Killercoyote

Hello everyone I'm looking for some info on my 2011 I owned since new never had any problems with car. I been trying to get an inspection for my car and car doesn't want to pass inspection.check engine light was on but was cleared car was driven for about 100 miles go bike to shop 2 days later while driving to shop engine light comes on we scan car it say in bank 1 system to lean or rich then it says heater curkit below that on scanner about catiylist converter don't no what can cause this never had this problem car always passed every year. All 3 fuel trims on scanner are at 28

edwin108

Which fuel trims, short term or long term? There should be four - short and long term for banks 1 and 2.

jz78817

the heater circuit is in the O2 sensors. if an O2 sensor is failed or there's a break in the electrical circuit connecting to it that might cause your problem. believe it or not, there's a known thing about rodents chewing on the wiring to the O2 sensors; something about the high temperature insulation is attractive to them.

Killercoyote

In all fuel trims it's high

Boss intake ,vortec blower injecters ,x pipe roush mufflers

I never had this problem before car always passed inspection this just started to happen someone said they think I have an intake leak but car runs fine

Ok sorry bud

Long term trims are at 28 short term where at 0

It idles around 600 to 700 nice and steady I used carb cleaner on all the rubber lines supercharger couplings piping don't see a change of idle anywhere also sprayed lower part of intake by injectors no idle change

Can it be intake leak and see no change

I also noticed when I step on car my auto meter wide band is off it use to read 11.2 to 11.3 on the wood now it's reading 13.5 something is going wrong for sure this car was on put with too for 3 years in a row car was tuned by JPC racing in Maryland

I went to get inspection an hour ago and check engine light hasn't been on for two days I drove car for 180 miles and still doesn't pass monitors are still staying o2s not ready,heat circuit not ready,cats not ready,and egr not ready don't no what else to do they told me to keep driving it I don't thing that's going to fix it also high side fuel trims are at 28%

Yes have intercooler checked clamps everything tight

So I drove the car for the past hour and I put 150 miles on it since yesterday to today and now check engine light came back on

Yes I have 65 lbs injectors stock fuel pump with Kenny bell boosta pump

Car was done 3 years ago with blower setup and injectors she was running good till this last week

Car has small exhaust leak but it's under the car by x pipe in middle of car area will fix tomorrow

Yes I only stepped on it once at wot to see my wide band gauge that's when I seen it was lean

Can a bad o2 sensor give these problems at wot

The car idles prefect on idle my wide band reads 13.8 to 14.2 on idle

I have fuel pressure gauge in car since it was tuned 3 years ago and fuel pressure is in the same pressure it was since it's been tuned which is 55 lbs

Check engine light came back on says bank 1 sensor 1 to lean or to rich also came up again heater circuit and cats and egr

Says egr not ready,o2 sensors not ready heater circuit not ready and cats not ready

Could it be just that the o2 is bad and giving all this problems

K will post now

Right now on my sct x3 only came up p0174 system to lean (b2)

Earlier at the inspection place it was coming up bank 1 now came up bank 2 I changed bank 2 sensor last year it went bad car didn't even want to run

Yes I have multimeter

Didn't change any fuse does it have

All fuses under hood are good just checked

Fuse for bap is good

But fuel pressure is the same since day 1

Right now on idle it's at 55

I gave it a quick wack like half wot jumped over 60

Don't want to open wot that's not good for it I think

Simon1

Are there any mods to your car?

jz78817

bit of friendly advice; when you have a question about something like this it's helpful to tell us your mods right up front. Here I was assuming your car was stock.

moosestang

You could have an intake leak and the car still run fine. I would check all the rubber couplers for the blower, basically anywhere after the MAF meter where air could get in.

edwin108

Was this at idle? If so, I would check for vacuum leaks. Try spraying some brake cleaner around all vacuum hoses and ports and listen for the idle to change.

edwin108

Did you spray the other vacuum lines, like the one going to the brake booster, PCV, etc?

Killercoyote

Yes I did everything good on those vacuum lines