65k Maintenance
#1
65k Maintenance
Hi All, I have a 2007 GT that's about to hit 65k. I know I need to do some maintenance here, but I am on a very tight budget. What's the least I can get away with?
- It definitely needs an oil change, as per every 5k.
- Spark Plugs and Transmission flush (manual) were both done at 60k.
I know some people say to do the power steering fluid, and brake fluid, and rear differential, but I really can't afford any of these things right now. Can these fluid swaps wait another 10k or so?
Also, I have been using reg oil for every single oil change since day 1. For some reason I just didn't think about it. At 60k, I finally flipped through the manual and realized I should have been using synthetic. So I used synthetic for the 60k one. Should I keep using synthetic, or just go with regular oil?
Thanks guys!
- It definitely needs an oil change, as per every 5k.
- Spark Plugs and Transmission flush (manual) were both done at 60k.
I know some people say to do the power steering fluid, and brake fluid, and rear differential, but I really can't afford any of these things right now. Can these fluid swaps wait another 10k or so?
Also, I have been using reg oil for every single oil change since day 1. For some reason I just didn't think about it. At 60k, I finally flipped through the manual and realized I should have been using synthetic. So I used synthetic for the 60k one. Should I keep using synthetic, or just go with regular oil?
Thanks guys!
#2
Power steering you can get topped off for free at an oil shop during your oil change (or should be able to at any good oil shop. 1L).
Brake fluid you obviously want to keep up to level and shouldn't be terribly expensive, so that's the small stuff outo f the way.
The differentials I believe for mustangs you want serviced every 48k and I'm guessing the previous owner didn't do that one. I believe the mustang just has a rear differential so you're looking at roughly $100 for that service, and not having it wait would be preferable if you want to floor the vehicle every now and then.
As for oil use synthetic oil from now on and hope that regular oil hasn't hurt your high performance machine too much. (It may have caused some sort of damage as synthetic fluids have more additives in them for protection for a reason). Only down side is that the oil change for synthetic fluid is bumped up atleast $40 every time from a standard oil package which consists of conventional oil.
Brake fluid you obviously want to keep up to level and shouldn't be terribly expensive, so that's the small stuff outo f the way.
The differentials I believe for mustangs you want serviced every 48k and I'm guessing the previous owner didn't do that one. I believe the mustang just has a rear differential so you're looking at roughly $100 for that service, and not having it wait would be preferable if you want to floor the vehicle every now and then.
As for oil use synthetic oil from now on and hope that regular oil hasn't hurt your high performance machine too much. (It may have caused some sort of damage as synthetic fluids have more additives in them for protection for a reason). Only down side is that the oil change for synthetic fluid is bumped up atleast $40 every time from a standard oil package which consists of conventional oil.
#3
With all due respect to the poster above, he doesn't seem to know much of what he's talking about.
Yes those services can wait. Your brake fluid can wait until you do your next brake job, add in a flush. It's probably around $75. Rear diff fluid will be around $100.
Power steering fluid or brake fluid or anything being topped off indicates there's a leak in the system. Those levels should always be in between the lines and there's no consumption so if it's low it's because there's a leak. No harm, you can top it off but that isn't the same as flushing it, which isn't that necessary yet.
Since you've gone to synthetic you pretty much need to run synthetic from now on. It's better, but conventional oil didn't do any damage to your motor. Also, if you DIY, synthetic isn't much more expensive.
Fuel filter could be a nice and easy DIY swap if it hasn't been done for $15.
Yes those services can wait. Your brake fluid can wait until you do your next brake job, add in a flush. It's probably around $75. Rear diff fluid will be around $100.
Power steering fluid or brake fluid or anything being topped off indicates there's a leak in the system. Those levels should always be in between the lines and there's no consumption so if it's low it's because there's a leak. No harm, you can top it off but that isn't the same as flushing it, which isn't that necessary yet.
