EGR?? Something Else??? 4 codes at once!
03-23-2018, 06:24 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: KY
Posts: 3
EGR?? Something Else??? 4 codes at once!
HELP
New to forum, new to mustang. Its an auto v6. The mustang sat after a small accident (rear end) for 4.5 YEARS, being started only once or twice a month. I got it cheap, knowing it would have some issues, but it did fine for a 3 hour drive its first day back on the road! No issues whatsoever, no rough idle, no lack in power, no CEL. After driving for 3 hours, I left it to sit for another 10 days so I could vacation. I'm home and ready to fix it up and drive it, but my first test drive leaves me stranded and with 4 new codes.
Codes are: P0401, P0108, P0406, P0403, appeared in that order if it matters
Most of them point to the EGR, but my symptoms seem more severe and varied. It will start, run poorly for a few seconds and stall out. Sometimes it won't start at all. Sometimes it revs high for a few seconds and drops to normal revs before stalling. I was barely able to limp it a half mile home and now can't move it out of my driveway without pushing it in neutral. I'm thinking the EGR may be part of the problem, but not the whole story.
Anyone had any issues like this? Any and all suggestions are appreciated
New to forum, new to mustang. Its an auto v6. The mustang sat after a small accident (rear end) for 4.5 YEARS, being started only once or twice a month. I got it cheap, knowing it would have some issues, but it did fine for a 3 hour drive its first day back on the road! No issues whatsoever, no rough idle, no lack in power, no CEL. After driving for 3 hours, I left it to sit for another 10 days so I could vacation. I'm home and ready to fix it up and drive it, but my first test drive leaves me stranded and with 4 new codes.
Codes are: P0401, P0108, P0406, P0403, appeared in that order if it matters
Most of them point to the EGR, but my symptoms seem more severe and varied. It will start, run poorly for a few seconds and stall out. Sometimes it won't start at all. Sometimes it revs high for a few seconds and drops to normal revs before stalling. I was barely able to limp it a half mile home and now can't move it out of my driveway without pushing it in neutral. I'm thinking the EGR may be part of the problem, but not the whole story.
Anyone had any issues like this? Any and all suggestions are appreciated
03-23-2018, 08:07 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: KY
Posts: 3
Update
Caved and replaced the EGR. Probably a mistake, but the thing has sat for a while. Stuff needs replaced.
Anyways, I manually cleared my engine codes with a scan tool, but the car still has the "poor start up --> run bad for 3-15 seconds --> stall" issue. Sounds like it "chugs" out, almost like it's running out of gas. Doesn't sound good. Obviously has gas though, as it still starts. I'm thinking possibly circuit/electrical issue with the wiring connected to the EGR, not necessarily the EGR itself. Not sure.
Any suggestions appreciated
Anyways, I manually cleared my engine codes with a scan tool, but the car still has the "poor start up --> run bad for 3-15 seconds --> stall" issue. Sounds like it "chugs" out, almost like it's running out of gas. Doesn't sound good. Obviously has gas though, as it still starts. I'm thinking possibly circuit/electrical issue with the wiring connected to the EGR, not necessarily the EGR itself. Not sure.
Any suggestions appreciated
03-23-2018, 09:45 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
Check the vacuum lines from the PCV to the upper intake. If it sat for
a long time, the hose could have cracked or something. Check the
PCV that it's seated in the valve cover with no leaks. Any leaks there
it will idle badly. Won't throw any codes, but will run very rough.
Check all vacuum lines really, for dry rot, cracks or bad connections.
Any air being pulled in through the vacuum lines or connections will
cause rough idle, and if too much air, stalling. Vacuum leaks is air
that is not metered, so no fuel is added to that air, so it starves for
fuel with vacuum leaks.
