Do I need a new rear caliper?
01-13-2013, 09:34 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 465
Okay ... let's try to figure this out then.
1. Did you use the right adapter on the caliper tool, the one with the two pegs that fit into the indents on the piston face?
2. If the tool is working correctly, it will bind after pushing the piston in slightly; when it binds you have to loosen the handle to release the bind, then turn the collar to move it away from the handle end then turn the handle CW until the tool binds again. You repeat this process until the piston is sufficiently reset for the caliper to fit over the pads. I don't consciously think of all the steps when resetting the pistons with the caliper tool, so I hope this makes sense to you.
I recall that I had to apply quite a bit of torque to turn those pistons in.
1. Did you use the right adapter on the caliper tool, the one with the two pegs that fit into the indents on the piston face?
2. If the tool is working correctly, it will bind after pushing the piston in slightly; when it binds you have to loosen the handle to release the bind, then turn the collar to move it away from the handle end then turn the handle CW until the tool binds again. You repeat this process until the piston is sufficiently reset for the caliper to fit over the pads. I don't consciously think of all the steps when resetting the pistons with the caliper tool, so I hope this makes sense to you.
I recall that I had to apply quite a bit of torque to turn those pistons in.
Last edited by 6-Speed; 01-13-2013 at 11:37 PM.
01-14-2013, 11:24 AM
#12
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nor Cali
Posts: 2,059
Okay ... let's try to figure this out then.
1. Did you use the right adapter on the caliper tool, the one with the two pegs that fit into the indents on the piston face?
2. If the tool is working correctly, it will bind after pushing the piston in slightly; when it binds you have to loosen the handle to release the bind, then turn the collar to move it away from the handle end then turn the handle CW until the tool binds again. You repeat this process until the piston is sufficiently reset for the caliper to fit over the pads. I don't consciously think of all the steps when resetting the pistons with the caliper tool, so I hope this makes sense to you.
I recall that I had to apply quite a bit of torque to turn those pistons in.
1. Did you use the right adapter on the caliper tool, the one with the two pegs that fit into the indents on the piston face?
2. If the tool is working correctly, it will bind after pushing the piston in slightly; when it binds you have to loosen the handle to release the bind, then turn the collar to move it away from the handle end then turn the handle CW until the tool binds again. You repeat this process until the piston is sufficiently reset for the caliper to fit over the pads. I don't consciously think of all the steps when resetting the pistons with the caliper tool, so I hope this makes sense to you.
I recall that I had to apply quite a bit of torque to turn those pistons in.
Yeah I used the right adapter. This is my 2nd time doing brakes on my car and never had a problem before.
01-14-2013, 05:50 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 465
01-19-2013, 11:47 PM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nor Cali
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I completed the brake job today. What a pain in the ***! I finished the passenger side after more expletives were thrown at the car. I had bought a new caliper piston tool that attaches to a socket wrench. This was more efficient than the ones you turn with your bare hands. The piston moved just enough so I can slip it over the pads. After that was done, I then proceeded to the driver side and ran into the same snag. Piston wouldn't move all the way in even with the bleeder screw completely removed. I stopped and thought about it for awhile...**What the hell is blocking the piston???**...That's when I decided to loosen the flow bolt that connects to the banjo fitting/brake hose. Oh my god! I was then able to turn the piston with little effort and seated that sucker flush. I could've saved myself hours of work if I had done that in the first place. I didn't think to try it because I thought removing the bleeder screw was enough. 
01-20-2013, 10:33 AM
#15
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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I completed the brake job today. What a pain in the ***! I finished the passenger side after more expletives were thrown at the car. I had bought a new caliper piston tool that attaches to a socket wrench. This was more efficient than the ones you turn with your bare hands. The piston moved just enough so I can slip it over the pads. After that was done, I then proceeded to the driver side and ran into the same snag. Piston wouldn't move all the way in even with the bleeder screw completely removed. I stopped and thought about it for awhile...**What the hell is blocking the piston???**...That's when I decided to loosen the flow bolt that connects to the banjo fitting/brake hose. Oh my god! I was then able to turn the piston with little effort and seated that sucker flush. I could've saved myself hours of work if I had done that in the first place. I didn't think to try it because I thought removing the bleeder screw was enough.
03-06-2013, 08:03 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 155
I had EXACTLY the same problem. I eventually disconnected the banjo bolt and the Ebrake, took the caliper to the bench and it turned in easily. So there is something that disconnecting the brake line does that loosening the bleeder screw does not.
Glad to have my problem duplicated - too bad you had so much frustration. I fiqured I was going to bleed the brakes anyway so what's to loose bydisconnecting the banjo bolt.
Glad to have my problem duplicated - too bad you had so much frustration. I fiqured I was going to bleed the brakes anyway so what's to loose bydisconnecting the banjo bolt.
03-06-2013, 08:29 PM
#17
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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The actual cause of the binding was a flow/banjo bolt washer that was too thin and it allowed the flow/banjo bolt to go in too far and hit the piston. I found this out a day or two after my last post when my left rear brake pad wasn't releasing so I took everything apart and took a closer look. I removed the flow/banjo bolt and looked inside the caliper and saw score marks on the piston from the bolt hitting it. The solution is to get a thicker washer or double up on the washer like I did. Problem solved. Piston can be turned in smoothly every time.
03-13-2013, 06:06 PM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 155
Awesome info. Did you use just a 'normal' washer or something special? Can you be a bit more specific? Do you think this might cause a noise from the caliper/brakes? I changed my rear pads (to try something) which were only 1/2 worn because of a 'tshhh' typ noise that seemed to be there all the time regardless of brake pressure or anything else but the noise seemed to be coming from the general area of the brakes. I also had a hell of a time removing the caliper because the calipers weren't releasing - very similar to your experience. I think you're on to something.
03-13-2013, 09:20 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nor Cali
Posts: 2,059
Awesome info. Did you use just a 'normal' washer or something special? Can you be a bit more specific? Do you think this might cause a noise from the caliper/brakes? I changed my rear pads (to try something) which were only 1/2 worn because of a 'tshhh' typ noise that seemed to be there all the time regardless of brake pressure or anything else but the noise seemed to be coming from the general area of the brakes. I also had a hell of a time removing the caliper because the calipers weren't releasing - very similar to your experience. I think you're on to something.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=347132_0_0_
It's an assortment pack. Just pick the one that just fits over the bolt and the thickness depends on what you need. There's different thicknesses.
03-22-2013, 08:34 AM
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 155
I added a copper washer to my rear caliper banjo bolts - but didn't take the car out to see if it made any difference to my noise issue nor did I have to retract the pistons - already did the brakes. Too much snow around - I thought this Global Warming was supposed to warm things up a bit. Way too much winter and too much snow this year. I want summer!!!