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OBDII STILL Not Resetting?

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Old 12-04-2018, 07:30 PM
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Dauntless
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Default OBDII STILL Not Resetting?

It is about to be 1,000 miles since my 2012 got a new (Rebuilt) alternator as mentioned in another thread. This because I was worried the other wouldn't get through the smog test. Now I still can't get it smogged, the shop says the monitors aren't ready, my hand scanner gives a yellow light. I've found the drive cycle in different versions all over the place, the fact is who could tell if they've driven the car exactly as it states? (" 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration ," " accelerate normally.") People say it takes a half hour, 50 miles, etc. Something isn't happening with my car.

One thing I wonder, if Pep Boys (Maybe I shouldn't go there anymore) doesn't install the tire sensors as promised and paid for (They didn't even make a FULL refund when I went back) does that mean my old Bullitts from whatever old car have to come off and I smog it with the OEM's? (Only two hold air at the moment.)

So I'm wondering if I get to spend the California minimum of $500 on this just to get through smog for two years.
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Old 12-04-2018, 10:19 PM
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danzcool
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Originally Posted by Dauntless View Post
It is about to be 1,000 miles since my 2012 got a new (Rebuilt) alternator as mentioned in another thread. This because I was worried the other wouldn't get through the smog test. Now I still can't get it smogged, the shop says the monitors aren't ready, my hand scanner gives a yellow light. I've found the drive cycle in different versions all over the place, the fact is who could tell if they've driven the car exactly as it states? (" 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration ," " accelerate normally.") People say it takes a half hour, 50 miles, etc. Something isn't happening with my car.

One thing I wonder, if Pep Boys (Maybe I shouldn't go there anymore) doesn't install the tire sensors as promised and paid for (They didn't even make a FULL refund when I went back) does that mean my old Bullitts from whatever old car have to come off and I smog it with the OEM's? (Only two hold air at the moment.)

So I'm wondering if I get to spend the California minimum of $500 on this just to get through smog for two years.
I don't think TPMS will fail you. You need to know which monitors are not ready. Is your car tuned? I know a lot of tuners turn off the rear O2 sensors by default unless you ask for an emissions tune. But knowing which monitors are registering "not ready" will help to know what to do. Also noting if there are any codes being thrown...
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Old 12-05-2018, 02:31 PM
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Derf00
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Originally Posted by Dauntless View Post
It is about to be 1,000 miles since my 2012 got a new (Rebuilt) alternator as mentioned in another thread. This because I was worried the other wouldn't get through the smog test. Now I still can't get it smogged, the shop says the monitors aren't ready, my hand scanner gives a yellow light. I've found the drive cycle in different versions all over the place, the fact is who could tell if they've driven the car exactly as it states? (" 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration ," " accelerate normally.") People say it takes a half hour, 50 miles, etc. Something isn't happening with my car.

One thing I wonder, if Pep Boys (Maybe I shouldn't go there anymore) doesn't install the tire sensors as promised and paid for (They didn't even make a FULL refund when I went back) does that mean my old Bullitts from whatever old car have to come off and I smog it with the OEM's? (Only two hold air at the moment.)

So I'm wondering if I get to spend the California minimum of $500 on this just to get through smog for two years.
A mointors'/sensors' "Readiness" is based on a certain number of electrical, environmental, and drive conditions that must be met before the sensor has completed its checklist and can be deemed 'Ready/Ok".

A drive cycle is simply a predesignated driving routine that when completed exactly as described and instructed, will put all of the monitored sensors through their checklist so they can switch over to 'Read/Ok' in the car's computer. When a particular sensor has not yet completed its checklist, the corresponding Monitor will say 'Not ready' or 'Incomplete' on a hand-held tuning device or a smog station reader. Your tuner should be able to see which monitor's are 'Not Ready' or the smog shop should also be able to tell you.

Contact your local Ford dealer and ask a service rep what the correct drive cycle is for your car. Aftermarket shops often don't have have a clue.

What kind of mods are on the car? Intake, headers, supercharger, etc? Which monitors aren't ready? Once you have that we can probably help you more.

