wrxified

Before I take mine in I want someone to say they had their hole reamed and she quit making noise.

MatthewR87

LOL! Good one!

I may not have any choice but to wait. I have a sneaking suspicion that getting the fix here in Canada might take a good while.

koolponycar

H'MM Sounds familiar, It just might be true. Hey MatthewR87, I can see your point too, Sorry if I took offense. This Tuesday coming up is my appointment for the reaming,LOL, and then I will verify when their done and hopefully I will have some pictures to post. My service manager really has been on top of this for me, and really you need someone good, a "Friend" to be in your corner in situations like this. Find a dealership that has a great service department and keep taking your car there. If you go into your dealer throwing puches and hitting them over the head, then your likely not to get anyone to go the extra mile for you, because this is not the dealers fault, its Fords issue. Good luck to us all

LTDan

Call them what you will. They are essentially the same as lifters in an old pushrod engine. They are just shorter and fatter and connect directly to the camshaft instead of a pushrod. The only thing we can do is take Ford's word for it that it won't cause any damage. The part will be covered under the full 5 year/60k mile warranty, as it is an internally lubricated component of the engine. From the description by Ford, it just sounds like it's not an issue that will cause engine damage, just an annoying click. I'm just thankful that they're actually attempting to fix it and not just blowing it off as a "normal engine characteristic".

MatthewR87

Would a clicking noise not imply metal on metal contact though? That should cause damage in the long run.

6+6 Stang

thanks....guess I will ask if they know if a tool or a part is coming....

LTDan

I'm not sure. I've never ran an engine for a long period of time with the valves adjusted incorrectly. Maybe someone else can chime in. If the engine was doing this all the time, I could see it potentially being an issue. But it's really only when the engine is cold and running between 800-1000 RPM, which doesn't happen all that often. That being said, as someone else pointed out, I too had an image in my mind of some Ford tech with a grinder grinding one of my bearing journals with sparks flying out all over the place. I'll deal with the ticking before I let a Ford tech do that to MY engine

makeitblack

so your going to have a metal on metal sound daily in your engine, before you let the creator of the engine fix it? So your taking their word that this wont cause damage, yet you wont take their word on the fix? How I see it, cold start ups are the hardest on the engine regardless of any failure.

So with the info we have are we to presume, the oil passage that is not open enough has problems on cold starts because the oil is thicker and cannot flow fast enough through the passage? Then when the oil warms up its flows faster (its thinner) and the taping goes away? So are we actually sitting here asking ourselves if a lack of oil on a cold start can effect a mechanical part in a engine?... absolutely. But to a degree..and how much that degree is I have no idea.

Ford isn't fixing the noise because its annoying IMO, there fixing it because it causes premature wear. (IMO!)

6+6 Stang

here's the deal, if you are worried about metal shavings, then don't take it in, if take in, they repair, motor starts smoking down the road, then ford fixes that, but to not take in when everyone out here has done the foot work for those wondering how to get this resolved is a bad call......if everyone has the thought, then one day we'll all be lined up at service dept...I say hey...we are ahead of the ball game here than the rest of the population, get in there before you end up waiting 6 months in line when you knew about it...IMO..

MatthewR87

I'm sure it causes some level of damage. My concern is whether the fix is worse than the actual problem. I'm not convinced it is worth going through this assinine repair process when I'm covered under warranty for seven years (extended), and if the engine fails in a couple of winters they'll have to install a new one.

Personally I also wonder why they do not simply replace the offending part, instead of going to all the trouble of making a bigger oil port with a "special tool". If you can get the cam cap out of the engine to drill it, then I'm sure you can just as easily replace it with a new one. There is also a smaller margin for error in this approach, especially when you consider the techs do not have any training with this type of procedure.