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2005 V6 Automatic Transmission

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Old 11-20-2017, 01:11 PM
  #11  
Norlin4.0
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This actually has a link to American Muscle (Post #5 )with pictures on how to do the refill and level check. Better than the instructions I was going to provide. The thread of the inner hex is 1/8" NPT. All you need is 1/8 NPT male thread to whatever Nipple size will fit the tubing you are using for the fluid.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/motor...t-install.html
Thank you for the link. I will be doing that in a minute I will let you guys know if the tranny is all good after I fill it up
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Old 11-20-2017, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Norlin4.0
I might just stick with it for a while. Last night I took the pan off the fluid was definitely low but there were no big chunks or broken pieces just the normal debris that adheres to the magnet I was thinking while I’m at IT do the dipstick conversion by http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/5r55s-dipstick.htm RATSTANG and then refill it with the correct amount and give it a try will be te cheapest way to go right now and if something is messed up fr I can just take te ATF out and put it away to use it after rebuild. So there is really no waste of money right?
Interesting I did my own way before the ratstang product appeared, and they almost followed my thinking:





Their idea of a cable is good; it avoids having to bend tubing around obstacles on the way upstairs. OTOH, the classic dipstick looks kinda better. I used 3/4" OD seamless steel tubing and a steel compression fitting brazed to the pan. The dipstick is a 5.0 engine dipstick, shortened to appropriate length.
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Old 11-20-2017, 07:13 PM
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Norlin4.0
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Originally Posted by imp
Their idea of a cable is good; it avoids having to bend tubing around obstacles on the way upstairs. OTOH, the classic dipstick looks kinda better. I used 3/4" OD seamless steel tubing and a steel compression fitting brazed to the pan. The dipstick is a 5.0 engine dipstick, shortened to appropriate length.
That looks really nice tho! Congrats on your work.

Anyways guys I did fill the tranny up to it’s correct level still got nothing forward, reverse engages, forward doesn’t not 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th (D). (read P.S) Tbh I have lost hope tomorrow I’m most likely going to take it down and take it apart and check it out I really really don’t have the money to get a whole new one and I’m not getting an used one so I will most likely go with the rebuild I have found a few kits online for less than 300. But again have you heard if it’s even a thing the upgraded rebuilt kit with like better internals?


P.S the transmission does engage forward I just have to rev it a lot tbh it’s really weird the car is on 4 jack stands and I put it in drive and of course the wheels don’t turn then I give it gas like 3500 to 4000 rpms and it starts going... also if the car is off the floor and on drive I don’t get why the rpms don’t go over 4K like if it was in neutral or park if it’s on D it shouldn’t stop at 4K it should go all the way up lol I’m laughing because this is so weird and I’m so mad . I’m going CRAZY
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:45 PM
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You may have burned up the tranny pump from having it running on low fluid for so long. Reverse uses a much higher pressure when it engages which is probably why you still have it.

If the engine is not sensing a load, it's probably thinking it's in free rev. The PCM has a free-rev limiter built in at around 3500 or 4000 RPM to keep you from floating a valve. Was it bouncing of the limiter at those RPM or holding steady?
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:52 PM
  #15  
Norlin4.0
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Default It was holding steady

Originally Posted by Derf00
You may have burned up the tranny pump from having it running on low fluid for so long. Reverse uses a much higher pressure when it engages which is probably why you still have it.

If the engine is not sensing a load, it's probably thinking it's in free rev. The PCM has a free-rev limiter built in at around 3500 or 4000 RPM to keep you from floating a valve. Was it bouncing of the limiter at those RPM or holding steady?
however now I’m half way to taking my tranny out I’m just gonna open it up and checking wtf is going on in there but check it out -> http://www.levelten.com/mobile/Produ...CTL-FO110-5000
found that rebuild kit so if I need to rebuild I’m just long to go with that I probably won’t put a supercharger on it or anything but at least I will know my transmission is not going to take a **** on me on another 10 years lol mindim always street racing so I need something strong
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Old 11-21-2017, 01:05 PM
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Yep, I'm familiar with Level 10. There's a write up about that kit here:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...mission-build/

I almost went with them when I blew out my tranny (shattered the Input shaft which toasted the torque converter and pump) but, I went with a Remaned tranny. I couldn't justify the extra cost for a car I was keeping near stock and I have a 3yr unlimited mile warranty. Plus the remaned tranny had a lot of the OEM and aftermarket updates that improved the tranny from what I had.

If you do get their kit, you should ask them about the transmission tune they offer . It's something that most tuners don't even think about or offer. It's different than an engine tune. Level 10 can modify the timing of the shifts and other things that most tuners say can't be done.
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Old 11-22-2017, 05:00 PM
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took it out disassembled it and effectively my forward clutches are gone all burned! Bad! I still really want to get the Level 10 rebuild kit but damn $$$600
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:58 PM
  #18  
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Default Does this sound good?

Originally Posted by Norlin4.0
I want to get the Level 10 rebuild kit but damn $$$600
That level 10 so goddamn expensive and all my other clutch packs and EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE TRANNY IS STILL LIKE NEW I know why my forward clutches messed up let’s not get into detail so I found this set it sounds good right from the description ? http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/574000/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180010890109&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=4 4693592161&CATCI=aud-194567928791la-177238951751&CATARGETID=230006180039218678&cadevic e=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyK3SyeXT1wIVD1YNCh293Q6FEAQY ASABEgIBv_D_BwEshouldI just go with these?
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Old 11-22-2017, 10:01 PM
  #19  
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http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/574006/10002/-1
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Old 11-22-2017, 10:57 PM
  #20  
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Check those descriptions carefully. Despite the identical pictures, it looks like that first link is just the forward clutch frictions, while the second one is the steels for the direct clutch.
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