Seeking Guidance: Tires, Rims and Lowering
#12
Sway bars are a must if you want better handling. If not, your stock ones are fine.
Struts are basically your front shock absorber that your springs mount on. Here's a pic of my Koni strut.
#13
Steeda, Eibach, BMR or FRPP are all great springs and give you a decent drop. As for wheels, I suggest getting at least 19s if not 20s. 18s are just too small for the new stangs. Unless of course you're going to track it. For me, I went with FRPP K springs and Forgestar F14 wheesls 20x9 20x11 and it fits perfectly.
#15
...lowering the car makes it handle really nice with no other additions.
(1) Adjustable Panhard rod to re-center the rear axle.
(2) Bump-steer kit to correct abnormal steering geometry in the front. This is due to the steering linkages being placed at an incorrect angle and toeing out the wheels.
(3) Lower control arm relocation brackets to restore correct LCA positioning (arm should be parallel with the ground). Without this, you may experience noticeable tail-hop and lost traction as the axle is pushed upwards by momentum whenever you accelerate. At this point, you may as well go with tubular LCAs (adjustable is an option; this affects the distance between the front and rear wheels and is best left alone).
(4) Springs and shocks should be matched, otherwise enjoy the bouncy-bouncy. Don't cut the springs either; remember, your springs are progressive and cutting them destroys the spring rate.
(5) Factory bump stops may need to be replaced with shorter versions, otherwise you may bottom out on them whenever you hit bumps. Do not cut them. They are progressive "springs" and it's really a bad idea to just lop them off.
Last edited by Hamhole; 08-05-2011 at 12:11 PM.
#16
After some time, it seems that some aftermarket suspensions will start to squeak...My brother dropped a lot of cash to upgrade the full suspension on his G35...sometime later, everything was squeaking. He took it back to the shop and all they could do was oil/grease all the grommets. One month later, the squeaks came back. Does this happen often? Does your current setup squeak? If not, how long have you been riding on the current suspension and what is the set up? thanks.
#17
I must (respectfully) disagree with this. Simply dropping a Mustang with no other additions situates the suspension past factory specs. If you drop it a lot, handling will suffer unless you address the following:
(1) Adjustable Panhard rod to re-center the rear axle.
(2) Bump-steer kit to correct abnormal steering geometry in the front. This is due to the steering linkages being placed at an incorrect angle and toeing out the wheels.
(3) Lower control arm relocation brackets to restore correct LCA positioning (arm should be parallel with the ground). Without this, you may experience noticeable tail-hop and lost traction as the axle is pushed upwards by momentum whenever you accelerate. At this point, you may as well go with tubular LCAs (adjustable is an option; this affects the distance between the front and rear wheels and is best left alone).
(4) Springs and shocks should be matched, otherwise enjoy the bouncy-bouncy. Don't cut the springs either; remember, your springs are progressive and cutting them destroys the spring rate.
(5) Factory bump stops may need to be replaced with shorter versions, otherwise you may bottom out on them whenever you hit bumps. Do not cut them. They are progressive "springs" and it's really a bad idea to just lop them off.
(1) Adjustable Panhard rod to re-center the rear axle.
(2) Bump-steer kit to correct abnormal steering geometry in the front. This is due to the steering linkages being placed at an incorrect angle and toeing out the wheels.
(3) Lower control arm relocation brackets to restore correct LCA positioning (arm should be parallel with the ground). Without this, you may experience noticeable tail-hop and lost traction as the axle is pushed upwards by momentum whenever you accelerate. At this point, you may as well go with tubular LCAs (adjustable is an option; this affects the distance between the front and rear wheels and is best left alone).
(4) Springs and shocks should be matched, otherwise enjoy the bouncy-bouncy. Don't cut the springs either; remember, your springs are progressive and cutting them destroys the spring rate.
(5) Factory bump stops may need to be replaced with shorter versions, otherwise you may bottom out on them whenever you hit bumps. Do not cut them. They are progressive "springs" and it's really a bad idea to just lop them off.
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...ering-Kit.html
If not, what would be your recommended "Buy List" for a complete lowering kit? Thanks in advance.
#18
In your opinion, then, would this be the better option?
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...ering-Kit.html
If not, what would be your recommended "Buy List" for a complete lowering kit? Thanks in advance.
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...ering-Kit.html
If not, what would be your recommended "Buy List" for a complete lowering kit? Thanks in advance.
If you’re looking for a complete package for your 2011-12 Mustang, we just released a complete Hotchkis Track Pack TVS which includes a bunch of track-proven components. It includes; Sport coil springs (1.1” front and 1.6”rear drop), lightweight tubular adjustable front and rear sway bars, lightweight strut tower brace, K-member brace, subframe connectors, and heavy duty adjustable rear suspension package with adjustable panhard bar, adjustable upper trailing arm, and heavy duty lower trailing arms.
#19
If you’re looking for a complete package for your 2011-12 Mustang, we just released a complete Hotchkis Track Pack TVS which includes a bunch of track-proven components. It includes; Sport coil springs (1.1” front and 1.6”rear drop), lightweight tubular adjustable front and rear sway bars, lightweight strut tower brace, K-member brace, subframe connectors, and heavy duty adjustable rear suspension package with adjustable panhard bar, adjustable upper trailing arm, and heavy duty lower trailing arms.
#20
Hotchkis, thanks for the info on that kit. I should probably let it be known that I won't be tracking my car. In fact, smoothness of ride is far more important to me than anything else. I want the look of the lowered ride, but I don't want to feel the bumps in the road. If that's possible.... that's what I'm aiming for. Will this kit accomplish that, and if so, what's the price tag on it? I'd also appreciate everyone else' feedback as well as to what I should be looking at to accomplish my goal. I realize this isn't a luxury car, and I will feel bumps, I just want to minimize it as much as possible.