giovani13

The manual on the car indicates that after the first 500 miles you should check the torque on the wheels. Well...I did. The back were good except for one bolt needed to be snugged. On the front however, almost all needed to be snugged up.

By the way the manual indicates 100 ft/lbs.

'06 GT

fairlane292

I'll tell you, when I'm torqing to 100lbs it sure feels like an awful lot (have two click type TWrenches so I know it's ok, but feels like a lot of muscle on these) ..guess I'm not accustomed to torqing anything up that high. Using anti-seize just to be safe. Thanks for the tip to check these periodically at least for the first few 1000 miles.

Fourth Horseman

That's consistent with what I've seen in the shop manuals for other Ford vehicles. I typically torque down to 95 lb-ft.

Mustang7302

If you think 100Lbs is bad, try 150Lbs that the 01-04 Lightnings take with thier 14mm studs!!!

Philostang

Wow--if I hadn't just checked mine today (1000 miles, I just installed wheel locks) I wouldn't have believed this was such a big deal, but MOST of mine needed to be snugged up and cranked tight. One was so loose I think just a tiny bit more driving and it would've flown off. []

This is a big FYI! Thanks for posting (I was going to do it before I saw giovani13's post.

Best
-j

FREAKO

I wouldnt use anti-seize on lug nuts.....they should be clean (no rust) and dry.

fairlane292

Serious... why is that? Mine is only a 3 season fair weather driver and may never get rained on but in the northeast especially if you drive year round you get salt everywhere. It promotes corrosion in places you would never expect, essentially corrosive spray that "wicks" into and along joints. I don't prescribe to loading the threads up but I put a little at the base of the threads where the lug will seat. If you know of a problem that this will cause please give me the specifics of that; I'd be really interested. If it doesn't cause any problem (can't believe it's gonna promote loosening at 100lbs; I mean I'll be checking anyway) then I would continue with using it sparingly as I do. But hey, let me know, especially if you have some tech info on this... always looking to learn somethin new.

Newbreedgt05

I use anti-seize compound on just about every bolt that I remove when I am doing any work to the engine or drivetrain including the lug nuts of my other cars. They were really hard to remove the first time from all of the corrosion, but now they come off easily. I have never had any problem with the anti-seize compound causing any bolts to come loose from regular driving. It doesn't make the bolts come loose, it just prevents corrosion.

fairlane292

Newbreedgt05: Yeah, I don't know what FREAKO is referring to: I just spent 10mins and found the following on a few of many, many products all saying the same thing. One not listed here put it well. "A general purpose anti-seize compound which provides a shield against metal-to-metal contact, thus preventing seizure and corrosion. It fills irregularities and imperfections and resists welding, hardening or setting."

Just cause Ford doesn't bother to put any on doesn't mean it shouldn't be used. I and friends have mine have been using it on multiple applications for years; lugs nuts for one and we check nuts periodically with torque wrenches and over the years have never had any amount of loosening. I just didn't know if FREAKO was an engineer and knew about some breaking news in the industry or something... ya never know. I kinda wondered though when he said not to use but but gave no reason. ...oh well.


Lubro Moly Anti-Seize Compound
http://www.automotion.com/productpag...Seize+Compound
Prevents hardware from seizing, galling and rusting. Withstands extreme temperatures for exhaust, turbos, spark plugs and brake parts. Prevents corrosion when used on two different metals and stops brake squealing when applied to back of brake pads. Great for lug bolts!


http://www.exoticars-usa.com/wheels.html
Cars with bolt-on wheels need special wheel mounting attention as much as their knock-off wheeled cousins. Before mounting bolt-on wheels, it's a good habit to thoroughly clean the wheel and hub mating surfaces and apply a very thin coat of grease to the wheel mounting face. Clean the threaded studs and apply a thin, even coat of molybdenum anti-seize compound to each one.

saf-t-eze
http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antis...plications.htm
This partial list of industries, equipment and specific applications has been tabulated to illustrate SAF-T-EZEĀ® Anti-Seize potential for reducing maintenance costs.
Automotive:
BATTERY POST AND CONNECTIONS
REAR SPRING U-BOLTS
SHACKLE BOLTS
TORQUE RODS
U-JOINT BEARINGS
EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKETS
SPARK PLUGS
FRAME AND BODY BOLTS
BRAKE CAMS AND PINS
WHEEL LUG NUTS

FREAKO

When you lubricate a fastener, more of the torque causes tension in the bolt. So when you lubricate, you are creating more tension for a given torque. Plus, your tightening to the manufacturers recommend spec for dry clean threads, not lubricated threads.

"Proper tension, not friction is needed. When using a lubricant, oil, moly, anti-sieze, etc., and a torque wrench, you need to adjust your applied torque to the appropriate value of the lubricant used."

And in a technical sense...

A simple formula for bolt preload (tension) is: For dry threads: P = 5T/D (friction coeff = .20) where: P = axial load inducted in the bolt, T = the applied torque, D = fastener diameter.

For lubricated threads: P = 10T/D (friction coef = .10)...so you can see the lube effectively doubles the bolt preload for a given applied torque! So, from your "dry" torque spec you can calc a "dry" bolt preload (P)...using that P and the "wet" thread eqn, you can solve for the "wet" torque (T) required to give you the same preload.


Got this from a book up in engineering (aircraft) at my place of employment.