Let me know what you think of my mild 351
#11
My 408w was VERY street able...
The only reason it isn't on the road now, is I used a BAD machine shop... and they F'd up the heads...
I was driving it daily through downtown Seattle and a little highway.
My point is, there is more to 'drivability' than the displacement number.
Another option for the engine is to have all of the parts machined and balanced, then shipped to you for assembly.
http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-libe...rt-blocks.html
Currently it looks like Jim is only advertising the 331/347 stuff, but if you give him a call I'm sure he could set you up...
Again, just an option for you,
jason
The only reason it isn't on the road now, is I used a BAD machine shop... and they F'd up the heads...
I was driving it daily through downtown Seattle and a little highway.
My point is, there is more to 'drivability' than the displacement number.
Another option for the engine is to have all of the parts machined and balanced, then shipped to you for assembly.
http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-libe...rt-blocks.html
Currently it looks like Jim is only advertising the 331/347 stuff, but if you give him a call I'm sure he could set you up...
Again, just an option for you,
jason
#13
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. From what you guiys are telling me I should look into a larger displacment shortblock before I make any decisions. I'm going to take a hard look at everything you guys are showing me and then do someresearch and get back to you guys. Again I appreciate all the input, and if anybody else has anything to add or suggest feel free.
#14
A 351 making 450hp will be much less street-able than a 408w making 500. That's a lot of power from a small motor, will likely need something more than 91 to run in it. A 408 on the other hand will rev lower, make more power, and can do it all with less compression and less cam. This is the reason I bought a 408w over a 351. A-side from that, should make upwards of 525 across the board when it's all said and done. Building a good 351 and a good 408, there really isn't much price difference either, as you have to buy the h/c/i anyway, which is the expensive part.
My motor is based off this short block (with 22cc pistons that he happened to have to keep compression at 10:1, and the girdle for $150... can't go wrong with that):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALL-F...spagenameZWDVW
I am EXTREMELY happy with the block, cam immaculate, everything is done beautifully, shipped/packaged extremely well, and excellent parts in it, and everything is forged.
Here's a sum up of what the motor has cost me, everything is CAD... when our dollar was worse than it is now:
Short Block - 2600 shipped
Hooker S/C long tubes - 550
Victor Jr. heads - 1400
Comp Stainless Hi-Tek Rockers - 250
Comp Push rods - 114
Custom Ground Comp Cam - 270
Roller Lifters - 120
Trickflow intake - 700
Canton Pan - 260
HV Oil Pump - 60
Cloyes Timing Gear Set - 45
New Water Pump - 35
ARP Head Studs - 70
ARP Accessory Kit - 60
Accufab 80mm Race T/B - 300
Edelbrock Valve Covers (tall) - 80
That should be pretty much it... I think... Anyway, sum it up and you get roughly 6900... But you must realize this has all been over the course of a year that I have been building this engine, so it's not like I threw away almost 7 grand right off the bat. If I were you I would go this route, it's more expensive than buying a regular 351, sure, but you make twice as much power, have a stronger rotating assembly, more street-able, and you can say "I built that" when you run down that 1/4 mile. You'll also have no regrets, other than not going with a 427 or something, as you bought the best of the best. Do it once, do it right, as has already been said. If you happen to buy a 351, and you're not happy with the power you're getting out of it, you're going to have to go thru everything, and spend twice as much in the end.
If that's all you a sure you will ever want, is 275hp, then buy it, if even think you'll ever want more than the extra 50hp, buy something else in the first place
My motor is based off this short block (with 22cc pistons that he happened to have to keep compression at 10:1, and the girdle for $150... can't go wrong with that):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALL-F...spagenameZWDVW
I am EXTREMELY happy with the block, cam immaculate, everything is done beautifully, shipped/packaged extremely well, and excellent parts in it, and everything is forged.
Here's a sum up of what the motor has cost me, everything is CAD... when our dollar was worse than it is now:
Short Block - 2600 shipped
Hooker S/C long tubes - 550
Victor Jr. heads - 1400
Comp Stainless Hi-Tek Rockers - 250
Comp Push rods - 114
Custom Ground Comp Cam - 270
Roller Lifters - 120
Trickflow intake - 700
Canton Pan - 260
HV Oil Pump - 60
Cloyes Timing Gear Set - 45
New Water Pump - 35
ARP Head Studs - 70
ARP Accessory Kit - 60
Accufab 80mm Race T/B - 300
Edelbrock Valve Covers (tall) - 80
That should be pretty much it... I think... Anyway, sum it up and you get roughly 6900... But you must realize this has all been over the course of a year that I have been building this engine, so it's not like I threw away almost 7 grand right off the bat. If I were you I would go this route, it's more expensive than buying a regular 351, sure, but you make twice as much power, have a stronger rotating assembly, more street-able, and you can say "I built that" when you run down that 1/4 mile. You'll also have no regrets, other than not going with a 427 or something, as you bought the best of the best. Do it once, do it right, as has already been said. If you happen to buy a 351, and you're not happy with the power you're getting out of it, you're going to have to go thru everything, and spend twice as much in the end.
