2006 mustang gt transmission fluid
02-04-2016, 10:13 PM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 21
Unless you wanna re-build your trans, be VERY careful when messing with it (been there, done that, no fun).
Read your owner's manual. Mine says trans service is required at 150,000 miles. Mine was acting up a little at 130,000 so I had the trans service done and I'm glad i did.
i went to the dealer (to be sure I got the factory and correct parts) and got a filter and pan gasket. Confirmed that there was no additive required. Cost about $50. Went to a parts place and got 7 quarts of Motorcraft Mercon V (about $11 / quart). Took all the stuff to an independent mechanic, told him I ONLY wanted a filter change and watched him while he did it. He replaced the filter, pan gasket and fluid lost during the process (about 5 quarts). Trans runs fine now, although I get an occasional hiccup at low speeds which may be normal or needing a program re-set.
I would stress to you NOT to do a flush. Do ONLY the minimum first. You can always do more later if you want. You do TO MUCH to the trans. and you'll end up with slipping and a re-build. A trans. builder explained to me that the transmission has worn bands. If you add all new fluid, the new fluid has new detergents and lubricants that cause the worn bands to slip. The trick is to replenish the filter and a small amount of fluid and let well enough alone.
Good luck. please post what you finally do and the results.
Read your owner's manual. Mine says trans service is required at 150,000 miles. Mine was acting up a little at 130,000 so I had the trans service done and I'm glad i did.
i went to the dealer (to be sure I got the factory and correct parts) and got a filter and pan gasket. Confirmed that there was no additive required. Cost about $50. Went to a parts place and got 7 quarts of Motorcraft Mercon V (about $11 / quart). Took all the stuff to an independent mechanic, told him I ONLY wanted a filter change and watched him while he did it. He replaced the filter, pan gasket and fluid lost during the process (about 5 quarts). Trans runs fine now, although I get an occasional hiccup at low speeds which may be normal or needing a program re-set.
I would stress to you NOT to do a flush. Do ONLY the minimum first. You can always do more later if you want. You do TO MUCH to the trans. and you'll end up with slipping and a re-build. A trans. builder explained to me that the transmission has worn bands. If you add all new fluid, the new fluid has new detergents and lubricants that cause the worn bands to slip. The trick is to replenish the filter and a small amount of fluid and let well enough alone.
Good luck. please post what you finally do and the results.
02-04-2016, 10:22 PM
#12
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 21
By the way, you must check the final fluid level with the engine warmed up and running, that's why I had a mechanic with a lift do mine.
As far as the differential fluid is concerned: If you have one with synthetic fluid in it, my info says do not even check it. Just leave it alone 'cause it's a sealed for life unit. I'm gonna take their advice and leave mine alone. I'd be afraid that it would leak fluid out that I'd not be able to get back in. (?!)
Personally I think this "sealed for life" stuff is crap, but if they designed it that way I pay attention. Already cost a ton for a re-build trans when I didn't play their game.
If you have a car with miles on it, I'd pay CLOSE attention to their instructions.
As far as the differential fluid is concerned: If you have one with synthetic fluid in it, my info says do not even check it. Just leave it alone 'cause it's a sealed for life unit. I'm gonna take their advice and leave mine alone. I'd be afraid that it would leak fluid out that I'd not be able to get back in. (?!)
Personally I think this "sealed for life" stuff is crap, but if they designed it that way I pay attention. Already cost a ton for a re-build trans when I didn't play their game.
If you have a car with miles on it, I'd pay CLOSE attention to their instructions.
02-05-2016, 04:59 AM
#15
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 21
02-05-2016, 06:56 AM
#17
Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Michigan again!
Posts: 8,579
No that is not normal and not a reset. It suggests that you are low on fluid still. With the way you described the process that is possible. To really fill it not only do you have the engine running and the car warmed up, but you need the car in gear while you add fluid (one more reason for a lift).
02-05-2016, 10:27 AM
#18
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
The auto tranny in these cars are supposed to have a fluid swap every 30K miles...120K umm, your misreading that or not reading the right thing (Manual tranny recommendation perhaps).
By simply dropping the pan and replacing the fluid drained you are only getting about half the old stuff out. To properly do it you MUST either drain the converter when you drop the pan or pump the new fluid through the tranny to flush the old stuff out. This takes about 10-12 quarts IIRC.
The converter drain with the pan drop gets about 8 quarts out.
A hiccup when shifting is not normal. Check and top off the fluid as JimC stated. To get an accurate reading you need to be on a level surface and the flud needs to be warm (it expands when warm). This means you will need to put all four wheels on jack-stands/ramps.
Also, there is no 'regenration' of tranny fluid. As it ages it loses shear strength so it becomes useless. The machine they were probably using was pumping new fluid in and capturing the old fluid that was being pushed out.
Similar to this unit with the covers removed.
I've worked on mine (valve body upgrade and shift kit installation with a solenoid replacement) and learned a lot about these particular transmissions from research and my own experience.
By simply dropping the pan and replacing the fluid drained you are only getting about half the old stuff out. To properly do it you MUST either drain the converter when you drop the pan or pump the new fluid through the tranny to flush the old stuff out. This takes about 10-12 quarts IIRC.
The converter drain with the pan drop gets about 8 quarts out.
A hiccup when shifting is not normal. Check and top off the fluid as JimC stated. To get an accurate reading you need to be on a level surface and the flud needs to be warm (it expands when warm). This means you will need to put all four wheels on jack-stands/ramps.
Also, there is no 'regenration' of tranny fluid. As it ages it loses shear strength so it becomes useless. The machine they were probably using was pumping new fluid in and capturing the old fluid that was being pushed out.
Similar to this unit with the covers removed.
I've worked on mine (valve body upgrade and shift kit installation with a solenoid replacement) and learned a lot about these particular transmissions from research and my own experience.
Last edited by Derf00; 02-05-2016 at 10:29 AM.
02-05-2016, 10:43 AM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 225
Yeah we had the Valvoline machine at the shop i worked for. It has new fluid in a tank and it exchanges it one quart out one new in. This can be hard on the transmission as it induces extra line pressure to do the exchange. It also can stir up the particles trapped in the filter. I have also seen less informed techs run it backwards which pushes everything out of the filter in to the pan. I personally don't like to flush for those reasons. But I personally don't like autos in general they are way to finicky. I would recommend the pan drop filter change method as suggested and if it concerns you you can have the fluid changed again after a few thousand if its overdue to make sure you get mostly new fluid in. You will never get all the old fluid out no matter which method you use. Also idk what the manual says but personally 30-50k miles is my limit between flushes they just seem to hold up longer that way and more frequent changes if it sits a lot all fluids have a finite life they breakdown whether you drive it or not and lose some of their lubricating properties.
02-05-2016, 01:33 PM
#20
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
Yeah we had the Valvoline machine at the shop i worked for. It has new fluid in a tank and it exchanges it one quart out one new in. This can be hard on the transmission as it induces extra line pressure to do the exchange. It also can stir up the particles trapped in the filter. I have also seen less informed techs run it backwards which pushes everything out of the filter in to the pan. I personally don't like to flush for those reasons. But I personally don't like autos in general they are way to finicky. I would recommend the pan drop filter change method as suggested and if it concerns you you can have the fluid changed again after a few thousand if its overdue to make sure you get mostly new fluid in. You will never get all the old fluid out no matter which method you use. Also idk what the manual says but personally 30-50k miles is my limit between flushes they just seem to hold up longer that way and more frequent changes if it sits a lot all fluids have a finite life they breakdown whether you drive it or not and lose some of their lubricating properties.