Fuse #22 keeps dying
01-11-2015, 01:34 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 41
Fuse #22 keeps dying
Fuse #22 keeps dying each month which controls park lamps, license plate and rear illumination. When braking the center led's light up but that is all.
Do I need load resistors installed for the license plate led's that I installed.
I have no hyper flashing or error msg's just a fuse randomly dies.
Do I need load resistors installed for the license plate led's that I installed.
I have no hyper flashing or error msg's just a fuse randomly dies.
01-12-2015, 07:00 PM
#4
LEDs wouldn't cause a power surge, unless they are shorting out. Also, load resistors are only needed to correct hyperflashing if you install LEDs in the front turn signals. Check all of the wires going to the bulbs on that circuit to see if any are nicked/frayed and possibly shorting to ground.
01-18-2015, 10:04 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 41
Update: Made an observation... I removed the left side led screws from the clear plastic housing license plate and they look new. Then took the right side screws and they look rusty brown discolored on the heads probably due to electricity/heat contact somehow but am not sure how they are making contact with any electrical contacts and maybe that is where the short could be coming from? So I will install plastic screws might fix the issue?
Last edited by blmustang01; 01-18-2015 at 10:27 PM.
01-19-2015, 05:13 AM
#8
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 48
Have you installed stock incandescent lamps to see if there is still a problem?
Unless your '13 is different (by a lot) than my '12, those screws have nothing to do with the circuit or any continuity; "electricity/heat contact" wont cause corrosion, but as an aside corrosion SHOULD be taken care of whenever possible or it'll spread.
If the screws were part of the circuit, replacing them with plastic would eliminate any continuity that was supposed to be there in the first place and something or other would stop working.
Since the LEDs should reduce the load on your wires, if the fuse is blowing with them (And not with the incandescents), it's likely that either a wire got pinched and is making an intermittent short or there is a problem with one of your LEDs. It's possible that if one was installed incorrectly at one point that it caused a breakdown in one of the LEDs that is allowing it to function like a zener diode...or, just has an internal short. A pinched wire seems unlikely as there's no serious potential in the area for a pinch...doesn't mean it couldnt happen, though.
The fuse blowing seems so intermittent, though...First step I'd make is to switch back to standard bulbs or another set of LEDs if you have them and see if it blows again next month-ish.
Unless your '13 is different (by a lot) than my '12, those screws have nothing to do with the circuit or any continuity; "electricity/heat contact" wont cause corrosion, but as an aside corrosion SHOULD be taken care of whenever possible or it'll spread.
If the screws were part of the circuit, replacing them with plastic would eliminate any continuity that was supposed to be there in the first place and something or other would stop working.
Since the LEDs should reduce the load on your wires, if the fuse is blowing with them (And not with the incandescents), it's likely that either a wire got pinched and is making an intermittent short or there is a problem with one of your LEDs. It's possible that if one was installed incorrectly at one point that it caused a breakdown in one of the LEDs that is allowing it to function like a zener diode...or, just has an internal short. A pinched wire seems unlikely as there's no serious potential in the area for a pinch...doesn't mean it couldnt happen, though.
The fuse blowing seems so intermittent, though...First step I'd make is to switch back to standard bulbs or another set of LEDs if you have them and see if it blows again next month-ish.
01-19-2015, 10:29 AM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 288
put back the old incandescent license plate lights. cheap leds will short circuit when they trap water in them, especially if they aren't made to be used outside the car.
don't take this the wrong way, but you might want to keep your car stock for a while until you learn a bit more about auto electrical.
don't take this the wrong way, but you might want to keep your car stock for a while until you learn a bit more about auto electrical.
01-21-2015, 06:01 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 41
Have you installed stock incandescent lamps to see if there is still a problem?
Unless your '13 is different (by a lot) than my '12, those screws have nothing to do with the circuit or any continuity; "electricity/heat contact" wont cause corrosion, but as an aside corrosion SHOULD be taken care of whenever possible or it'll spread.
If the screws were part of the circuit, replacing them with plastic would eliminate any continuity that was supposed to be there in the first place and something or other would stop working.
Since the LEDs should reduce the load on your wires, if the fuse is blowing with them (And not with the incandescents), it's likely that either a wire got pinched and is making an intermittent short or there is a problem with one of your LEDs. It's possible that if one was installed incorrectly at one point that it caused a breakdown in one of the LEDs that is allowing it to function like a zener diode...or, just has an internal short. A pinched wire seems unlikely as there's no serious potential in the area for a pinch...doesn't mean it couldnt happen, though.
The fuse blowing seems so intermittent, though...First step I'd make is to switch back to standard bulbs or another set of LEDs if you have them and see if it blows again next month-ish.
Unless your '13 is different (by a lot) than my '12, those screws have nothing to do with the circuit or any continuity; "electricity/heat contact" wont cause corrosion, but as an aside corrosion SHOULD be taken care of whenever possible or it'll spread.
If the screws were part of the circuit, replacing them with plastic would eliminate any continuity that was supposed to be there in the first place and something or other would stop working.
Since the LEDs should reduce the load on your wires, if the fuse is blowing with them (And not with the incandescents), it's likely that either a wire got pinched and is making an intermittent short or there is a problem with one of your LEDs. It's possible that if one was installed incorrectly at one point that it caused a breakdown in one of the LEDs that is allowing it to function like a zener diode...or, just has an internal short. A pinched wire seems unlikely as there's no serious potential in the area for a pinch...doesn't mean it couldnt happen, though.
The fuse blowing seems so intermittent, though...First step I'd make is to switch back to standard bulbs or another set of LEDs if you have them and see if it blows again next month-ish.
put back the old incandescent license plate lights. cheap leds will short circuit when they trap water in them, especially if they aren't made to be used outside the car.
don't take this the wrong way, but you might want to keep your car stock for a while until you learn a bit more about auto electrical.
don't take this the wrong way, but you might want to keep your car stock for a while until you learn a bit more about auto electrical.
The fuse has not blown out yet but will give it a couple more weeks to a month. I've had 2 fuses blow right at first ignition start up and then the next is fine for a while.