If that's all you a sure you will ever want, is 275hp, then buy it, if even think you'll ever want more than the extra 50hp, buy something else in the first place
#15
Well I have quite a bit saved up but would rather not spend all of my money at once and figured this would be a nice mild 351w build that should keep me happy for at least next year let me know what you think or what you'd do differently. First off I thought I'd start with this because it's brand new and fairly cheap for a longblock.
351w
It's the same as the one on the FRPP website but about 200 bucks cheaper. I know it's a truck engine but a cam swap and a diffenent flywheel and I'm in business. I was thinking of a cam along these lines, not exactly this one but something similar to this cam. With the right carb and a set of long tubes it should be good for about 275-285 hp for under 3500 bucks. This leaves me with enough money to finish up on some of the suspension and brake upgrades I want to do. I think it would be a decent performer until I get the aluminum heads, and the right carb and cam set up. Let me know what you think and don't be to harsh on me.
351w
It's the same as the one on the FRPP website but about 200 bucks cheaper. I know it's a truck engine but a cam swap and a diffenent flywheel and I'm in business. I was thinking of a cam along these lines, not exactly this one but something similar to this cam. With the right carb and a set of long tubes it should be good for about 275-285 hp for under 3500 bucks. This leaves me with enough money to finish up on some of the suspension and brake upgrades I want to do. I think it would be a decent performer until I get the aluminum heads, and the right carb and cam set up. Let me know what you think and don't be to harsh on me.
#16
As far as the size of the TB, yes, it is bigger than they motor will need, 75mm according to all the calculations I did would have been enough, but JUST enough, with about 40cfm to spare, so to account for any error I may have made, or if the motor makes more power than I am anticipating, I went with the 80mm, so i don't have a $300 75mm paperweight sitting around, and when upsizing so little, especially with fuel injection, bigger doesn't really hurt it, if it were a carb, it would be much, much more important to have the correct size on the vehicle for what the engine is demanding.
For injectors I'm going to run 42lb, once again, according to the calculations I have made, I need 36.6xlbs injectors at 43psi and 100% duty cycle, so, to drop the duty cycle to the rouhly 80ish range I went with the 42lbs.
I've attached some pictures for you, I just took these a few minutes ago so this is how it looks as it sits. I have parts for it ready to bolt on, just haven't gotten around to it. Still looking for a balancer for it, I don't know what offset I need as far as the balancer goes, but everything else is either in shipping, or sitting around.
I took a picture of the header and the oil pan, you can see how close it is, even after cutting a good 1.5 inches off the oil pan, I had to weld that side piece of the oil pan in.
Oh also, I have also since chosen to ditch the edelbrock valve covers, so I returned them, and I'm going to get myself a set of trickflows as they're not chrome, and I just like them more.
#17
Liquid 02, the pictures are appreciated, and thanks for all the info,
i am still in the planning stages of my motor but learning everyday and getting closer.
1 last question for you (unlikely): what trickflow intake did you go with, and i assume your figuring your numbers for the injectors and the TB for a 530-550hp range?
i am still in the planning stages of my motor but learning everyday and getting closer.
1 last question for you (unlikely): what trickflow intake did you go with, and i assume your figuring your numbers for the injectors and the TB for a 530-550hp range?
#18
Liquid 02, the pictures are appreciated, and thanks for all the info,
i am still in the planning stages of my motor but learning everyday and getting closer.
1 last question for you (unlikely): what trickflow intake did you go with, and i assume your figuring your numbers for the injectors and the TB for a 530-550hp range?
i am still in the planning stages of my motor but learning everyday and getting closer.
1 last question for you (unlikely): what trickflow intake did you go with, and i assume your figuring your numbers for the injectors and the TB for a 530-550hp range?
As far as the intake goes, I went with the R-series as it is better suited for the purpose of the car. Car is going to be street/strip, and wanted the low end torque that the long runners of the R-Series has. Believe me I spent countless nights up late deciding on an intake manifold, torn between the Edelbrock and Trickflow, but the Trickflow eventually won out with its longer runners, I'm building this motor to redline at around 6 grand.
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08-22-2015 10:00 PM