Since you've gone to synthetic you pretty much need to run synthetic from now on. It's better, but conventional oil didn't do any damage to your motor. Also, if you DIY, synthetic isn't much more expensive.
Fuel filter could be a nice and easy DIY swap if it hasn't been done for $15.
#4
With all due respect to the poster above, he doesn't seem to know much of what he's talking about.
Yes those services can wait. Your brake fluid can wait until you do your next brake job, add in a flush. It's probably around $75. Rear diff fluid will be around $100.
Power steering fluid or brake fluid or anything being topped off indicates there's a leak in the system. Those levels should always be in between the lines and there's no consumption so if it's low it's because there's a leak. No harm, you can top it off but that isn't the same as flushing it, which isn't that necessary yet.
Since you've gone to synthetic you pretty much need to run synthetic from now on. It's better, but conventional oil didn't do any damage to your motor. Also, if you DIY, synthetic isn't much more expensive.
Fuel filter could be a nice and easy DIY swap if it hasn't been done for $15.
Yes those services can wait. Your brake fluid can wait until you do your next brake job, add in a flush. It's probably around $75. Rear diff fluid will be around $100.
Power steering fluid or brake fluid or anything being topped off indicates there's a leak in the system. Those levels should always be in between the lines and there's no consumption so if it's low it's because there's a leak. No harm, you can top it off but that isn't the same as flushing it, which isn't that necessary yet.
Since you've gone to synthetic you pretty much need to run synthetic from now on. It's better, but conventional oil didn't do any damage to your motor. Also, if you DIY, synthetic isn't much more expensive.
Fuel filter could be a nice and easy DIY swap if it hasn't been done for $15.
Just one more question. With regular I was doing the oil change and filter change every 5k. With synthetic can I go longer between changes?
#5
Yeah, Do a search on here or on google for oil change intervals and everything should say the intervals are longer for full synthetics.
This should help: http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...-your-oil.html
...well the article kinda helps lol. Its not 100% about synthetics but it should help.
This should help: http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...-your-oil.html
...well the article kinda helps lol. Its not 100% about synthetics but it should help.
Last edited by 99GTvert; 07-13-2014 at 10:48 PM.
#6
#7
Yeah, Do a search on here or on google for oil change intervals and everything should say the intervals are longer for full synthetics.
This should help: http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...-your-oil.html
...well the article kinda helps lol. Its not 100% about synthetics but it should help.
This should help: http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...-your-oil.html
...well the article kinda helps lol. Its not 100% about synthetics but it should help.
I'm not sure I want to push the 10k mark like the article is suggesting, but it sounds like I can safely do 6k - 7k without any risk to the engine. Especially since I put in synthetic on the last one.
#8
This thread has to be right up there in giving bad advice.
From the 2007 Owner's Guide, page 246:
--Ford design rear axles contain a synthetic lubricant that does not require changing unless the axle has been submerged in water. (The Scheduled Maintenance Guide says to change every 150,000 miles, but has exceptions to this.)
--Use of synthetic or synthetic blend motor oil is not mandatory.
As to brake fluid and power steering fluid, I don't find any recommendations. A lot of people say to flush the brake system at least every two years, since the fluid is hygroscopic and thus absorbs water. Opinions on power steering fluid vary widely. Changing the fluid every 60k or so seems to be somewhat common. Remove a couple of drops of the power steering fluid periodically (you can use an eye dropper) and put the drops on a white paper towel. See if the fluid is pink, with no particles in it.
From the 2007 Owner's Guide, page 246:
--Ford design rear axles contain a synthetic lubricant that does not require changing unless the axle has been submerged in water. (The Scheduled Maintenance Guide says to change every 150,000 miles, but has exceptions to this.)
--Use of synthetic or synthetic blend motor oil is not mandatory.
As to brake fluid and power steering fluid, I don't find any recommendations. A lot of people say to flush the brake system at least every two years, since the fluid is hygroscopic and thus absorbs water. Opinions on power steering fluid vary widely. Changing the fluid every 60k or so seems to be somewhat common. Remove a couple of drops of the power steering fluid periodically (you can use an eye dropper) and put the drops on a white paper towel. See if the fluid is pink, with no particles in it.
