chevykiller

I have a roush so I have the crappy decal stripes. I went to the dealer (I know - dealer=expensive) and they quoted me $1600 to remove the roush decal stripes, clean-up and paint white stripes. I thought this was a little steep and wanted to get some feedback from people who have paid for painted stripes. Thanks.

Mark

zanemoseley

First off, take the old decals off youself. Just get some goo gone and about an hour and you should be able to get it off. Then try a reputable custom shop and the price should be significantly less.

fairlane292

Yup, hair dryer (and warm garage or 65+ outside air; goo-gone for left over residue; Dealers around here are not really where you want this work done. You want a custom paint shop. Many that do mostly choppers, custom bikes are great if you can find one that does some cars too. They typically have a level of quality that faw exceeds all other automotive paint shops. Make sure you compare the results of clearcoat work by the shops (preferably under florescent lightening) The finish should be ultra smooth (it's been sanded with 1500 and 2000 and buffed (no wax for 4-5 weeks) ...but it won't look like wax can even help; ultra smooth and the "finish will look wet". Oh and you wont feel the stripes or any custom accent stripes you choose. Look at work shops have done; those with the great experience and skill really aren't going to charge that much more; they are more efficient, waste less of the very expensive paint materials. ...and you'll really happy. ...not to mention the finish you get will shave a tenth on your quarter due to decreased drag (lol)

chevykiller

Thanks a bunch - I'll definitely shop around. I want to do it for around $800. I'm great with motors but the first to admit I don't know squat about paint.

fairlane292

I'll be asking you questions about motors and perf recommendations (lol)

The Ghost

STOP>>>I am going through this as RIGHT NOW. I am having to get the stripes professionally removed due to the factory paint on all the plastic parts(bumpers and wing) is also coming off with the stipe. The metal body parts came off great. The shop that installed my stripes began working on it last thurs. but had to stop due to the time it was taking. I am taking it back this tues. and they have scheduled five hours to remove them. I go into paint Wed. $1800 for a seamless stripe job running ground to ground. He is going to remove every panel (bumpers, hood, trunk, wing) and do each seperatley. No overspray. If you want to remove your own stripes I strongly suggest testing a small piece on the plastic first.

chevykiller

Thanks Ghost. That was one of my biggest concerns - all of the plastic I have from the roush body kit. Maybe $1600 isn't too bad cause they told me they would have to do the same thing but I didn't know if they were BS'n me or not. I guess not...LOL I think I'm going to wait a bit, because I want to get cervini's rear fascia and side scoops. Guess I'll just do it then cause I have to have those painted as well. I don't like the giant 'roush' on the rear fascia.

Truxtun

Team Ford in Houston, bumper to bumper, $512 There have been several people here on the boards that have also had theirs done there... It can be done well and cheaply... I am very happy with mine.

StreetRod Steve

I paid about $300 total, parts & labor, for the Ford OEM dual black stripe kit.

fairlane292

The Ghost: Vinyl over other than steel must have this process used (even in a warm environment) 1) hair dryer must be used 2) vinyl must be slowly/carefully pulled "back" not "up"; continually applying the heat from the hairdryer in the joint as the vinyl is pulled back. I have done this many times over the years helping my brother in his vinyl graphics business. If this technique is not used lifting of paint is inevitable over other than metal sufaces (although we use this method all the time just to be safe).

One comment on the paint strategy: ...and you don't have to believe me, just ask around at top quality or custom paint shops; The wing should be removed but not the decklid or the hood. The top fender surfaces adjacent to the hood and decklid need to be re-cleared as well. This area is on the same light surface plane and believe me their clearcoat will not match factory for finish and light reflection (it will [should] be better). Forget all that work of panel removal and put the time into masking off the car. If they remove these panels are going to repaint the nuts and bolts that secure the decklid and hood? It's a small point but I know from removing my decklid for welding and correcting the factory alignment of my hood that these will need to be touched up even if they use a nylon lined socket. Anyway I would strongly suggest you get the opinion from a few quality shops on clearing a panel and not its adjacent suface. That is simply a "no no". Good luck...