Install headers myself or pay for it?
#11
Well, I think I'm going to try this myself. Thanks for the link Shane, I've been using AMs writeups quite frequently the last few weeks (break lines, clutch line, suspension). Now I just need BAMA to send me a new tune and a free weekend. I'll make sure to post up how it goes.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#12
I used jackstands. It's not a very hard job at all. It's just very tedious getting some of the bolts. The starter made me hate life. The biggest PITA is bolting up the longtubes...they are completely in the way. I could find absolutely no way to torque so good-n-tight was the way to go. WEAR GLOVES-cannot stress this enough! I printed out and used the AM instructions. Follow each step and you'll be fine.
#13
I used jackstands. It's not a very hard job at all. It's just very tedious getting some of the bolts. The starter made me hate life. The biggest PITA is bolting up the longtubes...they are completely in the way. I could find absolutely no way to torque so good-n-tight was the way to go. WEAR GLOVES-cannot stress this enough! I printed out and used the AM instructions. Follow each step and you'll be fine.
#14
I just got done with this project yesterday. I did Kooks long tubes and xpipe setup. It took a friend and I 11 hours (we took 2 breaks). Make sure you wrap the starter with heat wrap since the header collector will be right next to it on the passenger side. They make one specific to our cars on jeggs.com. The starter has bolts for the electrical connection as well as 3 bolts that hold it to the engine housing. You will work it from underneath. When reinstalling it be sure you start with the bolt furthest away from you and work your way down. Headers will install from the bottom, not the top as with some cars. Also be careful when jacking up the engine to remove the motor mounts, the pressure is enough to damage the oil pan. The major issue we ran into was the driver side connector from the header to the midpipe. The bolt would not break free. I just took an electric saw and cut the exhaust pipe to get it out. Protect your stock catalytic convertors, I know a guy that will pay $80 for a set. It only cost $20 to ship it to him. Also the kooks directions said there were 3 bolts to remove on the steering column. I only had to remove 2. One was under the dash and one was by the drivers motor mount. Be sure to rematch the wheel and steering column the exact way it was before you took it apart. Let me know if you have any other questions. Bottom line is that its doable and save your $500 to get new gears or a tuner.
#15
Two must have items..
Gloves or you will bleed out!!
13mm flexhead ratcheting box wrench.
Those two items will keep you alive and save hours of frustration. Also helps to have all kinds of exstentions for your sockets. Get the car as high as possible. Realize the steering shaft bolt is welded on there...so you gotta loosen it from the top. Having an impact will help but is not a must have.
I did mine with two buddies helping 4 years ago. Took us all weekend but we were not rushing at all and had crappy instructions, so we had to figure it out. You can do it in a day and you will earn your man card by doing it yourselves. Good luck and have fun.
Gloves or you will bleed out!!
13mm flexhead ratcheting box wrench.
Those two items will keep you alive and save hours of frustration. Also helps to have all kinds of exstentions for your sockets. Get the car as high as possible. Realize the steering shaft bolt is welded on there...so you gotta loosen it from the top. Having an impact will help but is not a must have.
I did mine with two buddies helping 4 years ago. Took us all weekend but we were not rushing at all and had crappy instructions, so we had to figure it out. You can do it in a day and you will earn your man card by doing it yourselves. Good luck and have fun.
#16
I used jackstands. It's not a very hard job at all. It's just very tedious getting some of the bolts. The starter made me hate life. The biggest PITA is bolting up the longtubes...they are completely in the way. I could find absolutely no way to torque so good-n-tight was the way to go. WEAR GLOVES-cannot stress this enough! I printed out and used the AM instructions. Follow each step and you'll be fine.
BTW only midlength headers like MAC, Kooks and Pypes will put the collector next to the starter. I just have one primary about 2" away from my starter, never worried me. I did wrap one of the cables with a little heat insulation because it was pretty close to one of the primaries.
Also bolting them up is tight, but not bad. Gotta squeeze your hand in a few places. I had the hardest time with the two top rear driver's side bolts...the AC lines run through there, plus the master cylinder being in that area, there's precious little room to get your hand in to put the bolts in and to tighten them.
808: Which steering shaft bolt are you saying is welded on? Mine were loctited but nothing was welded.
BTW, I forgot to post it earlier but read this:
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...rochamber.html
And use his method for removing the steering shaft, you can get it out in 10 minutes that way.
#18
Well, I think I'm going to try this myself. Thanks for the link Shane, I've been using AMs writeups quite frequently the last few weeks (break lines, clutch line, suspension). Now I just need BAMA to send me a new tune and a free weekend. I'll make sure to post up how it goes.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
If you need any other assistance or have questions, just give me a shout!
Shane
#19
Ah, true...but I've experienced that with every starter I've ever taken out of a vehicle. You'd think they could come up with an easier way to mount those.