oil change
10-19-2010, 08:39 PM
#22
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: tennessee
Posts: 51
So, I'm reading through the thread here and I sez to myself, "self, let's go look at the oil section of the forum."
So I find this thread here : https://mustangforums.com/forum/oil-...ustang-gt.html
I read through it, check out all the links, and go right out and buy 6 quarts of Royal Purple 5w-30 and a wix-made carquest filter. (btw, this filter is the spitting image of the new fomoco 500 that came on the car from factory).
Here I was, buying nothing but mobil 1, running it in all my stuff, recommending it to others, and not even knowing it wasn't "really" synthetic.
Well, that's marketing for you. What a sucker I is.
Anyways, to answer the OP, yes, I do run full synthetic... NOW.
So I find this thread here : https://mustangforums.com/forum/oil-...ustang-gt.html
I read through it, check out all the links, and go right out and buy 6 quarts of Royal Purple 5w-30 and a wix-made carquest filter. (btw, this filter is the spitting image of the new fomoco 500 that came on the car from factory).
Here I was, buying nothing but mobil 1, running it in all my stuff, recommending it to others, and not even knowing it wasn't "really" synthetic.
Well, that's marketing for you. What a sucker I is.
Anyways, to answer the OP, yes, I do run full synthetic... NOW.
10-19-2010, 08:49 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 293
I've read several articles that cause me to believe CAFE (emissions) standards, rather than engine life, have been the reason for automakers recomending using 5-20 over 5-30. I switched my tC from 5-20 to 0-30 mobil 1 and it had much less cam whine.
I would've bought 0-30, but RP doesn't make one or they didnt have it at carquest.
Amsoil 0w30 sso would seem to be the ne plus ultra of the oil for our motors, but after seing that guys cams in the thread I mentioned, I think RP will be just fine.
Besides, I can go to the store and buy RP. Have to order amsoil, though I did use thier transaxle lube in my tC. Made it shift better.
Everything else aside, its PURPLE and its OIL! How cool is dat?
I would've bought 0-30, but RP doesn't make one or they didnt have it at carquest.
Amsoil 0w30 sso would seem to be the ne plus ultra of the oil for our motors, but after seing that guys cams in the thread I mentioned, I think RP will be just fine.
Besides, I can go to the store and buy RP. Have to order amsoil, though I did use thier transaxle lube in my tC. Made it shift better.
Everything else aside, its PURPLE and its OIL! How cool is dat?
10-19-2010, 09:30 PM
#25
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 293
The crux of the matter becomes, is highly refined conventional base stock (group III) synthetic just because Mobil says it is?
Read here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1029178&page=2
That being said...
I've run mobil 1 in my crotch rocket for 27,000 HARD run 10,000+ RPM miles, and the valves were still in spec at 24k, save 2. Is that fine Honda engineering, or "advanced mobil 1 protection"? I'm not sure, but after seeing pictures of cams from a mobil 1 run engine compared to Royal Purple, I'm no longer buying Mobil 1.
It would seem to be "better" and thats what I want. YMMV.
Read here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1029178&page=2
That being said...
I've run mobil 1 in my crotch rocket for 27,000 HARD run 10,000+ RPM miles, and the valves were still in spec at 24k, save 2. Is that fine Honda engineering, or "advanced mobil 1 protection"? I'm not sure, but after seeing pictures of cams from a mobil 1 run engine compared to Royal Purple, I'm no longer buying Mobil 1.
It would seem to be "better" and thats what I want. YMMV.
So mobil 1 is not truly synthetic? I thought it was better to run a synthetic blend for about 10,000 miles to break in and seat engine rings well and then switch to full synthetic, because full synthetic lubricates, sticks so well to the internals. I was planning on using Mobil1, but now not sure.
10-19-2010, 10:43 PM
#28
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 293
The original filter that says fomoco with no part number? no, and I really looked too.
The champs made filter (branded STP or Baldwin around here) and the wix filter (carquest premium or napa gold) are the same size as the OEM filter, the motorcraft 500 and the purolator pureone are actually a bit smaller.
The stp filter looks chintzy inside, so I went with wix.
Also, the wix filter is the closest to the OEM I could find (has the same baseplate and bypass valve design), my dealer doesnt have the new fomoco filter. they only have the 500 (smaller, but they say it will work).
I bought them all and compared them, incase you wondered, and I'm running the wix (carquest) on my car.
if it makes you feel better, the v8 uses the same filter....
The champs made filter (branded STP or Baldwin around here) and the wix filter (carquest premium or napa gold) are the same size as the OEM filter, the motorcraft 500 and the purolator pureone are actually a bit smaller.
The stp filter looks chintzy inside, so I went with wix.
Also, the wix filter is the closest to the OEM I could find (has the same baseplate and bypass valve design), my dealer doesnt have the new fomoco filter. they only have the 500 (smaller, but they say it will work).
I bought them all and compared them, incase you wondered, and I'm running the wix (carquest) on my car.
if it makes you feel better, the v8 uses the same filter....
Last edited by Funster_2011V6; 10-19-2010 at 10:45 PM.
10-20-2010, 07:19 AM
#29
6th Gear Member
Pick a name brand, quality oil and quality filter and then decide on a change frequency based on your driving style/conditions. Unless there's some design or manufacturing flaw in your engine, your engine will last as long as you want to own the car.
I've run dino oil with Fram filters on a 3,000 mile oil change frequency on at least 6 cars years and years ago with most of those engines making it to at least 150,000 miles before the body or suspension went to chit. And the more current vehicles in which I've ran M1 on a 10,000 mile change frequency have gone over 200,000 miles before I just got tired of the cars and sold them.
RP, M1, Amsoil, Pennzoil or whatever... Take your pick. Just use a decent filter and change the oil at a respectable frequency. Unless you tear down your engine you'll never know the difference after 200,000 miles.
But if you insist on changing your oil anything less than 7,500 miles (with the exception of racing), then anything beyond a blend is dollars down the sump.
I've run dino oil with Fram filters on a 3,000 mile oil change frequency on at least 6 cars years and years ago with most of those engines making it to at least 150,000 miles before the body or suspension went to chit. And the more current vehicles in which I've ran M1 on a 10,000 mile change frequency have gone over 200,000 miles before I just got tired of the cars and sold them.
RP, M1, Amsoil, Pennzoil or whatever... Take your pick. Just use a decent filter and change the oil at a respectable frequency. Unless you tear down your engine you'll never know the difference after 200,000 miles.
But if you insist on changing your oil anything less than 7,500 miles (with the exception of racing), then anything beyond a blend is dollars down the sump.