4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Spark Plugs

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Old 03-22-2006, 06:00 PM
  #11  
Emann0007
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Default RE: Spark Plugs

Here it is:


MOTORCRAFT

PART# / HEAT RANGE
AWSF-32C / stock heat range - copper plug
AWSF-22C / 1 Heat range colder - copper plug
AWSFA-12C / 2 Hea range cooler - copper plug
AGSF-32C/ Recommended for FRPP heads(not sure on heat range)

NGK

PART# / HEAT RANGE
TR-55/ 3951/ Stock Heat Range
TR-6/ 4177/ 1 Step Colder
BP7EFS (PN - 3526) BR7EF (PN - 3346) two steps
R5724-8 (PN - 7317) two and a half steps
R5724-9 (PN - 7891) three steps
R5724-10 (PN - 7993) four steps

AUTOLITE

PART# / HEAT RANGE
764s / Stock
103s / 1 heat range cooler
AR94 / 2 heat range cooler
AR93 / 3 heat range cooler
AR92 / 4 heat range cooler

CHAMPION

PART# / HEAT RANGE
YS-59C / -3 or -4 below stock heat range

DENSO

PART# / HEAT RANGE
IT16 / stock heat
IT20 / -1 heat range
IT22 / -2 heat range
IT24 / -3 heat range
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Old 03-22-2006, 06:32 PM
  #12  
Deannostang
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Default RE: Spark Plugs

I changed my ignition wires with Ford Racing 9mm red. Very good wires and each individual wire has the Ford Racing logo and the cylinder number on it (1-8). No rocket science there. I am about to install these new tech plugs as they have gotten some very good results with them in Mustangs.

http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/

By the way, the best price I have found these plugs to date is at Advance Auto Parts @ $6.99 each. WC Whitney carries them at $8.99 each. Iridium type plugs typically go for $11.95 to $14.95 each so the E3 price really isn't that bad at all. They also have a 100,000 mile/5 year warranty on them.
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Old 03-22-2006, 06:38 PM
  #13  
code3GT
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Default RE: Spark Plugs


ORIGINAL: Emann0007

Here it is:


MOTORCRAFT

PART# / HEAT RANGE
AWSF-32C / stock heat range - copper plug
AWSF-22C / 1 Heat range colder - copper plug
AWSFA-12C / 2 Hea range cooler - copper plug
AGSF-32C/ Recommended for FRPP heads(not sure on heat range)

NGK

PART# / HEAT RANGE
TR-55/ 3951/ Stock Heat Range
TR-6/ 4177/ 1 Step Colder
BP7EFS (PN - 3526) BR7EF (PN - 3346) two steps
R5724-8 (PN - 7317) two and a half steps
R5724-9 (PN - 7891) three steps
R5724-10 (PN - 7993) four steps

AUTOLITE

PART# / HEAT RANGE
764s / Stock
103s / 1 heat range cooler
AR94 / 2 heat range cooler
AR93 / 3 heat range cooler
AR92 / 4 heat range cooler

CHAMPION

PART# / HEAT RANGE
YS-59C / -3 or -4 below stock heat range

DENSO

PART# / HEAT RANGE
IT16 / stock heat
IT20 / -1 heat range
IT22 / -2 heat range
IT24 / -3 heat range


AWESOME INFO. Damn it, just cleaned up the sticky area. Oh well.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:27 PM
  #14  
rbstang
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Default RE: Spark Plugs

do u have to gap the ngk tr55? my dad said they come pre-gapped and you shouldnt have to re gap em.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:30 PM
  #15  
code3GT
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Default RE: Spark Plugs


ORIGINAL: rbstang

do u have to gap the ngk tr55? my dad said they come pre-gapped and you shouldnt have to re gap em.
Depends. I run mine just a shade tight.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:30 PM
  #16  
Matts00GT
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Default RE: Spark Plugs

They are pregapped. I just got done installing my tr55ixs. Man that passenger side is a bitch. The closest spark plug to the firewall on the pass. side didnt want to come out, and then the coil didnt want to go back in. Ended up taking more than an hour, but oh well. I took out the CAI to have a little easier access.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:33 PM
  #17  
rbstang
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Default RE: Spark Plugs

ORIGINAL: code3GT


ORIGINAL: rbstang

do u have to gap the ngk tr55? my dad said they come pre-gapped and you shouldnt have to re gap em.
Depends. I run mine just a shade tight.
well im probably going to be running my hypertech chip again and it advances the the timing to the max. so.. what gap would be good for increased timing? because i dont want to get pinging like i did last time on the dyno.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:36 PM
  #18  
code3GT
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Default RE: Spark Plugs


ORIGINAL: rbstang

ORIGINAL: code3GT


ORIGINAL: rbstang

do u have to gap the ngk tr55? my dad said they come pre-gapped and you shouldnt have to re gap em.
Depends. I run mine just a shade tight.
well im probably going to be running my hypertech chip again and it advances the the timing to the max. so.. what gap would be good for increased timing? because i dont want to get pinging like i did last time on the dyno.
I run mine at about .042
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:39 PM
  #19  
rbstang
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Default RE: Spark Plugs

sounds good to me.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:47 PM
  #20  
Emann0007
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Default RE: Spark Plugs

ORIGINAL: code3GT


ORIGINAL: Emann0007

Here it is:


MOTORCRAFT

PART# / HEAT RANGE
AWSF-32C / stock heat range - copper plug
AWSF-22C / 1 Heat range colder - copper plug
AWSFA-12C / 2 Hea range cooler - copper plug
AGSF-32C/ Recommended for FRPP heads(not sure on heat range)

NGK

PART# / HEAT RANGE
TR-55/ 3951/ Stock Heat Range
TR-6/ 4177/ 1 Step Colder
BP7EFS (PN - 3526) BR7EF (PN - 3346) two steps
R5724-8 (PN - 7317) two and a half steps
R5724-9 (PN - 7891) three steps
R5724-10 (PN - 7993) four steps

AUTOLITE

PART# / HEAT RANGE
764s / Stock
103s / 1 heat range cooler
AR94 / 2 heat range cooler
AR93 / 3 heat range cooler
AR92 / 4 heat range cooler

CHAMPION

PART# / HEAT RANGE
YS-59C / -3 or -4 below stock heat range

DENSO

PART# / HEAT RANGE
IT16 / stock heat
IT20 / -1 heat range
IT22 / -2 heat range
IT24 / -3 heat range


AWESOME INFO. Damn it, just cleaned up the sticky area. Oh well.
MMmmm more info! LOL. Okay Code I have a good question for you. Okay I'm planning on replacing my plugs, wires, fuel filter, tranny fluid, coolant, oil and whatnot for a spring cleaning project. Anywho, my timing is advanced ATM but only 2 degrees. I am on stock plugs. After I install my tranny cooler, shift kit and stall, I plan on adding a dry kit and working my way up to a 100 shot. When I spray, I know I will have to retard the timing, but I don't know how much, and I am unsure of what plugs to buy. I keep reading I need a slighlty colder plug, but I will only be spraying at the track. Is it still neccessary to have the colder plug? And is a colder plug safe for daily driving? Also, what if any gap changes are necessary for spraying and how if at all does that affect daily driving? Lots of Q's I know but I wanan get everything down before I start buying and installing. Last thing, I hear copper plugs are a No-No for N2O.... any truth to that???
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