H Dean

i need some help on the following:

1. belt set up-i have the old 302 mounts, but understand that the 351w will not accept some or any of those mounts/brackets. Kits are around 1,000 and i hoped to avoid that plus keep somewhat of the 'normal' look under the hood. plus i have A/C that was completely rebuilt to stock and worked great. i can not imagine a serpentine belt working with that system nor do i think anyone would make a pulley with the clutch mechanism to fit.

2. water pump-all 351w's seem to have driver side inlets. Is there any that have passenger side? Will a 302 pump work here? I've stroked the 351w to 408 with alum heads, forged internals and expect to make 450 to 500 hp.

3. firing order-what is the firing order on the 351w?

4. clutch set up-im going from auto to manual trans. i do know if engine compartment will allow me to use a z bar or not. i have headers that are long tube ceramic coated. anyone made this swap? if so what did you do about hooking the pedal to the trans?


I'm literally in the middle of the swap with the 302 out and engine bay begging me to put the new motor in. I'm going to order the trans and associated parts next week. really must have some resolution to these issues to keep me moving forward to getting this thing put back together.

Thanks for your help.

deadcarnahans

Don't know what to tell you about the belt set up. $1000 is too much. The used parts you need are out there, keep scrounging.

It's real simple to take the radiator to the radiator shop. They can relocate the lower hose barb to the opposite side for like $50

6-5-4-8-1-3-7-2

Most headers work with stick cars.

Q: How did your headers fit around your AOD? Did you use shorties not long tubes? I don't think the shorty will work with the Z bar, long tube will so you should be OK.

I see no major issues. Have fun.

H Dean

thanks for your help! I must have some sort of "bad carma" going as I have posted this similar request several times on the classic stang forum with no replies.

I have long tube headers and did have a problem with the AOD. Had to chop and redirect one [driver side]. looks like crap, but works!

This is not a show car, purely headonistic, redneck fun!

I'm hoping between my 302 car, the motor that came from the '86 pick up that i got the block and "old" brackets from that i may have something to work OR atleast to frankenstein something that will work. With what i've spent on the motor and will be spending on the trans/clutch and pedals I can not bring myself to spend that money just to save time during the winter!

I'm really torn on how to set up the clutch---hydraulic, linkage with z-bar or cable set up. All seem to have their pluses and minuses. At this point I'm leaning toward the cable set up for ease of installation and "claimed" relaibility from the websites and reviews i've seen. Any suggestions here?

My next real perceived problem is the pedal travel. I can take the pedals from the "brace" that came with the what i got from ebay and simply install them in the existing brack. Fit is like stock. BUT-it seems i have very little pedal travel. Where and how can I check to see if this issue is a problem? Worst case I can take out the old brace, cut and weld on it to allow for more travel. That seems like alot of work for something that is supposed to be stock. What I dont know is if the brace i got with the pedals is EXACTLY like the brace in the car.....I've begged folks on the classic site to send me shots of the underdash of the their manual setups----no takers!

Likewise I've looked for diagrams in catalogs and websites likewise without any luck.

Thanks again for your help.....by the way are you a flier? from your picture of the post i can not make out what sort of engine/plane that is from.

deadcarnahans

I've done the same mod to long tubes to keep the collector off the pan. It pisses me off that the header manufacturers think everyone wants to run a C4 tranny.

If I were to do it again and money was not and issue, I'd go with the hydraulic clutch. I also hear that the cable is light years ahead of the old equalizer bar and will be more responsive than the hyd set up.
I'm a firm believer that it's better to spend the money and do it right the first time.
The only pics I could produce are original parts in a box. I have automatics in everthing these days. Sounds like a challenge setting the pedal height, travel ,etc

I think I sent pics of some pullies once, but I've never incorporated a power steering unit so my combination of parts is lacking.

No wings yet. Just my A+P
That's a P+W R2800-79 on the right wing of a 1945 Douglas A-26 Invader, needs a good home.

H Dean

With the modern technology it seems that ford or somebody would start putting these diagrams on the web for reference!!@@??

additionally, if i were to sell these parts I would likewise put some examples to link to to get the 'do it your-selfer's' some better reference points---would save $$$$ on tech support as most of us dont want to talk to some goof ball in Turkey.

I've been told I would be alot faster with a built automatic. I have always had automatics and guess i have always been envious of the guys with manuals... Likewise, i wont be racing this car competitively on road courses anytime soon ['vert].

So you would rather go with a hydraulic set up versus cable? Money is not the issue, but ease of install [as i'm doing it] along with reliability and function is the main point right now. My delima is whether or not the set up is correct and how do I make any of the systems work without killing myself in the process..... It looks like the hyd set up is great, but i can see where the cable setup is much more "installer" friendly---just dont get the cable too close to the headers and dont bind it! Maybe I'm missing something....

Also, I can not believe there are not dozens of guys who have done this before and if I could talk to them my guess is that they would have very good points on what of these decisions is the easiest to work with and what to avoid. Based on every 'new' challenge I have undertaken I could be great help to those following what I have tried----experience does count.

Is that your "bird?" I'd love to get my pilot's license. Have a friend from law school who's dad just bought one of those new experimental planes for about $250K----2000 mile range at close to 300 mph! Pretty nice for those "long weekends" to the beach!

I appreciate your input!

deadcarnahans

My buddy put the cable conversion in his 66.
I'll e-mail him and find out more.

later...

H Dean

any luck on your buddy?

i'm hoping to try and order this maybe as early as tomorrow.

i'm still torn between zbar setup or cable.

any help from anyone is appreciated!!!

Hadden

92BOOSTED

Use the water pump and accesories from an explorer. then you will have to get the extended power steering bracket for the swap.
FMS-M-8511-A351, from summit.

Good luck
Ryan

H Dean

just put the finishing touches on my pulley issues. i basically fabricated some of my own. much more simple than i thought and much cheaper. time was very intensive and i had to make several before all of the issues working out. if you have a cutting torch and the metal it is pretty simple once you start. they are not 'pretty', but overall look good versus paying 1000 for a march set up then another 800 for a/c redesign.

i'll post a picture once i'm done and motor in the car.

looking to put that in over the weekend barring something unexpected---famous last words!