If the EGR is stuck open, it can stall at low RPMS. It will not do anything if
if it were stuck closed. It can also idle rough, and stall if the EGR is stuck
open, or open too much at idle. If you unplug the EGR, it should close, and stay
closed, and it will run fine, but throw codes. I ran many cars with the EGR
disconnected, never had issues, but had a check engine light. Would fix it all
up before emissions, then disconnect it all again. Only a stuck open EGR
will cause idle issues, not shorted wires, not unplugged harness, and not if
stuck closed.
P0108, is a MAP sensor, will also idle rough if bad, it is not sensing the air
charge/pressure in the intake.
All the others are EGR, but as I said, only if it is stuck open, or too far open at idle.
a long time, the hose could have cracked or something. Check the
PCV that it's seated in the valve cover with no leaks. Any leaks there
it will idle badly. Won't throw any codes, but will run very rough.
Check all vacuum lines really, for dry rot, cracks or bad connections.
Any air being pulled in through the vacuum lines or connections will
cause rough idle, and if too much air, stalling. Vacuum leaks is air
that is not metered, so no fuel is added to that air, so it starves for
fuel with vacuum leaks.
If the EGR is stuck open, it can stall at low RPMS. It will not do anything if
if it were stuck closed. It can also idle rough, and stall if the EGR is stuck
open, or open too much at idle. If you unplug the EGR, it should close, and stay
closed, and it will run fine, but throw codes. I ran many cars with the EGR
disconnected, never had issues, but had a check engine light. Would fix it all
up before emissions, then disconnect it all again. Only a stuck open EGR
will cause idle issues, not shorted wires, not unplugged harness, and not if
stuck closed.
P0108, is a MAP sensor, will also idle rough if bad, it is not sensing the air
charge/pressure in the intake.
All the others are EGR, but as I said, only if it is stuck open, or too far open at idle.
Last edited by 08'MustangDude; 03-23-2018 at 09:49 PM.
03-24-2018, 06:25 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: KY
Posts: 3
Good call 08'MustangDude I'll be hunting through those vacuum lines when it gets a little less rainy out. Since I've replaced the EGR already (and the MAP is integrated within the EGR valve), I'll be re-tightening and checking all the connections on the EGR just in case I left something unsealed.
It just seems odd that a slight vacuum leak would cause it to stall out every single time I start it.
It just seems odd that a slight vacuum leak would cause it to stall out every single time I start it.
03-24-2018, 07:59 PM
#5
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
I have a catch can installed, and the one I have, has a screw out sip-stick to
measure the oil level. If the engine is running, and I pull that out, it runs like
total crap, as the air is sucked into the hole, and that's just a 1/4" hole. If I
pull the connector off the intake, it will stammer real bad, then stall. If you have
a bunch of leaks, you have all that unmetered are going into the motor.
As I said, the only way it's the EGR is if it's stuck open. ON these cars, the MAP is
there to used to detect EGR flow, by sensing the change in load when the EGR is
open. It is is not part of the intake, that uses the MAF. SO, what I said above about
intake, disregard, since the MAP is not in the intake. MAP sensors can be used for
a lot of things, like in boost tubes for turbo cars to detect boost levels. So, all those
flow errors would be due to a bad MAP sensor, or short, or corroded harness.
If there is a bad intake manifold gasket, will do the same thing.
measure the oil level. If the engine is running, and I pull that out, it runs like
total crap, as the air is sucked into the hole, and that's just a 1/4" hole. If I
pull the connector off the intake, it will stammer real bad, then stall. If you have
a bunch of leaks, you have all that unmetered are going into the motor.
As I said, the only way it's the EGR is if it's stuck open. ON these cars, the MAP is
there to used to detect EGR flow, by sensing the change in load when the EGR is
open. It is is not part of the intake, that uses the MAF. SO, what I said above about
intake, disregard, since the MAP is not in the intake. MAP sensors can be used for
a lot of things, like in boost tubes for turbo cars to detect boost levels. So, all those
flow errors would be due to a bad MAP sensor, or short, or corroded harness.
If there is a bad intake manifold gasket, will do the same thing.
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