ym42

They quoted me 1300 for labor on transmission swap, clutch and rear end... With all my parts...

09GT/CS

The 3650 is not the strongest but unless you had some kind of catastrophic failure idk how your clutch could cause a trans issue like broken forks. That comes from resting your hand on the shifter or hard shifting. I can see the synchros possibly from a bad clutch or wrong fluid since that's the weak spot of this trans anyway. Sounds like they are quoting the book. Ford may require them to fix it that way but an independent shop will fix only what is broken and may simply advise you on what is suggested. That seems a tad overkill. I'd shy away from a used box in my opinion because you never know how they are treated. A rebuild shouldn't be much more than that Ebay price then you know it's right and will usually have a warranty. But that's just my 2 cents. Also I'd have them check your pinion angle if the reared is really that bad. Sounds like something was stressing it. The ford 8" is fairly strong a stock GT shouldn't really tear them up unless something else is wrong/broken.

ym42

Basically, its a tricky situation. Here is my reply to what you said, 09GT/CS. I also don't believe it has anything to do with a clutch. My clutch getting to the point of needing replacement but its not slipping yet. I can spin the wheels any time.

Now - about forks/gates/shifter issues. This all started when one day I got somehow locked out of second gear in a hard turn and I tried to force the transmission and probably bent something.

The way it feels like is that my stick has a lot of free motion now, from left to right, even when in gear. The problem manifests usually when I try to shift from 2nd to the 3rd, and I feel that the part that connects the stick to forward backward controls on the transmission is working right, but the link from left to right is experiencing some sort of binding. Sometimes, if while switching between gears I shake the stick left and right as checking if I am in neutral, I am locked out of random gears while transmission stays in the previous gear. It never happens between first and second, or third or forth, only happens between gears that are not on the same line ( like from 2nd to 3, or from 3rd to 2nd, or from 3rd to reverse. Otherwise, it shifts very well, smooth and easy.

Regarding the differential leak. I drive hard and shift at red line very often, do drag-strip-style launches all the time and never serviced rear suspension ( bushings, control arms etc ). I wonder how they know that its something inside that makes it leak at the input shaft, but they seem to be pretty sure about it. I will find out of the transmissions from ebay come with any warranty. I have not checked that, yet...

ym42

I don't know that much about transmissions but I think it has something to do with rails inside. I notice that suddenly its much easier to push the stick out of 4th gear forward to neutral, basically there is no notch any more... At times I hear grinding, but not when I look for a gear but when I push the stick far left... Also, my shift lever wore out the leather boot on the left as it scrapes against the left side of the console opening...

2007CalSpec

For clutches, go with Exedy or McLeod.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/05-07-...utch-kits.html

lenko

"The service manager told me the leak is from the inside of the differential input shaft, not the outside seal - thus the differential need to be disassembled and they want to get a new bearing and gear and pinion )."

The shaft goes through the seal and that's where it's leaking - needs a seal replacement. I'm about to do a leaking pinion seal on mine. Disassembly of the differential is wise to inspect for problems, but I can't fathom how they can see the bearings, pinion and ring to know to replace them. Stay away from those guys. I'm going to take mine apart because I'm going to use a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve this time and will inspect bearings and races and replace parts if I find they need to be. With a solid spacer there won't be a need to disassemble the diff. to replace the pinion seal if it ever goes again.

Some replace the seal by marking the pinion nut and torquing to a specific number, But I like to be precise with the pinion preload, so I use a new crush sleeve which requires disassembly.

jwog666

there is no need to replace the crush sleeve when servicing a pinion sel. the crush sleeve's only purpose is to give resistance to prevent over torquing the pinion bearings. you can reuse your original crush sleeve and tighten the nut back down to its previous position, i do this by marking the nuts position to the pinion, when reassembled line the marks back up and you are good to go. just in case there are any doubters out there..........>>>>>

as far as that shop is concerned, they are trying to rip you off, go elsewhere, or invest some money in tools.

ym42

I am finding new stuff regarding these issues every day. So, supposedly there is new nut and collapsible washer that is used now to combat this issue of oil seeping through the splines or something, past the seal. In order to install that nut the rear differential needs to be disassembled. This was mentioned on this forum few times but of course I would love someone clarifying this for me... If I am going to pay for them opening the housing, I will probably try to put a new Torsen unit, plus may be replace the gears.

Now about the transmission - I went under the car once more, and could clearly see and feel a lot of play in shifter bushings ( rear from the shifter assembly), and where the shirter rod connects to transmission rod going inside. There is a lot of play there somehow. There are people in Mustang forums complaining that this shifter rod ( connecting the stick and rod coming from inside the transmission ) is not available separately, and tends to break, or bushing on it getting worn out...

I am not happy that dealers charged me 110$ do diagnose this while just telling me I need a new transmission - that is bs. I am still driving, just have to guide the stick along a strange path compensating for all the free play in the mechanism.

I will probably try to replace the transmission mount, because depending on car orientation on a slope I get locked out of different gears ( I do not think its the transmission itself, the issue somewhere between the rails and the stick. I think there is also a possibility that the ball fixing the rail of 1st and 2nd gear is warn out, thus allowing it to go past the middle position, locking the other rails... What a headache with this!

I am really considering getting a new transmission from eBay... Or dreaming about T56 Magnum...

jwog666

the way easier solution to the gear oil seep around the splines, is to apply some rtv (very light coating)to the splines before you reinstall the flange, and then apply some more to the area of the nut where it contacts the flange. that has fixed every one i have ever come across, including my own. its not a new issue and has been around as long as the 8.8 has

ym42

So I went ahead and installed a new aftermarket shifter. I picked Barton and I liked the quality. It took me about 2 hrs on my driveway, it was not difficult but took some maneuvering around the driveshaft and figuring out how to put the rubber boot around the stick etc. The feel is better but the gear changing issue is still there. Even if the car is parked and engine not running, when I move the stick from FIRST gear to neutral, everything is OK and I can shift into any other gear. However, if I move the stick from SECOND to neutral, unless I am guiding it back while pressing left and slowly, the stick returns to neutral but second gear is still engaged and I can not shift into other gears obviously. To correct that I have to put the stick back into the second gear and slowly guide the stick while applying pressure to the left until I reach the middle position between 1st and 2nd then it's really back to neutral and I can shift.

Regarding the differential - I might try the RTV around the splines and under the nut in the summer when I have more time... Thanks for advice!