Possible blown engine. Loud knock. Need advice. VIDEOS INCLUDED!
#1
Possible blown engine. Loud knock. Need advice. VIDEOS INCLUDED!
Hey guys, this is my first post in this forum.
I wont write much because my video has the information.
I'm looking for advice on what to do here. The engine sounds like it's about to blow. I trailered it back to my parent's house where it's sitting in the driveway.
I'm considering getting a hoist and pulling the engine and replacing it. I've never done an engine pull before, but first time for everything, right?
The videos I watched on youtube make it seem totally doable.
At this stage I'm looking for advice. How would you proceed given the circumstances?
I'm unemployed for probably another month, so money matters, but I have a lot of time. I can pick up a motor for less than $1k, or I can pull the motor, get a rebuild kit, and bring it down to my uncle and he and I can try and rebuild it. But for the extra couple hundred, is it worth it just to get an already running one?
Looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts.
Sorry I didn't put it all into one video for you guys.
Part 1
Part 2
The actual knock sound
I wont write much because my video has the information.
I'm looking for advice on what to do here. The engine sounds like it's about to blow. I trailered it back to my parent's house where it's sitting in the driveway.
I'm considering getting a hoist and pulling the engine and replacing it. I've never done an engine pull before, but first time for everything, right?
The videos I watched on youtube make it seem totally doable.
At this stage I'm looking for advice. How would you proceed given the circumstances?
I'm unemployed for probably another month, so money matters, but I have a lot of time. I can pick up a motor for less than $1k, or I can pull the motor, get a rebuild kit, and bring it down to my uncle and he and I can try and rebuild it. But for the extra couple hundred, is it worth it just to get an already running one?
Looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts.
Sorry I didn't put it all into one video for you guys.
#3
Dino,
I appreciate your input.
One thing I was considering was just replacing the rod bearings, but I don't think that's a great idea.
I don't want to go through all the work of pulling an engine for the first time, replace bearings, put it back in, and have it last a few more oil changes.
I think the best idea is probably to go with your suggestion. How can you trust a junkyard engine though? How do you know a "decent" one vs a crappy one?
I have someone near me who is selling a '06 engine with what he claims is 38k miles on it. He's asking 1k. I have no way of knowing whether or not he's lying, though.
I could just as easily pull my screwed up engine and throw it on craigslist and tell someone it's get 38k on it.
I appreciate your input.
One thing I was considering was just replacing the rod bearings, but I don't think that's a great idea.
I don't want to go through all the work of pulling an engine for the first time, replace bearings, put it back in, and have it last a few more oil changes.
I think the best idea is probably to go with your suggestion. How can you trust a junkyard engine though? How do you know a "decent" one vs a crappy one?
I have someone near me who is selling a '06 engine with what he claims is 38k miles on it. He's asking 1k. I have no way of knowing whether or not he's lying, though.
I could just as easily pull my screwed up engine and throw it on craigslist and tell someone it's get 38k on it.
#4
I'm at work so no audio to hear what yours sounds like but
Most items are not rod knock on these cars. Since you're pulling the engine it may be worthwhile to check out some of the suggestions above. 5.4L 3V and 4.6L 3V have identical timing configurations and components and have similar failures.
Most items are not rod knock on these cars. Since you're pulling the engine it may be worthwhile to check out some of the suggestions above. 5.4L 3V and 4.6L 3V have identical timing configurations and components and have similar failures.
Last edited by Derf00; 04-16-2019 at 01:32 PM.
#5
When Oil pressure drops with a knock, is usually a spun bearing...
That, or the oil pump is bad, which caused it. HE said the oil pressure drops to
ZERO when hot at times, so, it's the pump which killed the motor, or a spun main
bearing. I don't think a ROD bearing will drop oil pressure like that, but going to
ZERO is as bad as it gets.
That, or the oil pump is bad, which caused it. HE said the oil pressure drops to
ZERO when hot at times, so, it's the pump which killed the motor, or a spun main
bearing. I don't think a ROD bearing will drop oil pressure like that, but going to
ZERO is as bad as it gets.
#6
The bottom end will need to be rebuilt no matter what. A heavy knock plus intermittent zero oil pressure is terminal for the engine and it's on the edge of grenading.
The rod and possibly the main crank journals may need to be reground undersize, and the cylinders will at least need to be rehoned if not rebored.
Naturally you're going to find other wear items inside the engine that'll need replacing so the parts list will end up being something like this:
New undersize rod/main bearings
New piston rings (possibly new pistons as well)
New oil pump
New camshaft drive kit
New rocker arm/lash adjuster kit
Upper & lower gasket/seal sets
Add the labor cost and you could end up with a bill of over three grand.
Only you can decide if it's worth it but you'll have an engine that should last another 100+k miles if you do a full rebuild, whereas swapping in a used engine is a gamble that could either pay off handsomely or backfire badly.
You'll also need to consider the condition of the rest of the car in making a decision on the engine.
The rod and possibly the main crank journals may need to be reground undersize, and the cylinders will at least need to be rehoned if not rebored.
Naturally you're going to find other wear items inside the engine that'll need replacing so the parts list will end up being something like this:
New undersize rod/main bearings
New piston rings (possibly new pistons as well)
New oil pump
New camshaft drive kit
New rocker arm/lash adjuster kit
Upper & lower gasket/seal sets
Add the labor cost and you could end up with a bill of over three grand.
Only you can decide if it's worth it but you'll have an engine that should last another 100+k miles if you do a full rebuild, whereas swapping in a used engine is a gamble that could either pay off handsomely or backfire badly.
You'll also need to consider the condition of the rest of the car in making a decision on the engine.
Last edited by Dino Dino Bambino; 04-17-2019 at 01:42 AM.
#8
IMO it isn't worth trying to rebuild that engine. If your budget is limited, you're much better off looking for a good used salvage engine from a large supplier who can provide some sort of warranty. Don't buy from eBay or Craigslist 'cause there's no comeback if the engine turns out to be a dud.
Then again if you have money to burn, you could consider a Coyote swap.
Then again if you have money to burn, you could consider a Coyote swap.
#9
I'm following up here so if any of you guys were curious you can "get closure" and anyone reading this in the future might have an idea on where to look.
I have my theories on what happened with the engine, but I don't want the power of suggestion to influence anyone, so I'm just going to upload the pics and you guys take submit what you believe to be the cause of the mustang troubles.
Let me know your thoughts on the pictures, then I'll share mine.
Thanks!!!!
I have my theories on what happened with the engine, but I don't want the power of suggestion to influence anyone, so I'm just going to upload the pics and you guys take submit what you believe to be the cause of the mustang troubles.
Let me know your thoughts on the pictures, then I'll share mine.
Thanks!!!!
#10
Wow, thanks for posting, it's hard to look at!
Timing tensioner or guide broke. That created two issues
1) Chain slack which led to erratic timing and possibly even skipping a tooth
2) Garbage being dumped into the oil pan which clogged the pickup tube and starved your engine of oil when it needed it most (high RPM). Thus damaging the rod bearings and creating even more slack in the timing chains due to tensioners/guides that were already damaged.
Timing tensioner or guide broke. That created two issues
1) Chain slack which led to erratic timing and possibly even skipping a tooth
2) Garbage being dumped into the oil pan which clogged the pickup tube and starved your engine of oil when it needed it most (high RPM). Thus damaging the rod bearings and creating even more slack in the timing chains due to tensioners/guides that were already damaged.