Brake pedal still a little soft after bleeding
03-24-2013, 07:11 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,495
Zinda is correct, as there should have been no air in the lines to bubble out. It is a closed system, and you do not need to bleed the brakes for simply changing the pads and rotors. I understand why you did, but if the fluid was discolored and had air in it, you may have a bad master cylinder, or bad lines. I have had a bad master cylinder before, and the pedal was spongy, and I had to keep pressing the pedal harder and harder, to keep the car from rolling at stop lights. It would stop the car, but then slowly loose pressure and the car would start rolling. Check everthing to be safe.
03-25-2013, 11:09 AM
#12
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 65
Art161 is absolutely correct. Plug the output ports on the master cylinder, and see if you can hold pressure on the pedal. If the pedal starts to drift down at all, then replace it. If you do replace it, be sure to bench bleed the new one before you install it, using the included instructions, or you will still have a spongy pedal due to air traped in the new master cylinder.
03-25-2013, 04:27 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
First off, I hope I am posting in the right section. My apologies if not, haven't visited the forum in quite a while.
* * *
The pedal feel was considerably better than it was originally, but it wasn't what I expected (still soft).
I was wondering if anyone can add some insight into what might be causing it and how I can remedy the situation, thanks!
* * *
The pedal feel was considerably better than it was originally, but it wasn't what I expected (still soft).
I was wondering if anyone can add some insight into what might be causing it and how I can remedy the situation, thanks!
Of course, check and make sure everything is in proper working order. Trying to stop an S197 with no brakes is a little difficult. If you don't find anything obviously wrong, then try driving it for a week or so and see what the pedal feels like.
Last edited by JThor; 03-25-2013 at 04:30 PM. Reason: typos
03-25-2013, 04:33 PM
#15
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: California
Posts: 140
It may be that there is nothing wrong with the system. The brake pads take a little while to break in. The pedal can feel a little soft during this break in period.
Of course, check and make sure everything is in proper working order. Trying to stop an S197 with no brakes is a little difficult. If you don't find anything obviously wrong, then try driving it for a week or so and see what the pedal feels like.
Of course, check and make sure everything is in proper working order. Trying to stop an S197 with no brakes is a little difficult. If you don't find anything obviously wrong, then try driving it for a week or so and see what the pedal feels like.
03-25-2013, 04:39 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
Also, be careful about opening up the system. If air gets into the ABS (I think the 2005's had ABS), it can be a PITA to get out. You will probably have to go to the dealer and get the system flushed in that case. Unless you are really sure that you have a master cylinder problem, I would be hesitant to open up those lines.
03-25-2013, 04:53 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: California
Posts: 140
Also, be careful about opening up the system. If air gets into the ABS (I think the 2005's had ABS), it can be a PITA to get out. You will probably have to go to the dealer and get the system flushed in that case. Unless you are really sure that you have a master cylinder problem, I would be hesitant to open up those lines.
$190 for both trans/brake flush isn't bad and on the brake side it's just an additional $20 over what a vacuum pump + new fluid would cost.
03-25-2013, 07:33 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
That sounds like a good price. The dealer nearby me wants $68.00 plus fluid for a flush. My car is overdue. I'm probably going to get it done in a couple of weeks. Unless you have the special tools you can't flush the ABS. It has to be someone with the right tools. Whoever you are having do the work, make sure the shop has the tools to cycle the ABS during the flush. Otherwise, the ABS will not get flushed.
Last edited by JThor; 03-25-2013 at 07:37 PM.
03-29-2013, 01:14 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
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