obxdude018

Would anybody know if the sway bar from both the v6 and v8 are the same, just the front.

obxdude018

I just installed my take off sways today, can notice the difference in the turning. Now, I am looking at other suspension parts, shocks/struts, lowering springs, adj. panhard bar, tower brace. If anyone knows someone that is selling one of these I would be interested. I would like to do lowering springs, but if I do those I would like to replace the shocks and struts at the same time, but then I would need to get a new panhard bar as well. Give me some opinions on what they would do next.




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'05 V6 Torch Red - with dual black stripes
'93 tune with CAI, FRPP T-loc, 4.10 gears, gt sways, sequentials, 1/4 louvers, door scoops, train horn

ABQstang89

You could always do a new HU and put a sub in. Do you have plans on going with FI in the future? If you do that would make me more inclined to suggest the DS. There are tons of appearance mods you could do so take your pick of those. GT brake upgrade...?

JCON

shorty headers. Just did them and they sound good, feel a little better, look better, and were not expensive at all

obxdude018

I have a friend who says he know someone that would be willing to give me his set because he has a set of long tubes. I'm just waiting to see if I get them.

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'05 V6 Torch Red - with dual black stripes
'93 tune with CAI, FRPP T-loc, 4.10 gears, gt sways, sequentials, 1/4 louvers, door scoops, axle-back, train horn

Rdot9

true duals

JCON

That would be awesome if someone gave them to you.

obxdude018

I have thought about duals, but I feel there are things I rather do first.

Twstones

About that aluminum drive shaft. I'm just repeating info that I've read here, but supposedly, the v-6 has a one piece drive shaft, where the GT is a two piece. The new shaft for the GT is 1 piece, and eliminates the center yolk. This give a sizable weight reduction between the shaft and yolk. Whereas the v-6 is already one piece, and the aluminum one is also, you're not eliminating much weight. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you're only talking about 3-4-5 pounds lighter going to the aluminum shaft. Not gaining much, for what they cost.

obxdude018

There is a bigger difference in weight between a aluminum driveshaft and the stock steel driveshaft, there are some with a 20 pound difference, i've read that the stock is right around 40lbs. and you can get some aluminum ones that weigh 17lbs, do I see that as justification to buy, the answer is no, the only way I would do that is if my car: was built and had a supercharger, and the repeated amount of torque that is applied would lead to failure of the u-joints. That would be the reason why I would replace, yes a lighter driveshaft would get the tires spinning faster, but I don't see paying $500 for one.