Lowering Springs help
#11
I dropped the front of mine an inch with "P" springs and I honestly wouldn't want any more drop. Doesn't need camber bolts or anything special, and it's not so low you fear of it dragging everywhere.
The back definitely needs 1.5-2" of drop though, I did an inch and it needs just a LITTLE more.
The back definitely needs 1.5-2" of drop though, I did an inch and it needs just a LITTLE more.
#12
I want to get a 1.5" drop but been scared because my car runs great now and i dont want to cause any problems....also im scared about what other suspension things i will need, ie: i called AM several times, and some reps say i just need springs, and some say i just need camber botls and springs, and some say i need camber plates, bolts, springs, panhandle bar.... so im scared to jump on it, even though i think it would look really nice
I lowered my 2006 GT 1.5" and my 2011 GT 1.5", and I live on a gravel road! I can imagine that it's unnerving getting mixed signals from different reps. However, this is my advice and I stand by it. DO buy an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end. You'll need it. DO NOT buy camber bolts or plates. A 1.5" drop only increases your negative camber to around -1.7° which improves cornering grip, but doesn't cause crazy tire wear. DO align the car after the drop.
I've owned and worked on several of these S197s, and this is the recipe that I like
Of course, I recommend the springs & panhard bar from www.uprproducts.com
#13
It's very easy. Unbolt your brake lines, sway bars, taking the wheels off makes it much easier, and just let the axle drop. You're gonna have to jack it up and put jackstands somewhere that's not the axle and use your jack to adjust the high of the axle. Once it's all disconnected, let the axle drop and replace! There should be a write up around here somewhere...
#14
I understand your apprehension. Here's my take on it, most companies' lowering springs lower the car around 1.5", so more often than not, if you see an S197 Mustang lowered, it's lowered about 1.5". It doesn't cause any problems at all. Nothing to worry about.
I lowered my 2006 GT 1.5" and my 2011 GT 1.5", and I live on a gravel road! I can imagine that it's unnerving getting mixed signals from different reps. However, this is my advice and I stand by it. DO buy an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end. You'll need it. DO NOT buy camber bolts or plates. A 1.5" drop only increases your negative camber to around -1.7° which improves cornering grip, but doesn't cause crazy tire wear. DO align the car after the drop.
I've owned and worked on several of these S197s, and this is the recipe that I like
Of course, I recommend the springs & panhard bar from www.uprproducts.com
I lowered my 2006 GT 1.5" and my 2011 GT 1.5", and I live on a gravel road! I can imagine that it's unnerving getting mixed signals from different reps. However, this is my advice and I stand by it. DO buy an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end. You'll need it. DO NOT buy camber bolts or plates. A 1.5" drop only increases your negative camber to around -1.7° which improves cornering grip, but doesn't cause crazy tire wear. DO align the car after the drop.
I've owned and worked on several of these S197s, and this is the recipe that I like
Of course, I recommend the springs & panhard bar from www.uprproducts.com
so can the panhard bar be installed while the springs are being installed? I notice they take about an hour to install and considering the springs can take 4 hours and I don't trust myself to do any of the work (i go to a shop), I'm scared its gonna get really pricey! the camber bolts are only like 30 bucks so its cool, I think i will jump for it when i get more money saved up, I'll get the panhard bar, bolts, and springs and If i have any problems afterwards, i shall rage like like crazy!!
so i dont need bumpsteer kits, camber plates, control arm, shocks/struts? Its hard to get a definite answer cuz some people say you don't "need" them, but then others say "its recommended"....so you feel like if you dont get them ur gonna have a crappy ride lol.
Last edited by RazorGT; 12-28-2013 at 09:27 AM.
