califsp

Third, leave the rear speakers alone.

RetiredSFC 97

Yeah I know about the adapters. I called my local Ford dealer and they told me the adapters are on back order until 02/24. They are 14 and some change here. Autonation I think has them for around 12 bucks and I found some on line for 18 shipped. I'll wait until next week and see if I can get them from my Ford dealer and pick them up, they said there would be no shipping charges if I picked them up. But we have tax at almost 9%. If they are still on back order I'll just get them on line for a couple bucks more.

Thanks for your help. And thanks to everyone else for their suggestions. I've been pulling my hair out trying to get a nice system with as little cost as possible.

FWIW, in my Dodge Ram and my vette I have the Alpine 126BT, with the KTP 445 power pack, and the GTO 938 (in boxes) and GTO 638, in the vette, and the Dodge has the same except I have the GTO 928 and GTO 528's.

RetiredSFC 97

I just wrote a 4 paragraph post explaining what I did to my system. Then as I was about to post it I was kicked out and said I was not signed in.

This the 4th time in the past week this has happened to me. So I'm done. Screw it.

I also had some tutorial stuff thrown in that I learned. Oh well, I did post a question about this in the appropriate place as well.

Chromeshadow

This is what I had in my 2012 Shaker 500, nothing can make them sound good, inho.
Wow, that sucks! I would like to read the whole post, I write long posts in Word or open office then cut and paste here.

jz78817

what does weight have to do with anything? I don't buy speakers by the pound. that speaker uses a rare earth (neodymium) magnet which is significantly more powerful than the ceramic ferrite magnets typically used. The magnet needs to be like 1/8th the size for the same performance.

I've measured that particular speaker, BTW. the only real problem with it is the tweeter output is low. other than that it kicks the crap out of most aftermarket 5x7" speakers I've tried; it has lower distortion and better frequency response.

RetiredSFC 97

Just did it again. I tried to post what I did and it acted like I wasn't signed in. Forgot to copy it in case it kicked me out. Oh well.

I tried to do a thread this morning on exactly what I did with some useful information and same thing happened.

Posted a question in the help section to see what I may be doing wrong. At some point I will post what I did, but I'm frustrated right now.

Chromeshadow

I do purchase speakers by the pound. A flimsy stamped metal frame will warp over time and temp, and cheap paper cones don't have good high freq response. Factory speakers are rated at 40W, which is an indication of limited cone travel and the inability to handle higher peaks. I don't think you can purchase a 40W 6x8 from any reputable Car speaker manufacturer.
I replaced mine with some 200W Pioneer triax and noticed a big improvement in sound, and Pioneer speakers don't always set the bar very high. And as you mentioned, you'll never get good high freqs out of the factory speakers.

jon6230775

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...ub-wiring.html

jz78817

steel doesn't work like that.

no cone that size will have good high frequency response. it's a matter of physics. once the wavelength of the sound you're trying to make it reproduce gets smaller than the radius of the cone, the cone experiences "break up" modes which means its response gets ragged and peaky. Paper cones are actually better because they have high internal damping and respond well to treatments to control that break up. Downside is they're not water resistant unless coated.

no, it's an indication of how much power the speaker can handle for long periods of time without being damaged.

The power ratings you see on aftermarket speakers are absolute, 100%, unmitigated BS. As an example, I've looked over a supposedly awesome aftermarket component set from a well-known speaker manufacturer. The marketing literature proudly stated that the woofer was rated for 60 watts RMS, and was rated for use from 40 Hz to 5 kHz. I thought it was funny that it was farting out 80% THD at 50 Hz at only 16 watts. Even worse, the intermodulation distortion was horrific; female vocals warbled horribly if there was any bass playing at the same time.

sparkly cones, cast titanium frames, and amusing ad copy don't do any good when the speaker fails at being a decent speaker.

No, I said that particular speaker has low output from its tweeter. I didn't say anything about other factory speakers.

look, most factory speakers (from everybody) are junk. There are some which aren't and I can tell you why they aren't. Most aftermarket speakers are junk, but they're pretty. I'm sure some aren't junk, I just haven't found them yet.

Chromeshadow

Are you saying that I can run the 40 W factory sub with my Sony amps, same as my Shelby subs?
Here is a link to Triax speakers, they actually have a tweeter built in to give them excellent high freq response.
http://www.autos.com/aftermarket-par...axial-speakers
BTW, most good amps and speakers are tested with an Audio Precision system http://www.ap.com/

Not sure what you are using, but I am very familiar with the AP and the numbers it give you are not BS.
BTW ,woofers are not rated out to 5KHz and are not 60W. Shelby Kickers are 20Hz to 200Hz and rated at 200W.
I cal you out as complete BS!