#9
With all due respect to the poster above, he doesn't seem to know much of what he's talking about....
Power steering fluid or brake fluid or anything being topped off indicates there's a leak in the system. Those levels should always be in between the lines and there's no consumption so if it's low it's because there's a leak. No harm, you can top it off but that isn't the same as flushing it, which isn't that necessary yet.
.
Power steering fluid or brake fluid or anything being topped off indicates there's a leak in the system. Those levels should always be in between the lines and there's no consumption so if it's low it's because there's a leak. No harm, you can top it off but that isn't the same as flushing it, which isn't that necessary yet.
.
Brake fluid drops in level without a leak in the system. As your pads wear, the piston in each caliper sticks further out. This drops the level in the reservoir. When you replace your pads and the calipers get reset, the fluid level in the reservoir goes back up.
Also, there will be some evaporation in our cooling system because of the reservoir, especially in hot climates. Oil gets burned through the regular process of combustion or minor blow-by so it too is normal to sometimes add oil between oil changes.
A 2007 has fluids in it that are at least 7 years old. Yes, it is necessary to flush all the fluids. Age and use will determine how frequently they should be. In general:
Most chemicals break down after so many heat cycles which is why it's important to change the fluids, even if the system doesn't have a leak or have direct access to moisture.
* Brake fluid 2-3 yrs or 24-36K - Heat and moisture break down the fluid.
* P/S fluid 3 yrs or 36K - Heat, moisture and grime introduced from gears wearing break down the fluid.
* Oil, really depends on the type you use but generally 5-7.5K (or even 10k but I don't go that long)
* Diff - 4 years/48K - grime (from clutch plates), heat and moisture (from the vent hole) break down the fluid
* Radiator 5 yrs/60K (although OEM says 100K)
* Auto tranny fluid 3 yrs/30K - Heat kills the fluid and grime also exponentially wears out the components. Grime from the clutch bands that rely on the fluid providing a slip differential.
* Manual tranny 5-6 yrs or 60-75K. Same as above but is more resistant to heat and there is no grime introduced from wearing of clutch bands like in the Auto.
#10
This thread has to be right up there in giving bad advice.
From the 2007 Owner's Guide, page 246:
--Ford design rear axles contain a synthetic lubricant that does not require changing unless the axle has been submerged in water. (The Scheduled Maintenance Guide says to change every 150,000 miles, but has exceptions to this.)
--Use of synthetic or synthetic blend motor oil is not mandatory.
As to brake fluid and power steering fluid, I don't find any recommendations. A lot of people say to flush the brake system at least every two years, since the fluid is hygroscopic and thus absorbs water. Opinions on power steering fluid vary widely. Changing the fluid every 60k or so seems to be somewhat common. Remove a couple of drops of the power steering fluid periodically (you can use an eye dropper) and put the drops on a white paper towel. See if the fluid is pink, with no particles in it.
From the 2007 Owner's Guide, page 246:
--Ford design rear axles contain a synthetic lubricant that does not require changing unless the axle has been submerged in water. (The Scheduled Maintenance Guide says to change every 150,000 miles, but has exceptions to this.)
--Use of synthetic or synthetic blend motor oil is not mandatory.
As to brake fluid and power steering fluid, I don't find any recommendations. A lot of people say to flush the brake system at least every two years, since the fluid is hygroscopic and thus absorbs water. Opinions on power steering fluid vary widely. Changing the fluid every 60k or so seems to be somewhat common. Remove a couple of drops of the power steering fluid periodically (you can use an eye dropper) and put the drops on a white paper towel. See if the fluid is pink, with no particles in it.
A change in color is usually indicative that damage is already occurring in the system. The exceptions are engine oil. That will discolor fairly rapidly because of the combustion byproducts that work their way into the oil fairly quickly.