after engine rebuild car wont start
#21
This sounds a lot like a timing issue to me. I rebuilt an old 1984 Nissan Datsun, and when finished it acted a lot like what you are describing. I beat my head on the wall for almost a full day before I realized one of the plug wires had been placed on the wrong plug. Switched it and she fired right up.
Last edited by DSargent09; 12-09-2012 at 08:52 AM.
#22
This sounds a lot like a timing issue to me. I rebuilt an old 1984 Nissan Datsun, and when finished it acted a lot like what you are describing. I beat my head on the wall for almost a full day before I realized one of the plug wires had been placed on the wrong plug. Switched it and she fired right up.
Something to try is unplug one of the cam position sensors and try cranking, then plug it back in and try unplugging the other if it still won't start. Unplugging the sensor should cause it to fire twice on that bank. it will fire on compression and exhaust stroke.
#23
This sounds a lot like a timing issue to me. I rebuilt an old 1984 Nissan Datsun, and when finished it acted a lot like what you are describing. I beat my head on the wall for almost a full day before I realized one of the plug wires had been placed on the wrong plug. Switched it and she fired right up.
#24
Quoting your post to reiterate the timing issue. Maze, are you sure you didn't install one of the cam shafts 180 degrees out from the other? This would cause the fuel injectors to fire with the intake valve closed and may prevent starting. It wouldn't cause piston to valve contact either.
Something to try is unplug one of the cam position sensors and try cranking, then plug it back in and try unplugging the other if it still won't start. Unplugging the sensor should cause it to fire twice on that bank. it will fire on compression and exhaust stroke.
Something to try is unplug one of the cam position sensors and try cranking, then plug it back in and try unplugging the other if it still won't start. Unplugging the sensor should cause it to fire twice on that bank. it will fire on compression and exhaust stroke.
#25
just tried unplugging the cam sensor and nothing changed, it did the same thing over and over till the battery starts giving up...i'm beating my head on the wall cant seem to come up with any ideas but to remove the engine and start looking at everything all over!
also after removing the fuel tank and cleaning everything etc the fuel gauge still tells me it empty.. any ideas on why?
also after removing the fuel tank and cleaning everything etc the fuel gauge still tells me it empty.. any ideas on why?
#26
just tried unplugging the cam sensor and nothing changed, it did the same thing over and over till the battery starts giving up...i'm beating my head on the wall cant seem to come up with any ideas but to remove the engine and start looking at everything all over!
also after removing the fuel tank and cleaning everything etc the fuel gauge still tells me it empty.. any ideas on why?
also after removing the fuel tank and cleaning everything etc the fuel gauge still tells me it empty.. any ideas on why?
Did you try unplugging one at a time? There are two sensors.
Have you pulled the spark plugs? Did you verify you have spark? I assume you have fuel, you'd smell it through the exhaust.
#27
Maze, I still say follow that fuel gage. It sounds to me like you left a ground disconneted somewhere. It is a good possibility that the fuel gage and pump use the same ground. What type of fuel pump set up are you running? If you did not hook up the ground, the pump may still run but you will not get full pressure.
#28
Maze, I still say follow that fuel gage. It sounds to me like you left a ground disconneted somewhere. It is a good possibility that the fuel gage and pump use the same ground. What type of fuel pump set up are you running? If you did not hook up the ground, the pump may still run but you will not get full pressure.
#29
You need four basic elements to get that thing running. Fuel, air, spark, and timing. If you've verified you have fuel, and spark, you're either not getting air (or the proper metering of it via the MAF), or the timing is somehow off. Who verified that the timing phasers and cams were all in their right spots when connecting the chain?
#30
well fuel is there, double checked all the coils and plugs and they seem to be working, as for the air disconnecting the MAF sensor and tuning didnt change anything, so maybe its the timing... is there a clear way to identify without removing the engine that the timing is off?