makemeknowit

I want to hear more about the original serp set-up working. I'm putting a 351 "Clevor" in my '82 GT and haven't begun to address the pulley situation yet. As for the water pump though, I'm going to run A Moroso electric water pump drive.

zandura99

been there!

I have an 85 with a cleveland, but wasnt the one who origonally did the install. The guy made some adapter plates to attach the origonal pully setup to the car. However, it only worked with the air condensor still installed, so I tore it all out (should sell the adapters on ebay!!) and went to the junkyard and found some brackets for the alternator, waterpump, and crank. Works great.

For my stang, it works just fine with a 4 speed toploader, and a ported torker 2v intake with an 830 holley. dont know the cam, but if I try to launch with any more than 2200 RPM with drag radials I still cant keep traction. Under 2000 it falls flat on its face, so its a bit touchy but once your used to it its a hell of a ride!

Buschris

Ok, I must say something here since I have done this many times and have alot of experience with this particular engine. First of all, stock Cleveland bottom ends are very strong, no need to go with a 4 bolt main. Stock cranks can spin 7k all day long. Secondly, open chamber heads are prone to detonation, so get rid of those but stay with a larger port. Get your compression to at least 9.5:1 but not over 10.5:1 and Premium gas. You mentioned a stroker kit. I am considering this route as well on my next build. Forget the 408 and get the 393 kit. You'll have more expense with the 408 and likely will have problems. Make sure the crank is a true Cleveland style crank and not a Windsor crank with Cleveland journals. If you get the proper crank, you will not need a spacer. If you aren't hitting major nitrous on the track, no need to get a forged crank or H-beam rods, put that money someplace else. The stout I-beams that come with most kits are adequate for a good strong powerplant. If you want an everyday driver, get a dual plane intake with a cut in the plenum divider, a single plane will tear up your bottom end even with the added cubes. Of course, restricting the oil flow to the cam and running an external oil line front to back will help oil your mains, your engine will live a long time. If you aren't strictly using this cam on the strip, no need going with a very high lift cam, but stay at least .550 -.580 that's where the heads start flowing well- duration and lobe seperation is where your power is at. A roller cam will work wonders on this setup, and if high RPM is your goal, go solid lifter. Oh, don't forget to fill your block to the water pump with hard-block. That will stiffen the cylinder walls without overheating your engine. Also you might consider a windage tray but you don't really need main girdle unless you want it. Use studs on the heads and mains.
The Cleveland is not much bigger than a 302, and it will fit a Mustang quite nicely. The only problem I see might be the choice of header. Run 2.5" h-pipe
minimum with low restriction muffs. Most headers are about 1.75" so that will flow very good. I never head a problem with ground clearance but better to
check Google and research what brand others are running. Don't forget to use a stout driveshaft and a safety loop or two. An 8.8 will probably not hold up to a stout Cleveland, get a 9" from Currie they make them to drop right into a Stang. Stay around a 3.73-4.10 gear for street/strip use. Damn, this is getting expensive isn't it? You still wanna play with the big boys? lol You know, a 302 with forced induction would probably be cheaper and give roughly the same numbers. Oh, you wanted the attitude that comeS with a Cleveland with a hot cam. Yeah, it will sound mean as 5H!T

92civy

^^ now that there is excellent info.