JoshyGT

So I replaced the front lower control arms with FRPP GT500 control arms and....

Still didn't fix the issue. But first, a quick review of the install...

1. Write up on AM isn't idiot proof.
2. If you don't have 18mm and 21mm sockets, short and deep, get them.
3. Bblaster is you're friend.
4. Don't. Do. This. Solo.
5. Remove bolt steering from top, not bottom. Easy to miss that the bottom nut is welded on. It took me 2 hours and the purchase of an impact drill before I noticed.
6. Brute force is necessary.
7. It's a pain in the **** getting old part out and new part in.

But alas, it didn't fix the clicking/popping. I'm exploring the struts now. Thoughts? The springs only have about 40K on them (FRPP) so should I just focus on struts and mounts? Gah my tax return has vaporized!

loots06

I had the same clunking noise. This is what I did to finally resolve the issue. Let me say first, in all likelyhood its the end links, sway bar or both, simple fix really. Remove front tires, remove end links, secure sway bar with zip ties or duck tape. Mount tires drive around the block. If you still have the clunking/popping noise then replace the strut mounts. If the noise has gone away then its the end links(bad end links or not torqued to spec) or sway bar not torqued to spec.

Just so you know, Ford redesigned the front end links because of this issue. The new design is a great improvement, use the search button to find it. If you want to save some cash replace with the new design if you want to spend more money buy these to fix your issue..

http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/Pre...-FRST-9011.htm

If you feel you end links are still good then put them back and but use blue locktite and torque to spec. Be mindful that if you starting experience a fozen end link you will notice the difference, your car will feel a little loose.

Can I ask how many males are on your car?

pascal

Motor/tranny mounts, that's what.
Sway bar mounts is another place to look...
Josh, always replace the cheap items if you have to, when you're not sure and go from there.

whosniffedme

My end links went bad, and it was more of a squeaking noise. I'm telling you, open your hood, and turn your car left and right from a dead stop and have a friend listen to the tops of the strut towers. I'm almost positive this is your problem.

JoshyGT

Pascal - I know I know! Kills me. I'll check sway bars next, but I don't think it's the motor/tranny mounts...

Hey I need to get hooked up with you sooner or later and get my car sprayed, it's looking beat but then again... so is my checkbook!

-J

JoshyGT

I'll try this, good call. Will post results.

moosestang

I found swapping the front arms pretty easy. Much easier than the front arms on my 99 ford ranger. You don't need to move the steering rack at all. Just pop the tie rod out of the spindle and turn the wheel all the way. Then push on the inner tie rod boot with one hand while removing the lca bolt with the other. The toughest part was getting the ball joint out of the spindle, but with a little penetrating oil, long punch and hammer, it pops right out. Took me 2 hours total and I took a break for lunch. I also change the tie rods. Still haven't driven it because of rain.

A rubber mallet, hammer and large crescent wrenches are helpful.

ZPounds07GT

Popping is probably from strut mounts, clunking is probably from A Arm/Ball Joint or Tie Rod ends. I'm having a clunking issue and I already replaced my A Arms which didn't help. Next I'm doing a bump steer kit.

Turn the steering wheel straight, lift the front of the car, grab the tire at 9 and 3, push and pull to see if the wheel moves as if you were tuning the steering wheel. If it moves then the tie rods are bad. This is what I found through a search on another forum.

JoshyGT

Alright, so here's the story. I finally just broke down and took it to Ford, I actually like the team at my local store so I'm not concerned about the results they gave me.

The popping/clicking is actually the stabilizer end links.

The cost to replace the end links and put it all back together is around $200 - less than I figured though I'm sure I can replace them myself for less. He also said they found the rear pinion leaking, which I suspected as I've seen a few spots in the garage here and there. To take it apart, refill the fluid, replace the seal, and put it back together it's around $200.

Thought I'd pass the results to everyone as I know it's been a problem a lot of people have had to deal with. Just wish the lower control arms would have fixed it!!!

Thanks for all the info!