Originally Posted by SapperDaddy21B

Okay, I'll try to keep it short and simple, and start from the beginning.

WHO'RE YOU?

I was on the forums a while back when I started having issues with my Mustang, about a year ago almost.

WHAT CAR'S THIS ABOUT?

2011 Mustang GT

WHAT'S WRONG?

My motor seized up on me, we're assuming that it threw a bearing, and that's what was causing the seize., but we're not too sure. My issue is that my motor has seized and that I need to remove the engine, tear it down, replace the rotating assembly with forged parts, and put it back together again.

WHAT'S THE HISTORY?

I received the car in 2011. I modded the car right off the bat, in the first couple of months. At the most, I've had headers, mid pipe, axle back, intake, and intake manifold on the car with 93R tune from Bama Performance.

After a year, the car decided that it wanted to blow cylinder 8. I've never used any other tunes other than Bama's tune.

I took the car to FORD, they said they'd void the warranty if any tunes were found. I called BAMA, they said they'd fix the car if it was under warranty when the issues started, or something to that effect (sorry, i'm really not trying to misquote anyone).

Dealer said that Ford wants the warranty voided, and the warranty was voided. Dealer switched out piston in cylinder #8, and I was charged 700 bucks for the whole thing.

Car was given back to me without a vaccuum hose clamped where it should be. I figured it out after 2 weeks of driving. Car started hesitating when accelerating, no smoke, no visible issues.

2 months after heard rod knock when idling, changed oil, went on road, sounded fine, WOT for ONE pull, and the car died on the road.


WELL... WTH DO YOU WANT FROM US?

I'd like your advice.

I've acquired the following items:



Rotating Assembly .20 Oversized from Stock, @ 10:1 compression ratio for Single / Twin Turbocharger later down the line.

I am going to need to get the following items ( or so I am told ) to rebuild and make the motor strong enough to take forced induction further down the line without any issues:



My questions are as follows:

1) Will I need a new Oil Pump? I want to go for 6-850 HP to the wheels when everything is said and done. Anywhere between that and I'll be a happy camper. Do I need a better one, or can I just use the one I have, or a stock replacement pump?

2) Being that I'm just doing bottom end work, is there anything else that you'd get to make sure the car was stable, until Head work and the turbos went in?

3) How much do you think it would cost to have a machine shop rebuild this motor, given that I'm buying all the parts?

4) Does anyone know of any machine shops around the South NY / North NJ area that can do the work I need? I tried searching online, to no avail. I used google, and searched Machine Shop and all I found were plastic manufactureres.... And all the guys I spoke with want 5000+ even with me supplying everything that's needed for the rebuild.

5) Any advice for me?

Thank you for reading. I know it's a giant wall of text, but I really would like any assistance I can get. Trying to get this whole thing done in the next couple of months, and I'm slowly.... painfully slowly saving up the money to rebuild my motor. I know you get what you pay for... But I don't know anyone that struggles to make ends meet that has 6 grand to plop down onto an engine rebuild, lol.

Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by Mr2013GT

I spun a bearing in my previous 5.0 (missed shift - don't make fun of me), the motor did not act like yours, the rod started knocking on the crank eventually. No seized engine or anything of that nature. The engine held together and spun until it was replaced by Ford.

As for the rebuild? If you're going to rip it apart, i'd add up all the parts your're going to need, machine time on the block if needed, labor, everything, and see if it outweighs the cost of an Aluminator longblock, then add in the price of any parts you'll need that DON'T come with the longblock, if you don't already have them. I take it you already have things like the intake manifold, cold air intake tube, etc.

If you find that the Aluminator + parts costs more than the other route, (buying a rotating assembly, cost of labor etc.,) then i'd definately say GET BOSS 302 BEARINGS, make sure everything is torqued down properly, make sure there's no leaks (go through your owners manual, locate and check every line, whether it be vaccum, coolant, whatever) and be specific on your compression ratio and every aftermarket part you have installed (size of throttle bodies, cold air intakes, what manifold you have, etc.) so the tune is spot-on and you don't get detonation.

Evolution Performance are in Pennsylvania if i'm not mistaken, one of the most reputable Mustang shops around.

Originally Posted by S197GT07

+1 on taking the car to JPC, they will get it right the first time.

Also, did BAMA actually every pay for anything?