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Steering Knuckle Pinch Bolt

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Old 04-05-2013, 08:42 AM
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MustangMan1718
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Default Steering Knuckle Pinch Bolt

Currently attempting to toss on the GT500 LCAs up front to replace the bad lower ball joints, but I have already run into a snag.

I was easily able to remove the nut off of the bolt, but every time I try to turn the bolt to remove it, it just rotates in place. I even tried to put the nut on the back to to hold it in place, but it still just rotates in place. Same deal when I lightly tried to use the impact gun on it.

Any ideas on how to get this out? I thought about taking a hammer to it, but I was worried about the end getting mushroomed, or tearing up the threads.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:11 AM
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MustangMan1718
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Not meaning to talk to myself here, but I was able to take off my tie rod end as it needed replaced anyway and just smack the bolt through with a hammer.

Now I have run into the issue of busting the nut on the back of the tie rod end loose however. I tried to knuckle-bust it to no avail. I also tried to put a wrench on it and smack the back with a hammer. All I am left with is some stretchmarks on my shoulders from exerting myself. The other side was nowhere near this tough. Advice on breaking this **** loose would be appreciated.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:27 PM
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Derf00
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So you're replacing the front LCA and the tie rod(s)?

Use some penetrating oil on the tie rod nut and gently tap around it with a brass hammer to work into the nut/bolt threads. Then try again in a couple hours. Salt probably got in there and added a layer of surface rust that's acting like glue.
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:07 PM
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moosestang
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Originally Posted by Derf00
So you're replacing the front LCA and the tie rod(s)?

Use some penetrating oil on the tie rod nut and gently tap around it with a brass hammer to work into the nut/bolt threads. Then try again in a couple hours. Salt probably got in there and added a layer of surface rust that's acting like glue.
I let mine soak in some wd40, all I had, that was enough to loosen it.

I tapped the ball joint pinch bolts out with a hammer and socket extension.

Don't drop the steering rack, it's not necessary. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right or left and move the tiierod up out of the way. You have to push on the boot while pulling the control arm bolt out, but it's easier than dropping the rack.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:23 AM
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petrock
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I’m not familiar with the ’05 front end, but typically if you can’t get the ball joint shaft out of the whole it slides into take a BFH and hit what the shaft it goes into. So if its a tie rod end, hit the steering knuckle arm. It may take a few whacks but it will come loose. You don’t want to hit down on the shaft because you could mushroom the end of the shaft and never be able to get it out. Here is a good video on what I’m talking about.



If your having trouble either tightening or loosening the nut on the ball joint or tie rod end, take a pry bar or large screw driver and pry on it towards the nut in order to put the nut into a bind. This will give enough friction to make it so you can turn the nut without the shaft turning too. Here is a good video showing what I’m talking about:

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Old 04-07-2013, 12:17 AM
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MustangMan1718
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Sorry for the lack of updates. Between working and pacifying my family for taking up garage space, I have had my hands full. I also had to admit that I have bitten off a bit more than I can chew. I didn't take into account that my car is a DD in the Rustbelt before ordering and that it would actually be this rough.

I have gotten in contact with one of my buddies that I used to work with. His point of view is that it isn't worth it to wrestle with tough bolts when you can just cut them out and replace them with new ones in much less time. While I trust him, (he has an automotive degree and has swapped in an RB25 engine and transmission into is S14 240SX) I am a bit worried as the bolts that are still remaining are the ones in the tightest areas. Not sure how a hammer is going to fit into there.

I really appreciate all of the help as well. I have learned my lesson to ask questions first and order parts second as well. Sure it sucks that I have hurt my pride and had to call in for reinforcements, but in the end I will have upgraded parts and a lesson that will stick with me through life.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:23 AM
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moosestang
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Originally Posted by MustangMan1718
Sorry for the lack of updates. Between working and pacifying my family for taking up garage space, I have had my hands full. I also had to admit that I have bitten off a bit more than I can chew. I didn't take into account that my car is a DD in the Rustbelt before ordering and that it would actually be this rough.

I have gotten in contact with one of my buddies that I used to work with. His point of view is that it isn't worth it to wrestle with tough bolts when you can just cut them out and replace them with new ones in much less time. While I trust him, (he has an automotive degree and has swapped in an RB25 engine and transmission into is S14 240SX) I am a bit worried as the bolts that are still remaining are the ones in the tightest areas. Not sure how a hammer is going to fit into there.

I really appreciate all of the help as well. I have learned my lesson to ask questions first and order parts second as well. Sure it sucks that I have hurt my pride and had to call in for reinforcements, but in the end I will have upgraded parts and a lesson that will stick with me through life.
What bolts can't you get out? the two rear bolts are a little difficult to get in by yourself. One will go in fine, but to line up the second bolt, you need to pull down on the mount or have someone push down on it.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by moosestang
What bolts can't you get out? the two rear bolts are a little difficult to get in by yourself. One will go in fine, but to line up the second bolt, you need to pull down on the mount or have someone push down on it.
The two inside flag bolts and the two bolts that attach to the frame near the inner tie rods.

The inside bolts I can't seem to generate enough torque to bust them loose while laying under the car and smacking the back of my hand like I would a drain plug. I've tried both sides of the nut and bolt that go to the frame (the AM directions say to do the bolt and not the nut), and I think that is the dreaded one that is welded from what I have read.
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