Mustang Maintenance Ideas
04-09-2013, 10:49 PM
#21
One i Have not seen mentioned is tire pressure. This is free or near free if you have to pay for air. Proper tire pressure is key to life of tires and has an effect on handling. Checking once every two weeks when the tires are COLD and in the SHADE will prolong the life of your tires.
04-10-2013, 02:37 PM
#23
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Fluids I'd recommend:
DOT 4 brake fluid for its higher temp capabilities. Make sure when you flush out the old stuff you start at the rear wheels first (passenger side - furthest from the MC) until the stuff comes out clean. Then move to the driver rear, then passenger front and driver front. DO NOT USE DOT 5, it's not compatible with our system and could/will damage seals.
P/S fluid, just about any brand Mercon V will do as long as it has the right SAE rating (check your manual). You can drain from the return side on the Rack and Pinion (R&P).
With the front up on jack stands you can move the wheel left and right a couple of times (Car turned off of course but the key in the 'On' position to keep the lock from engaging) to get as much fluid out of the R&P as you can.
When you refill the PS resivour (after you've reintalled the return line at the R&P), you'll need to again move the wheel left to right with the engine off and the front on jack stands to get some fluid pumped back into the Rack and Pinion.
With the front still up in the air, check your P/S fluid level and top off as necessary. Now, start the car up. It will most likely will sound like hell as fluid works its way back into the rack and pinion and the PS pump. With the car still on jack stands and the engine idling slowly move the steering wheel all the way to one side until you can't go any further, but don't force it. Then move it back until you hit the other limit. Do this a couple of times, the sound should go away which means the system is fully lubricated again. Double check your fluid level and top off as necessary, You should be good to go.
Be sure to check the PS fluid after about a day or two of driving. Any bubbles in the system will work themselves out and require you to topp off the fluid. The first couple of times you start the car up after it's been sittign for a few hours you may get some noise, that's the trapped bubbles working themselves out.
On a side note, both procedures should be done under vacuum as it makes it easier to draw out the old fluid but they can be done the old fashioned way by pumping the brake pedal for the brake fluid through the bleeder screws or draining and refilling for PS fluid as described.
For Spark Plugs:
I'd recommend the Champion Part Number 7989. Single piece, less likely to break than Motorcraft, Autolite, or any other two-piece plug. I've had Champions in my car for over 40K miles with zero problems. Several other people on the forum can attest for them as well.
DOT 4 brake fluid for its higher temp capabilities. Make sure when you flush out the old stuff you start at the rear wheels first (passenger side - furthest from the MC) until the stuff comes out clean. Then move to the driver rear, then passenger front and driver front. DO NOT USE DOT 5, it's not compatible with our system and could/will damage seals.
P/S fluid, just about any brand Mercon V will do as long as it has the right SAE rating (check your manual). You can drain from the return side on the Rack and Pinion (R&P).
With the front up on jack stands you can move the wheel left and right a couple of times (Car turned off of course but the key in the 'On' position to keep the lock from engaging) to get as much fluid out of the R&P as you can.
When you refill the PS resivour (after you've reintalled the return line at the R&P), you'll need to again move the wheel left to right with the engine off and the front on jack stands to get some fluid pumped back into the Rack and Pinion.
With the front still up in the air, check your P/S fluid level and top off as necessary. Now, start the car up. It will most likely will sound like hell as fluid works its way back into the rack and pinion and the PS pump. With the car still on jack stands and the engine idling slowly move the steering wheel all the way to one side until you can't go any further, but don't force it. Then move it back until you hit the other limit. Do this a couple of times, the sound should go away which means the system is fully lubricated again. Double check your fluid level and top off as necessary, You should be good to go.
Be sure to check the PS fluid after about a day or two of driving. Any bubbles in the system will work themselves out and require you to topp off the fluid. The first couple of times you start the car up after it's been sittign for a few hours you may get some noise, that's the trapped bubbles working themselves out.
On a side note, both procedures should be done under vacuum as it makes it easier to draw out the old fluid but they can be done the old fashioned way by pumping the brake pedal for the brake fluid through the bleeder screws or draining and refilling for PS fluid as described.
For Spark Plugs:
I'd recommend the Champion Part Number 7989. Single piece, less likely to break than Motorcraft, Autolite, or any other two-piece plug. I've had Champions in my car for over 40K miles with zero problems. Several other people on the forum can attest for them as well.
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