which balljoint/lca should i get? and which pads/rotors?
#1
which balljoint/lca should i get? and which pads/rotors?
So i'm at 60k miles, 06 GT and just got my oil changed today and they say i need to replace my driver side front ball joint (lower control arm assembly). I have noticed a bit of a clunking noise coming from the driver's side so makes sense.
the ford part is 300$, what would be the best aftermarket option that isn't super expensive performance?
AM has "OPR" brand for 99$, is that good? or what other brand do you recommend? not looking to get a fancy adjustable performance model, just want something as good or better than OEM
http://www.americanmuscle.com/front-...iver-0510.html
also they say i need to replace my rear pads and rotors. would i be ok with these xtreme stop rotors/pads?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/xtreme...rear-0510.html
thanks
the ford part is 300$, what would be the best aftermarket option that isn't super expensive performance?
AM has "OPR" brand for 99$, is that good? or what other brand do you recommend? not looking to get a fancy adjustable performance model, just want something as good or better than OEM
http://www.americanmuscle.com/front-...iver-0510.html
also they say i need to replace my rear pads and rotors. would i be ok with these xtreme stop rotors/pads?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/xtreme...rear-0510.html
thanks
#2
You won't get better than OEM unless you buy either FRPP or Steeda. If you are doing this yourself, when you pull out your OEM one and compare it with the non OEM economy one, I'm pretty certain you'll see/feel the difference. One key component that isn't so easy to see is the type of rubber used. Aftermarket tends to skimp on that which means, you'll have bad control arms again in a year or two because the rubber will wear out and tear more easily.
You can check out r o c k auto d 0 t com to see what they have. Moog would be the only aftermarket I would consider.
Pads, I am partial to Akebono ceramic pads.
You can check out r o c k auto d 0 t com to see what they have. Moog would be the only aftermarket I would consider.
Pads, I am partial to Akebono ceramic pads.
#3
You won't get better than OEM unless you buy either FRPP or Steeda. If you are doing this yourself, when you pull out your OEM one and compare it with the non OEM economy one, I'm pretty certain you'll see/feel the difference. One key component that isn't so easy to see is the type of rubber used. Aftermarket tends to skimp on that which means, you'll have bad control arms again in a year or two because the rubber will wear out and tear more easily.
You can check out r o c k auto d 0 t com to see what they have. Moog would be the only aftermarket I would consider.
Pads, I am partial to Akebono ceramic pads.
You can check out r o c k auto d 0 t com to see what they have. Moog would be the only aftermarket I would consider.
Pads, I am partial to Akebono ceramic pads.
#4
Yup, Moog is good. You should get the tie rod ends too, they go at about the same time., get both arms done at the same time. As for the brakes, plain Centric rotors are more than enough. I'd change all four along with the pads, No sense in doing the rear now and the fronts later. As for pads I'm partial to the EBC greenstuff for the road. Change the brake fluid as well.
#5
Yup, Moog is good. You should get the tie rod ends too, they go at about the same time., get both arms done at the same time. As for the brakes, plain Centric rotors are more than enough. I'd change all four along with the pads, No sense in doing the rear now and the fronts later. As for pads I'm partial to the EBC greenstuff for the road. Change the brake fluid as well.
#6
Hey actually I ended up ordering the Ford racing ball joints! These are what come OEM with the gt500! Kinda cool thinking I'll have GT500 parts on my GT, a small step closer to becoming a GT500
#7
Heh, when I replaced mine I got the whole GT500 arms so I wouldn't have to deal with replacing the rear bushings which were shot as well. They are really beefy compared to stock
#8
#9
If you install them yourself, be certain to use blue loctite on the nuts/bolts then torque them to spec. You won't have to recheck them that way. If you don't use loctite, recheck the torque after a few hundred miles. Don't use Red loctite. Red is meant for permanent and requires heat to break loose. Blue is medium strength and can be taken apart with hand tools.