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Old 12-05-2018, 06:25 PM
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I changed the tune in my Mustang once, and ran it 457 miles, and it did not become
ready. That was because it was tuned, then run for the continuous 457 miles. I let
it sit, then ran it to Walmart in stop-n-go conditions, then it became ready.

To see if it's ready without a scan tool:
Turn the car to RUN, and wait 13-15 seconds. If the check engine light blinks,
it's not ready. Every car I have had, that was a 2006+, the CEL would blink
when not ready; after tuning, or clearing DTCs. Took my Charger 3-5 days to
become ready every time I changed the tune. I put it back to stock, drove it
a day then went for emissions testing, it failed, took it back again, and it failed,
till the 3rd time. The LONG drives just were not enough to get it ready, it had to
be stop-n-go driving, or run the procedure. Or, if you have the right scan-tool,
force readiness.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:10 PM
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The car has not been tuned in any way, it just got the new alternator with the battery disconnected. I don't think I've seen the check engine flash once through this.

I took it to an Auto Chek, I don't know if they're a national chain but they seem pretty good, they gave me a printout that said 'Fuel System' then' Evaporative System,' 'Oxygen Sensor Heater,' 'Catalyst,' 'Oxygen Sensor.' My scanner give four symbols that look representative of those.

It's been about a month,I suppose I've reached 1,000 miles but I didn't log exact mileage. Ironic that I didn't test to see if it would pass before I changed the alternator but now I can't because of it. Or could I, maybe this was already going on.

And yeah, I was saying the described guide for driving came with no guarantees you'd even know you were doing it right. But the evap, it's had every night since, right? The O2 is on the exhaust, I thought that was a simple one.
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Old 12-07-2018, 01:17 PM
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I haven't done an alt on a 5.0 just the 4.6. What items did you have to move out of the way or disconnect to remove the alt? Retrace your steps, check for any vacuum lines that look pinched or not connected correclty. Check for any wire harnesses that are pinched or not fully seated.

Also,for the Fuel System Evaporative System, check the fuel cap. If you have a capless system check to make sure the metal flap is closing all the way.
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:50 PM
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I have the V6. Only had to disconnect the battery, the alternator was out where it was easy, unlike the starter. One harness to disconnect. I look at the door on my capless, yeah, another thing it's hard for me to say everything is okay with. I have to do a search to see what the catalyst sensor means, but it's now saying it's bad it's just not running whatever test. (??) If there's an O2 besides on the exhaust I'm not familiar, nor can I guess where the other oxygen sensor is. I was a California licensed smog mechanic for pre OBD cars when I was a teenager, I just haven't learned much about all these sensors.

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Old 12-15-2018, 05:15 AM
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Hello there!

Same problem here.

I have a 2012 Mustang GT and I have a JLT CAI. This is the first year California asks for a smog on my car.

I returned to stock and added a strategy tune for the CAI only to avoid the P0174 code.

I was able to get all sensors including EVAP ready EXCEPT the O2 sensor and O2 sensor heater. I already drove the car over 100 miles and it's still a no go.

I tried the suggested steps below a couple of times.

1. Oxygen Sensor Drive Cycles
The following are some sample drive cycle requirements for the oxygen sensor monitor to run:
Ford: The monitor should run when the engine has reached normal operating temperature, the inlet air temperature is between 40 and 100 degrees F, and the vehicle is cruising at a steady 40 mph for four minutes.

2. (same thing from a different site)
HEGO - Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes. - Executes the HEGO monitor.

Have you heard any other CA mustang owners successfully getting the O2 sensor ready and passing the smog with an aftermarket CAI installed?

I also have Flowmaster mufflers. Is it possible that this is causing the O2 sensors to not be ready?

I saw a few posts from CA mustang owners that they were able to get the sensors ready and passed the smog but for older mustangs. See link below.

mustangforums.com/forum/gt-s197-general-discussion/571429-smog-check-in-ca-with-tune-and-or-cai.html#post6611205

Any pointers on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
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