do i need to replace all four rotors
#6
If you're going to have them turned, it's best to have them turned ON the car as opposed to removing, turning and reinstalling the rotors.
When you have them turned on the car it also takes in to account any lateral runout you have on your spindle/hub from surfaces that don't mate prefectly between the spindle/hub and rotor. In other words you get a more true turn.
Any shop these days that has decent brake service capabilities should have the equipment to do an on-car turn. If they don't, look elsewhere.
For reference, one brand of an on-car lathe is called Pro-cut.
When you have them turned on the car it also takes in to account any lateral runout you have on your spindle/hub from surfaces that don't mate prefectly between the spindle/hub and rotor. In other words you get a more true turn.
Any shop these days that has decent brake service capabilities should have the equipment to do an on-car turn. If they don't, look elsewhere.
For reference, one brand of an on-car lathe is called Pro-cut.
Last edited by Derf00; 11-08-2012 at 01:23 PM.
#7
Front rotors, steering shimmy, rear rotors, brake paddle pulsates. I would never turn the rotors to cure the problem. Always replace the rotors. The reason for the problem is due to the thinning of the rotors. When you turn the rotors, you put a band aid on it, and the problem will come right back and worse. Always replace the rotors!
#8
Nothing wrong with machining rotors. When they get thin, close to the spec, yes they will warp easier. But have you seen the thickness of the rotors on these cars. It takes a lot of heat to warp them. If you are constantly doing it you are either riding the brakes or needing to invest into some better race style brakes.
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