turning the key on, then off, then back on again? Essentially priming the fuel system twice. You may have a crack in the in tank fuel line.
Have you tried turning the key on, then off, then back on again? Essentially priming the fuel system twice. You may have a crack in the in tank fuel line.
Last edited by moosestang; 10-21-2012 at 06:10 AM.
#9
Looking to better understand the components that are used to deliver fuel from tank to engine...anyone have a diagram?
Doing some research I found some fuel related problems Associated to the following:
Evap canister
Purge valve
Fuel inlet hose
Fuel tank pressure sensor ftps
...should any of these be considered suspects.
Thanks for the input...Keep the feedback coming
Doing some research I found some fuel related problems Associated to the following:
Evap canister
Purge valve
Fuel inlet hose
Fuel tank pressure sensor ftps
...should any of these be considered suspects.
Thanks for the input...Keep the feedback coming
#10
Fuel pump check valves are notorious to go bad on newer Fords. These keep pressure in the fuel line for quicker starting. When these go bad, the fuel pressure will go straight to zero after the key is off. This causes the fuel system to have to FULLY prime again (as most of the fuel from the rail/lines will return to the tank by gravity) and cause an extended crank. It can also cause the vehicle to run rough for a few seconds after starting. Obviously the only way to test this is to install a fuel pressure gauge and watch the fuel pressure once the key is turned off. It should hold pressure (+/- 10 psi) for quite a while... There is a spec for this (time vs bleed off).
The only fix for this is replace the fuel pump assembly. Just because you have a new pump doesn't mean it's not bad. I've had tons of parts come out of the box broken.
Also having a small hole in fuel line inside the tank can cause similar problems (as moosestang said)
Nick
The only fix for this is replace the fuel pump assembly. Just because you have a new pump doesn't mean it's not bad. I've had tons of parts come out of the box broken.
Also having a small hole in fuel line inside the tank can cause similar problems (as moosestang said)
Nick