car dies after tune
12-11-2011, 03:48 PM
#11
Mine still has issues. WOT lean even with upping the value on the SCT to as high as it would go, and dipping idle when moving forward at low speed, say at stop-lights.
Afraid Bama and such can't account for everything that might be off slightly from quirks from their baseline vehicles to yours.
I've just resigned myself to the fact I'm probably stuck with running a lower octane tune until I can bring it into an actual tuning shop. Frankly I think my pump itself is weak.
And I've done everything possible aside from replacing the pump. Fuel filter, yanked the CAI multiple times to find any leak, TB cleaning, MAF cleaning, even replaced the MAF itself. Drove me nuts too.
Afraid Bama and such can't account for everything that might be off slightly from quirks from their baseline vehicles to yours.
I've just resigned myself to the fact I'm probably stuck with running a lower octane tune until I can bring it into an actual tuning shop. Frankly I think my pump itself is weak.
And I've done everything possible aside from replacing the pump. Fuel filter, yanked the CAI multiple times to find any leak, TB cleaning, MAF cleaning, even replaced the MAF itself. Drove me nuts too.
12-11-2011, 04:38 PM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 1,596
Fluctuation is normal for a few hours into a new tune flash, but mine is many months into it. Only occurs when in stop and go traffic or at a light, moving forward a few mph, then pushing in the clutch to roll forward a few more feet out of gear. This along with going as high as allowed over the original tune value for WOT in the tune options(and still going lean) does suggest something with fuel delivery to me. Using the canned JLT tune and cranking the WOT adjust option lessens the pinging on WOT(lean), as does doing the same with the BAMA tune, but it's still there. And only at WOT around 4k RPMs and higher.
But hell if i know ultimately, i'm a computer/electronics geek, this mechanical **** just annoys me.
Will post solution should I find one, I suppose to could try a boost-a-pump for a cheaper test to see if this is the case, but I'm done throwing money or time at it for some while. Eventually I'd like to go FI anyhow, assuming I can get these kinds of quirks worked out, so I'll likely find out when I'm ready to spend the bucks for this:
Last edited by wayne613; 12-11-2011 at 07:13 PM.
12-13-2011, 05:24 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 243
Thanks for this response. A few months ago I ordered a spared filter from C & L. I placed the spare on the car to clean and charge the original one. I guess the spare did not come charged from C & L because I placed the clean/charged on on the car today and it ran ten times smoother with no issues. I hope this resolved it!
12-19-2011, 07:27 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 243
If it has not been oiled, absolutely. I just went to autozone and bought a K&N filter cleaner/recharger kit. If it is still clean, just spray the oil on at the end of your day and let the filter sit overnight. I think you would be good to go (if your issue is only that). Good luck
12-19-2011, 09:22 AM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 4,256
Beat me to it. Use the CRC cleaner
12-19-2011, 10:50 AM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 485
12-19-2011, 10:57 AM
#20
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,717
Mine didn't seem to be cleaned/oiled out of the packaging. I got the Steeda CAI and it seemed like the filter was dry as a bone so I got some of the rattle can K&N filter oil from auto zone and sprayed it. They very well might have been oiled out of the box, but it doesn't hurt to do the process yourself before throwing it on the car... Worst comes to worst, you have an extra clean filter lol.