Brake Pads
09-10-2018, 08:21 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 1
Brake Pads
Hi all,
New here and just looking for any feedback on some brake pads my local mechanic recommended for the front. They use NAPA adaptive one brake pads. I just want something quiet with not a ton of dust. This is my daily driver (2014 V6).
Thanks.
New here and just looking for any feedback on some brake pads my local mechanic recommended for the front. They use NAPA adaptive one brake pads. I just want something quiet with not a ton of dust. This is my daily driver (2014 V6).
Thanks.
09-10-2018, 04:25 PM
#2
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
Ceramics are low dust, nothing is lower, but there are different levels
of Ceramics... They still produce brake dust, but it's a finer, lighter
color dust, most which doesn't stick to the wheels, unless they're wet...
Metallic pads, brake dust is not only pad material, but metal from the
rotor, as they are more abrasive.
Organic, low brake dust, but have the most brake fade with heat.
of Ceramics... They still produce brake dust, but it's a finer, lighter
color dust, most which doesn't stick to the wheels, unless they're wet...
Metallic pads, brake dust is not only pad material, but metal from the
rotor, as they are more abrasive.
Organic, low brake dust, but have the most brake fade with heat.
09-11-2018, 01:32 PM
#3
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Ceramics are the better/best way to go. Akebono makes a good pad that I've been using on all of our cars for over 15 years. The Napa Adaptive One pads are also ceramic but I've never tried them. They should be fine. All of Napa's product lines are white label or OEM'd from other reputable brands own product lines so they should be decent. Not like some auto parts places that charge a premium for mostly junk.
Never get organics for a car that is designed to use semi-metallic or ceramic. You lose a TON of braking power and the pads wear out pretty fast since the rotor's metalurgy is different from those compatible with organic. Made that mistake many, many years ago with my 1987 Nissan Sentra. A very light car by today's standards. I went with organic because they were inexpensive. I was 16 and had just started working so I was very money conscientious about maintenance. All of my funds went to car audio and dating
They barely lasted two months.
Never get organics for a car that is designed to use semi-metallic or ceramic. You lose a TON of braking power and the pads wear out pretty fast since the rotor's metalurgy is different from those compatible with organic. Made that mistake many, many years ago with my 1987 Nissan Sentra. A very light car by today's standards. I went with organic because they were inexpensive. I was 16 and had just started working so I was very money conscientious about maintenance. All of my funds went to car audio and dating
They barely lasted two months.
11-26-2018, 11:43 AM
#7
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TX
Posts: 26
Hawk pads? They seem to be more highly rated than the Akebonos by the reviewers - though I tend to wonder about that...
Front: http://a.co/d/grx5Vnb
Rear: http://a.co/d/fGzp6F4
Front: http://a.co/d/grx5Vnb
Rear: http://a.co/d/fGzp6F4
11-26-2018, 12:36 PM
#8
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Hawk is a reputable pad used by many Mustang owners on this site. Never used them myself but, if you're willing to pony up the extra money, don't see why not?
Edit: I read reviews as a data point, not as the only conclusive evidence to base my decision on. You have to look at the demographic from where the review came from:
Most (Not all) Akebono reviews are from average DIYers who know enough that Ceramics are better than semi-metallic but ,they may not be well versed on all of the advantages/disadvantages of stepping up or, may not be a picky about their installation process as those who step up to pad with a higher price-point like Hawk. Average users will almost always blame the product when there is a problem even if it could be attributed to install error. - Squealing, vibration, etc.
Hawk users are more likely (but not always) to be advanced DIYers. They are typically better versed (or at least have done more research) to understand the advantages/disadvantages and recognize install errors vs performance faults.Their reviews will reflect that.
I chose Akebono's for the price vs performance aspect since I can't justify the Hawk pads for DD. I have had ceramics squeal on me once. I took a shortcut and just slapped the pads on a questionable rotor surface. Promptly tore it back down, had the rotors turned, problem solved.
Just keep that in mind.
As for your question about turning the rotors, always a good idea but as long as the surface of the rotor is clean and flat (no grooves, pits, or weird coloring (Bluing) and there is no shimmy present when slowing down (warped rotors), just be sure to bed the new brake pads properly. Each Mfg has it's own procedure so follow it accordingly after install.
Edit: I read reviews as a data point, not as the only conclusive evidence to base my decision on. You have to look at the demographic from where the review came from:
Most (Not all) Akebono reviews are from average DIYers who know enough that Ceramics are better than semi-metallic but ,they may not be well versed on all of the advantages/disadvantages of stepping up or, may not be a picky about their installation process as those who step up to pad with a higher price-point like Hawk. Average users will almost always blame the product when there is a problem even if it could be attributed to install error. - Squealing, vibration, etc.
Hawk users are more likely (but not always) to be advanced DIYers. They are typically better versed (or at least have done more research) to understand the advantages/disadvantages and recognize install errors vs performance faults.Their reviews will reflect that.
I chose Akebono's for the price vs performance aspect since I can't justify the Hawk pads for DD. I have had ceramics squeal on me once. I took a shortcut and just slapped the pads on a questionable rotor surface. Promptly tore it back down, had the rotors turned, problem solved.
Just keep that in mind.
As for your question about turning the rotors, always a good idea but as long as the surface of the rotor is clean and flat (no grooves, pits, or weird coloring (Bluing) and there is no shimmy present when slowing down (warped rotors), just be sure to bed the new brake pads properly. Each Mfg has it's own procedure so follow it accordingly after install.
Last edited by Derf00; 11-26-2018 at 01:01 PM.
11-26-2018, 03:34 PM
#9
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TX
Posts: 26
I noticed, too, a lot of folks wanted brakes that didn't put out *all that brake dust,* and these pads *kept the car looking good, but they squealed like a stuck pig* - so, like you say, the demographic... The reviews I really cared about were performance, fade resistance, not the Brembo pads, etc. Truly, some folks seem to think you can get something for nothing, that there's no trade-off. I'll put up with a little noise if I get great performance. I don't want pads that will be loose and make clacking noises in the calipers, etc.
Currently, the pads in this care are squealy as Hell, and while I was getting an alignment, the guy said the pads have a lot of life on them. I think I'm going to jack 'er up and check the front left pads because something is noisy in there, we all know... a noise annoys!
11-26-2018, 03:40 PM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
it open to put the pads in. These, you have to take the caliper off the bracket...
Every video out there shows the caliper coming off, not one person took one bolt
out and flipped it open.
Rear, well, since you have to turn them as you push them, the caliper has to come off
for ease...
Replacing the rotors, with good pads, just pull the bracket bolts, and pull the whole
assembly off with the loaded caliper, then put the rotor on...
ALL of course, pushing the pistons in where needed...