Thermostat housing Bypass leak
06-26-2018, 05:34 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: tx
Posts: 5
Thermostat housing Bypass leak
Hey guys I have a 2007 s197 4.0l
I noticed coolant leaking below my engine. I finally got a chance to examine it and notice my thermostat bypass hose was leaking pretty bad. Then I looked closer and saw it was busted pretty much. I changed the hose and the clamps Sunday afternoon. By Sunday evening the new hose was leaking. By Monday the new hose is busted. I took my car to my uncle now who is a mechanic but I wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem.
Thanks
I noticed coolant leaking below my engine. I finally got a chance to examine it and notice my thermostat bypass hose was leaking pretty bad. Then I looked closer and saw it was busted pretty much. I changed the hose and the clamps Sunday afternoon. By Sunday evening the new hose was leaking. By Monday the new hose is busted. I took my car to my uncle now who is a mechanic but I wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem.
Thanks
06-27-2018, 02:08 PM
#6
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
What brand of hose and hose clamp are you using? I found dayco and other common aftermarkets are not made as good as OEM Motorcraft hoses. You will pay more for an OEM hose but the quality is second to none and you won't get that bubbling effect that cheap hoses end up getting..
Also, I do not recommend or use worm style hose clamps on any hoses for automotive work that I do. Worm style are those that have a screw to tighten the clamp down like for your intake and are pretty much what all auto parts places sell. They don't allow for expansion/contraction and will literally cut through the hose over time or make it so you cannot reuse the hose if you ever have to temporarily remove it.
Get a new aluminum housing as recommended, get a ford hose and get what's called a (constant tension) Spring band clamp for your hose. It's what came with the car. They can be hard to find but you can find them on E-bay and in some cases amazon. Use a worm clamp if you have to for temporary until you can find a spring band clamp. http://www.kokenliotomotiv.com/uploa...dard_67070.jpg
Do not get the ones that look like this, they do not work well for coolant hoses as they have a tendency to leak or have have the same issues as worm clamps..
http://www.emwardfastenings.com/perc...c-w500h375.jpg
Also, I do not recommend or use worm style hose clamps on any hoses for automotive work that I do. Worm style are those that have a screw to tighten the clamp down like for your intake and are pretty much what all auto parts places sell. They don't allow for expansion/contraction and will literally cut through the hose over time or make it so you cannot reuse the hose if you ever have to temporarily remove it.
Get a new aluminum housing as recommended, get a ford hose and get what's called a (constant tension) Spring band clamp for your hose. It's what came with the car. They can be hard to find but you can find them on E-bay and in some cases amazon. Use a worm clamp if you have to for temporary until you can find a spring band clamp. http://www.kokenliotomotiv.com/uploa...dard_67070.jpg
Do not get the ones that look like this, they do not work well for coolant hoses as they have a tendency to leak or have have the same issues as worm clamps..
http://www.emwardfastenings.com/perc...c-w500h375.jpg
Last edited by Derf00; 06-27-2018 at 02:12 PM.
06-27-2018, 02:40 PM
#8
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
either way, the motorcraft hose is way better and will last longer...even with so-so clamps.
06-29-2018, 04:18 PM
#9
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
Clamps that need pliers are a tension clamp, and have their physical limits.
These have a continual clamping force that, as the hose softens up, it
can still create clamping force. This, until the metal weakens... These
are the most common type of clamps for coolant hoses, and low side of
the P/S pump, and air intake hose, vacuum line clamps.
Clamps that need the crimp tool are a fixed pressure, and won't loosen, but
they also won't apply more pressure as the hoes gets softer. These types
are on P/S rack bellows, and CV Joint boots, and some PCV fittings.
Band clamps, tighten with a nut driver or screw driver may need constant
attention as the hose gets softer, and the walls thin out, they need tightened.
They also loosen up themselves, so they need re-tightened from time to time,
or when you see leaks... These, well, are just used to replace the other ones.
Cars now days don't come off the line with band clamps like this anymore.
These have a continual clamping force that, as the hose softens up, it
can still create clamping force. This, until the metal weakens... These
are the most common type of clamps for coolant hoses, and low side of
the P/S pump, and air intake hose, vacuum line clamps.
Clamps that need the crimp tool are a fixed pressure, and won't loosen, but
they also won't apply more pressure as the hoes gets softer. These types
are on P/S rack bellows, and CV Joint boots, and some PCV fittings.
Band clamps, tighten with a nut driver or screw driver may need constant
attention as the hose gets softer, and the walls thin out, they need tightened.
They also loosen up themselves, so they need re-tightened from time to time,
or when you see leaks... These, well, are just used to replace the other ones.
Cars now days don't come off the line with band clamps like this anymore.
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