SLP Line Lock
03-12-2006, 03:19 PM
#11
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RE: SLP Line Lock
my old next door neighboor who had an easy 350rwhp in his 89 fox had linelock, he didnt need it but it just makes it so much easier. and you dont have to drop at high rpms, so its easier on your tranny/drive train.
03-12-2006, 08:11 PM
#12
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RE: SLP Line Lock
hehe its not because i cant burnout without it.... its so i dont wear out my back brakes while im doing burnouts....its badass to put it in 2nd gear start burning out and release the switch get a good rolling burnout....the install was somewhat of a pita....cuz if you havent notice your master solenoid is a tight fit between the fenderwell and the valve cover...here are a few pics....
03-12-2006, 08:14 PM
#13
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RE: SLP Line Lock
its nice cuz you dont smell your brake pads burning its alllllll rubber and smoke 
and its badass cuz you can press down the brake halfway and lock it so you can do rolling 5mph burnouts....the thing about it is....when you flip the switch it makes a one way valve so that brake fluid can go into the front and rear brakes....but when you release the brake it cant return from the front brakes only the rear... so now your front brakes are pressed but your rear brakes are not clamped....also its not dangerous like ppl think because if your driving and flip the switch to turn on the line lock it wont do anything unless you press down the brakes....
and its badass cuz you can press down the brake halfway and lock it so you can do rolling 5mph burnouts....the thing about it is....when you flip the switch it makes a one way valve so that brake fluid can go into the front and rear brakes....but when you release the brake it cant return from the front brakes only the rear... so now your front brakes are pressed but your rear brakes are not clamped....also its not dangerous like ppl think because if your driving and flip the switch to turn on the line lock it wont do anything unless you press down the brakes....
03-13-2006, 12:59 AM
#17
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RE: SLP Line Lock
SLP Line Lock kit comes with all the materials needed including: prebent tubing, all the wiring, switch, and noid
Tools Needed: 13mm and 3/8 line wrenches about 3-3.5 inches long, 8mm wrench to bleed brakes, quart of brake fluid, can of engine cleaner
TIPS: get a quart of brake fluid it will save you alot of time bleeding the brakes in the end...keep the resivoir full the whole time your working on the lines
it will leak on you but it will save lots of time in the end...
STEP 1:
Remove both ends of the line closest to the firewall underneath the master cylinder....brake fluid will drip out but dont worry its a slow drip...
STEP 2:
Install the prebent tube that came with the kit into the master cylinder (do not have the SLP noid attached yet it will make it hard to get the fitting threaded correctly)
STEP 3:
Install the SLP noid to the other end of prebent tube thats attached to master cylinder in step 2 (make sure you have put the 2 brass fittings that came with the slp kit in both sides of the SLP noid using teflon tape on the threads...)
STEP 4:
Now just connect the short tube fitting
STEP 5:
When installing your switch its your call i put mine where the traction control button normally is you can be creative... just know that the post nearest the edge of the switch (top) is the HOT and the one nearest the middle is the GROUND... you will run the HOT thru the firewall and to the post closest to the firewall on the SLP NOID....the GROUND wire for the switch can be put around a bolt under your steering colum....now for the POWER post on the SLP noid (its the front post) you will run that to the POST on the distributor or you can run directly to the battery your call....
STEP 6:
Here is the ****ty part...you need to make sure nothing is leaking spray the engine cleaner on all the fittings and let it dry after you are sure its not leaking...turn the wheels all the way to the right so that you can access the brake line behind the driver side tire use the 8mm wrench to remove it....let it run while you do same to the passenger side...after about 10-20 mins of bleeding they should be fine as long as you kept the resivoir full while you were working on the lines.....
Tools Needed: 13mm and 3/8 line wrenches about 3-3.5 inches long, 8mm wrench to bleed brakes, quart of brake fluid, can of engine cleaner
TIPS: get a quart of brake fluid it will save you alot of time bleeding the brakes in the end...keep the resivoir full the whole time your working on the lines
it will leak on you but it will save lots of time in the end...
STEP 1:
Remove both ends of the line closest to the firewall underneath the master cylinder....brake fluid will drip out but dont worry its a slow drip...
STEP 2:
Install the prebent tube that came with the kit into the master cylinder (do not have the SLP noid attached yet it will make it hard to get the fitting threaded correctly)
STEP 3:
Install the SLP noid to the other end of prebent tube thats attached to master cylinder in step 2 (make sure you have put the 2 brass fittings that came with the slp kit in both sides of the SLP noid using teflon tape on the threads...)
STEP 4:
Now just connect the short tube fitting
STEP 5:
When installing your switch its your call i put mine where the traction control button normally is you can be creative... just know that the post nearest the edge of the switch (top) is the HOT and the one nearest the middle is the GROUND... you will run the HOT thru the firewall and to the post closest to the firewall on the SLP NOID....the GROUND wire for the switch can be put around a bolt under your steering colum....now for the POWER post on the SLP noid (its the front post) you will run that to the POST on the distributor or you can run directly to the battery your call....
STEP 6:
Here is the ****ty part...you need to make sure nothing is leaking spray the engine cleaner on all the fittings and let it dry after you are sure its not leaking...turn the wheels all the way to the right so that you can access the brake line behind the driver side tire use the 8mm wrench to remove it....let it run while you do same to the passenger side...after about 10-20 mins of bleeding they should be fine as long as you kept the resivoir full while you were working on the lines.....
03-13-2006, 07:38 PM
#19
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,494
RE: SLP Line Lock
Is the line lock also used to lock the front tires before launch to get a lift?
Because I saw a video of a stang on the 1/4 and he jolted forward real quick and locked up (kinda the same idea as the line lock), his front breaks looked like them pretty much locked, and then he quickly spun the tires and launched. He was on his back wheels for about 30 feet on the track before he came back down... It was one SICK launch.
Just wondering if line lock is also used in that sense as well? If not, what the hell did he do? The lift was RIDICULOUS!
Because I saw a video of a stang on the 1/4 and he jolted forward real quick and locked up (kinda the same idea as the line lock), his front breaks looked like them pretty much locked, and then he quickly spun the tires and launched. He was on his back wheels for about 30 feet on the track before he came back down... It was one SICK launch.
Just wondering if line lock is also used in that sense as well? If not, what the hell did he do? The lift was RIDICULOUS!
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