yourmyboybh1026

I've started running my car on road courses and I'm worried about keeping everything at a proper temp. So I'd like to get a larger oil pan, an oil cooler, a better heat exchanger and a better radiator. I'm looking at the Canton rear sump t-pan, mishimoto performance oil cooler, VMP triple pass heat exchanger and the ford performance aluminum radiator. First off, does anyone have any thoughts on those selected parts?

Second, I know the oil cooler will not fit with the heat exchanger installed, so has anyone ran into the problem? Where did you end up mounting the cooler?

flash_xx

I bought an SVT aluminum radiator from LMR.COM, along with the GT500 fans and a 180 thermostat and new water pump. That helped, but what really did the trick was cutting up the hood. Amazing difference, but don't do it unless you plan to keep the car forever, there's no going back from that.

yourmyboybh1026

I have been looking at some kind of heat extracting hood such as the tiger racing hood.
http://www.chicane23.com/shop/body/t...ang-2005-2009/

I'm too chicken to cut into mine and it may look odd since I have a hood scoop. I'd still like to figure out a way to mount the oil cooler and a larger heat extractor. I'm also trying to find a source for the rear diff cooler that comes on the GT500 track pack cars. I have the same diff cover and would like to cool that down too.

Simon1

You can mount a remote oil cooler in either fender in front of the front wheels. It's protected by the fender liner and the frame rails are right there to use for mounting points. Derale makes several sizes with a fan. That's what did for my transmission.

yourmyboybh1026

I'll take a look at their stuff. I've been fixated with the mishimoto kit from AM, but its a universal kit so it can be interesting to mount. The good thing about it is the sandwich plate has an extra 1/8" NPT fitting for a temp sender.

flash_xx

I looked into the Tiger and Steeda racing hoods, but they are waaaay too much money, plus you can't use gas struts to keep hood up. I'd rather buy a Watts Link with that money.

Eric62

I must admit I never had any cooling problems with my 4.6 3-valve 07 5 speed car. It just had a CAI and a tune. Water temps stayed about 215 F at Sebring at 85 degree air temps. Higher than that and I had to "breathe" the car a bit to bring the temps back down. It also helped to tune just a little richer on the WOT fuel mixture. Oil temps were in the 260 range, fine for synthetic oil. The diff fluid and trans fluid were another matter. Both were marginally too high until switching to Royal Purple - ATF in the trans and 75W140 diff. My new 2013 5.0 automatic, however, set the water temp to the moon in very short order. a 3 row Mishimoto is on order. Trans fluid and diff fluid were OK. We'll see how that holds once I can really hammer on the car with better cooling.

yourmyboybh1026

That is one reason I haven't purchased it yet. I may try to find someone to help me put in some kind of vents on my stock hood to vent out some heat first.


I'm kind of leaning toward getting some proper gauges to see where my temps are before I go spending a lot of money on cooling equipment. I've been running all Royal Purple products in my trans and rear for a while now. I did have some diff fluid that leaked out during my final run at Sebring last year, but it wasn't significant, and the leak didn't continue after the track day. I'm guessing it just got a little too hot and vented out or something.

So I'll be installing at least a water and oil temp sensor/gauge and maybe a trans or rear end temp gauge as well.

Eric62

The diff fluid leaking out at the track is very likely just purge from the axle vent. It is located on the passenger side axle tube, just screwed in. It tends to puke hot fluid when you turn left. It is a terrible location for a vent. I swapped the diff cover for the Ford finned one that has a fill port, drain port, temp sender port and a high vent port. I plugged the axle vent with a bolt and some sealer and used the high mount vent on the axle cover. Leakage solved.

As for temporary temperature sensors. You can use an IR temp reader to check temps after the session but you'd need to crawl under the car for trans and diff temps. Or, you can buy a handheld thermocouple reader with 2 inputs and a couple of 10 ft thermocouples for less than $50. Clamp the thermocouple under a bolt on the trans and diff and the route the wires up the shifter boot and put the reader in the cupholder. Now you have real time temps and some readers will store peak readings.

yourmyboybh1026

Thats exactly what it was, so I wasn't too worried about it. I do have the Steeda diff cover with the fins, fill and drain plugs and everything. I'll check to see if it has the high mount vent on the axle cover and try using that instead.