#15
so can the panhard bar be installed while the springs are being installed? I notice they take about an hour to install and considering the springs can take 4 hours and I don't trust myself to do any of the work (i go to a shop), I'm scared its gonna get really pricey! the camber bolts are only like 30 bucks so its cool, I think i will jump for it when i get more money saved up, I'll get the panhard bar, bolts, and springs and If i have any problems afterwards, i shall rage like like crazy!!
so i dont need bumpsteer kits, camber plates, control arm, shocks/struts? Its hard to get a definite answer cuz some people say you don't "need" them, but then others say "its recommended"....so you feel like if you dont get them ur gonna have a crappy ride lol.
so i dont need bumpsteer kits, camber plates, control arm, shocks/struts? Its hard to get a definite answer cuz some people say you don't "need" them, but then others say "its recommended"....so you feel like if you dont get them ur gonna have a crappy ride lol.
And a monkey could swap the rear springs if that's all you're doing so bringing it to a shop is a complete waste of money. As long as you have basic tools, a hydraulic jack and jack stands you can swap the rear springs.
#16
so can the panhard bar be installed while the springs are being installed? I notice they take about an hour to install and considering the springs can take 4 hours and I don't trust myself to do any of the work (i go to a shop), I'm scared its gonna get really pricey! the camber bolts are only like 30 bucks so its cool, I think i will jump for it when i get more money saved up, I'll get the panhard bar, bolts, and springs and If i have any problems afterwards, i shall rage like like crazy!!
so i dont need bumpsteer kits, camber plates, control arm, shocks/struts? Its hard to get a definite answer cuz some people say you don't "need" them, but then others say "its recommended"....so you feel like if you dont get them ur gonna have a crappy ride lol.
so i dont need bumpsteer kits, camber plates, control arm, shocks/struts? Its hard to get a definite answer cuz some people say you don't "need" them, but then others say "its recommended"....so you feel like if you dont get them ur gonna have a crappy ride lol.
Yes, the panhard bar can be installed at the same time as the springs, although the two installations are not related.
bump steer, caster camber plates, camber bolts, control arms, shocks/struts... none of that stuff is NEEDED for the spring install. Let's be reasonable here, many of those parts will IMPROVE handling, but they aren't required when you install your springs.
I drove around for a year with lowering springs on my stock suspension because I was broke. Then a year later I upgraded everything else. No problem.
#17
OP - If you're only lowering the rear, I recommend the Roush springs. You won't need anything else, because you're not lowering it all that much...basically leveling it out.
I always recommend the Eibach Pro-Kit. It lowers the car nicely, without slamming it....and you won't need any camber bolts or C/C plates. All the cars I've lowered have gone to the alignment racks and been put within tolerance without any problems.
As far as an adjustable pan-hard bar, you're rear axle will shift over towards the driver's side some (1/8"-1/4"), but if you're running stock rims and tires I wouldn't even worry about it...unless it's something that will bother you. If you're running wider aftermarket wheels and tires, I'd definitely recommend installing one. It will be much more noticeable. My favorite adjustable bar is BMR PHR006. I've installed several, and they make centering the rear axle very easy.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=172.
Good luck with everything!
I want to get a 1.5" drop but been scared because my car runs great now and i dont want to cause any problems....also im scared about what other suspension things i will need, ie: i called AM several times, and some reps say i just need springs, and some say i just need camber botls and springs, and some say i need camber plates, bolts, springs, panhandle bar.... so im scared to jump on it, even though i think it would look really nice
As far as an adjustable pan-hard bar, you're rear axle will shift over towards the driver's side some (1/8"-1/4"), but if you're running stock rims and tires I wouldn't even worry about it...unless it's something that will bother you. If you're running wider aftermarket wheels and tires, I'd definitely recommend installing one. It will be much more noticeable. My favorite adjustable bar is BMR PHR006. I've installed several, and they make centering the rear axle very easy.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=172.
Good luck with everything!
#18
i did the Roush 1" lowering springs, originally on dropped 3/4" but settled to about 1". it definetly moved the car offcenter, used an adj. panhard to center rear. i also put on LCAs made by CHE. car handles better, no more wheel hop and little more NVH. my rear moved about 1/2" to the drivers side and with my rear tires being 285/40/18's was very noticeable hence the need for adj. panhard bar. did not want to fool with the front end, my front splitter drags enough without dropping the front.
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