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Why do I keep breaking wheel studs?
4 Attachment(s)
2013 V6
Wheels: Vorshlag D-Force 18 x 10 Lugs: McGard 06400 - 1/2 Torqued to 85 or 90 ft/lbs, can't remember. Camber - Around 2.3* negative Studs are breaking while driving. I have had these wheels on for about 10 months and have not touched the lugs since originally installing them. I had one stud break on the front right wheel a few months ago, then today I noticed 1 was broken on the front left wheel. Do I have the wrong lug nuts or something? |
Jeremy, I can't see the pics without more "privileges", but we have not had any other reports like this.
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Are you using any kind of spacers?
How do you know what the Torque is on the lugs? Can't tell from the pics but are these hub-centric or lug-centric rims? |
Originally Posted by Derf00
(Post 8234115)
Are you using any kind of spacers?
How do you know what the Torque is on the lugs? Can't tell from the pics but are these hub-centric or lug-centric rims? I installed them with my torque wrench. I am an autocrosser, so I have changed wheels on various cars hundreds of times. Everything seems normal. Hub centric vs lug centric. That's a good question. I am not sure. No vibrations or anything have been felt to indicate that the wheels were not centered. |
Well you shouldn't feel anything with either but a lug centric will flex under hard cornering. That point of breakage is at the stress point.
The Flexing wouldn't be sustained so you may not even notice it. The rears are less likely to flex because they're not being turned (in corners/turns). I would remove all the lug nuts on the front wheels, the wheels, and check out your lugs. I forgot to ask, what kind of offset are the rims? |
Originally Posted by Derf00
(Post 8234130)
Well you shouldn't feel anything with either but a lug centric will flex under hard cornering. That point of breakage is at the stress point.
The Flexing wouldn't be sustained so you may not even notice it. The rears are less likely to flex because they're not being turned (in corners/turns). I would remove all the lug nuts on the front wheels, the wheels, and check out your lugs. I forgot to ask, what kind of offset are the rims? |
hum... offset seems fine.
I'd look to get the info on hubcentric/lugcentric answered. Everything I could find on this brand was talking about hubcentric spacers being used. If it's not that, I'm out of ideas. |
Found this on another forum. I had never seen those things before, so I just left them on. Guess I should remove those things.
Lug nuts are extremly strong in tension and shear. But in lateral stress they tend to break off. Ford wheels are lug centric, as are most aftermarket wheels. From the factory, almost every car I'v ever worked on came with Tinnerman nuts on a couple of the studs at each corner. Factory wheels have a relief behind mounting hole for that nut to sit in. After market wheels do not. That puts the wheel on an uneven keel, and the lugs in lateral tension. http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4006_large.jpg |
Those "nuts" as you call them are from the factory during assembly to assist holding the rotors. They serve no function once off the assembly line and are only known to cause vibration in some aftermarket wheels by not allowing the wheel to sit flush against the rotor. Regardless, they should be removed.
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Originally Posted by Nuke
(Post 8234257)
Those "nuts" as you call them are from the factory during assembly to assist holding the rotors. They serve no function once off the assembly line and are only known to cause vibration in some aftermarket wheels by not allowing the wheel to sit flush against the rotor. Regardless, they should be removed.
I am going to have to bring a couple pizzas with me or something. |
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