chidrock

First, I posted a couple of weeks ago regarding getting tint put on my windows. I did, and afterwards I let my windows dry for 5 days before opening them. Two weeks later I opened my passenger window and had a scratch appear. As the window was going down, I saw a really thin strand balling up at the bottom of the window. When I put it back up, there is now a line going straight down my window where the tint is scratched. I know the older S197's needed moleskin, but I thought this wasn't an issue with the 2010's. I'm bringing it back to the tint place, but I'm worried they might try to say it's the car's fault. Anybody have issues like this with their 2010+?

Second - I noticed a nick in the paint on the side of my car that looks like it might be getting a little orange, possibly rust. I was going to get some touch up paint from the dealer, but is there anything I should do to the area before I put it on? It's a pretty small spot.

Thanks for the help!

08Steeda

3M Kit works miracles. I got the filler, paint and clearcoat from the dealer and when I was done with a noticeable scratch on my rear qtr panel, you could not find it, even in bright sun light.

Just take your time and give it a day between steps.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-3381-Profes.../dp/B00320LLPI

2005Redfire6

3M makes a great quality product, I have plenty of small scratches here and there I may have to get that!

08Steeda

Anyone can do it. It is not hard. Just do a little at a time and let the various coats dry for a day between applications.

Start by cleaning out the scratched area. My kit came with a little pen like tool that you put small wet sand discs on and the other end was like fiberglass. Smooth it all out and then if it is down to raw metal use primer. Let it dry and then wet sand until it is smooth.

If your not down to raw metal you can start at this step. Use the filler. It is like a paste or puddy. I used a old gift card as a knife and scraped off the excess. let it dry for like 8 hours or more. If it is not dry all the way through it will come out when you wet sand.

So when it is truly dry, wet sand lightly until the area directly around it is smooth. Yes the paint will get scuffed and dull. Don't worry. Wet Sand a little and dry and feel with your finger tips. Keep doing it until it is completely filled in and smooth. You will have sanded the excess off the surrounding area too. Again don't worry.

Now apply your first coat of paint. Either with a small artist brush or a painters spray bottle. You can get one very inexpensively from a body supply shop. Just mask the area off if you go the spray route. Then let dry for several hours.

Wet sand again with the finest paper that comes in the kit. Keep it wet while you do it. Little at a time. Dry and check with finger tips again. Make sure there are no gaps, dents or imperfections. You may need to then repaint again and repeat the process.

Then use the rubbing compound along with the 3 inch black foam disc. I used a Milwaukee cordless battery drill for the 3 inch velcro wheel that comes in the kit. Remember do just a little at a time. Once it is really smooth then switch to the polishing compound and the orange disc. Once your done with this step it will begin to look really good.

Now you need to apply the clear coat. Mask off the area again and use a really fine artist brush to apply the clear coat or use a spray can. The area you spray should only be about 1 - 2 inches further out than your previous repair steps. Lightly spray and let dry. Wait about 10 minutes and reapply clearcoat.

Now use the black pad again with the rubbing compound. But be ever so gentle with the rubbing compound. You want to do it enough to remove any brush marks or excess clearcoat. Once those are gone switch to the orange pad again and the polishing compound. Polish and polish and polish. A little compound goes a long way. So take your time and don't let the surface get to hot.

Then apply your favorite cleaning wax and polish. Then apply your favorite finish wax. You can use the orange pad from the 3M kit for all this.

If nothing else it will make things look 95% better and if you take your time and follow the instructions that come with the kit it should be completely gone and indistinguishable.

If it does not work, then you can take it to a body shop. But you will only be out a few bucks and a little elbow grease.

I have never done anything like this before either. But I decided to take the chance and knew that if worse came to worse then I was going to the body shop. But it came out flawless. I am not kidding. I was amazed and so where people from my club. No one could tell.

Just make sure you get the filler, paint and clearcoat that matches your car. I went and order from the ford Dealer. In my research many auto parts stores have the proper codes for the paint but is NOT the same.

My 13 year old son came out mid way and saw the wet sanding and was cringing. He thought I was hosed. But when I was done he could not even remember where the repair was and I bet him $20.00 he could not find the spot. I kept my money!!!

It can't hurt and you might learn something. I have one more new scratch I found so I will take pictures and document the process this weekend. I am no longer afraid to try this!

But you have to do what makes you comfortable. If you totally botch it then you only make the repair area slightly bigger than it is now. I don't think it will make much difference on the cost of such a small repair at the body shop.

Good Luck!

P.S. I went out and purchased larger 3M compounds and swirl remover after doing this and will never have a body shop do my repairs again. As long as there are no dents in the metal, I can handle it. I bet you can too!

I am really picky and my car is a garage queen. I am not happy unless the paint is flawless.

chidrock

Cool - I'm looking forward to your write up. I don't know if mine is all that serious since it is just a nick, but this is something good to know for the future when the inevitible happens.

08Steeda

If you nick is down to metal and rust appears then if you want the repair to be invisible, then this is kinda what needs to happen. Getting the little tube of paint from the dealership and using the little pen or brush hides it from like 20 feet away, but up close looks terrible.

I will be doing the write up with pic's tomorrow or Sunday.

flnsx

Did you pull your door panel open and pull the inner weather strip to see if it has factory felt on it?

If not, spend the $30 and get the Tint Protector Ford Kit and be done.