hey guys, heres how to milk every horsepower from your stock mass air flow meter
03-28-2006, 03:28 AM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location:
Posts: 237
hey guys, heres how to milk every horsepower from your stock mass air flow meter
I was looking at the C & L 80MM mass air meters and was trying to figure out why it would make more power. Its the same diameter as the stock one, and still uses the stock electronics, so I guess it comes down to the long plastic piece in the middle. with that in mind, I took apart my stock mass air meter to see what I could do about it. It turns out, the resistors are fairly close to the top of the meter, and theres an extra inch of hollow plastic blocking my air flow. So, I decided to do something about it.
first, I got the 2 allen screws out and took out the electronics part.
theres no need to take out the whole mass air meter housing, just unplug it.
next examine the plastic shaft. super long and useless huh?
this is where the work begins. I used a par of pliers and chewed away the plastic slowly.
once I started geting near the resistors, I used a sanding drum on my dremel to level it out, and a razor to scrape off the melted plastic.
now that we're done, theres less than half of the original resistance.
before:
after:
heres a pic of the C & L plenum. I wouldnt be suprised if it made equal gains as a trimmed stock one.
enjoy!
first, I got the 2 allen screws out and took out the electronics part.
theres no need to take out the whole mass air meter housing, just unplug it.
next examine the plastic shaft. super long and useless huh?
this is where the work begins. I used a par of pliers and chewed away the plastic slowly.
once I started geting near the resistors, I used a sanding drum on my dremel to level it out, and a razor to scrape off the melted plastic.
now that we're done, theres less than half of the original resistance.
before:
after:
heres a pic of the C & L plenum. I wouldnt be suprised if it made equal gains as a trimmed stock one.
enjoy!
03-28-2006, 09:46 AM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,519
RE: hey guys, heres how to milk every horsepower from your stock mass air flow meter
Keep us informed on this, let us know if you are running into any problems or if you are throwing any codes. I would look into doing this, but have decided (and talked the wife into letting me) to supercharge my stang, now my only problem is which one I want, decisions, decisions.........
03-28-2006, 10:37 AM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 1,974
RE: hey guys, heres how to milk every horsepower from your stock mass air flow meter
That is such a bad idea on so many levels.[sm=jawdrop.gif]
The tang you cut off is to allow the MAF to get an accurate reading of air flow of the system by getting the flow near the center of the pipe, by trimming it you have moved it to only get the air flow near the outer edges (fluid dynamics teach us that flow occurs on the outside edges of a pipe but because of the pulse generation of a motor the inital flow of any system in the middle tappering out to the outside edges.)
By cutting it off you can give the illusion that the car is getting less air, thus taking out fuel, thus leading to a lean condition because there is actually more air then it measured, possible leading to a motor go BOOM condition for being to lean.
Your homework hasn't been done on the C&L MAF either
The C&L MAF is notorious for creating very dangerous A/F ratios with a stock car. People who have bought the MAF have either removed it or run a very custom tune just for that. I put your car on a dyno and get a A/F reading, straight away
The C&L works using testing tubes the are calibarted to match injector size. When you change injector size you don't have to get a tune but only change the tube size that is in the MAF (theory behind it at least). The stoch just uses a resistance wire and has been tuned to work with the complete unit.
You also haven't done you homework on the Stock MAF, the stock MAF is capable of over 300whp. The gains seen by the 80mm C&L are a result of the lean condition in generates, most people say I made such and such with the C&L but the car was really lean from Xk on. I am going to get it tuned. Which they do and they usually don't pick up any more HP but get the A/F smoothed out, so the tune negated the effect of the MAF. (this is not always the case, depends on how modded the car is to start).
If this was such a good idea, don't you think everybody else would already be doing this "free" mod?[>:]
You just cost yourself a few bux for a new MAF and more if you blow the motor.
I would strongly advise against this modification.[sm=badidea.gif]
The tang you cut off is to allow the MAF to get an accurate reading of air flow of the system by getting the flow near the center of the pipe, by trimming it you have moved it to only get the air flow near the outer edges (fluid dynamics teach us that flow occurs on the outside edges of a pipe but because of the pulse generation of a motor the inital flow of any system in the middle tappering out to the outside edges.)
By cutting it off you can give the illusion that the car is getting less air, thus taking out fuel, thus leading to a lean condition because there is actually more air then it measured, possible leading to a motor go BOOM condition for being to lean.
Your homework hasn't been done on the C&L MAF either
The C&L MAF is notorious for creating very dangerous A/F ratios with a stock car. People who have bought the MAF have either removed it or run a very custom tune just for that. I put your car on a dyno and get a A/F reading, straight awayThe C&L works using testing tubes the are calibarted to match injector size. When you change injector size you don't have to get a tune but only change the tube size that is in the MAF (theory behind it at least). The stoch just uses a resistance wire and has been tuned to work with the complete unit.
You also haven't done you homework on the Stock MAF, the stock MAF is capable of over 300whp. The gains seen by the 80mm C&L are a result of the lean condition in generates, most people say I made such and such with the C&L but the car was really lean from Xk on. I am going to get it tuned. Which they do and they usually don't pick up any more HP but get the A/F smoothed out, so the tune negated the effect of the MAF. (this is not always the case, depends on how modded the car is to start).
If this was such a good idea, don't you think everybody else would already be doing this "free" mod?[>:]
You just cost yourself a few bux for a new MAF and more if you blow the motor.
I would strongly advise against this modification.[sm=badidea.gif]
03-28-2006, 11:03 AM
#8
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,235
RE: hey guys, heres how to milk every horsepower from your stock mass air flow meter
ORIGINAL: SilverGTV8
That is such a bad idea on so many levels.[sm=jawdrop.gif]
The tang you cut off is to allow the MAF to get an accurate reading of air flow of the system by getting the flow near the center of the pipe, by trimming it you have moved it to only get the air flow near the outer edges (fluid dynamics teach us that flow occurs on the outside edges of a pipe but because of the pulse generation of a motor the inital flow of any system in the middle tappering out to the outside edges.)
By cutting it off you can give the illusion that the car is getting less air, thus taking out fuel, thus leading to a lean condition because there is actually more air then it measured, possible leading to a motor go BOOM condition for being to lean.
Your homework hasn't been done on the C&L MAF either The C&L MAF is notorious for creating very dangerous A/F ratios with a stock car. People who have bought the MAF have either removed it or run a very custom tune just for that. I put your car on a dyno and get a A/F reading, straight away
The C&L works using testing tubes the are calibarted to match injector size. When you change injector size you don't have to get a tune but only change the tube size that is in the MAF (theory behind it at least). The stoch just uses a resistance wire and has been tuned to work with the complete unit.
You also haven't done you homework on the Stock MAF, the stock MAF is capable of over 300whp. The gains seen by the 80mm C&L are a result of the lean condition in generates, most people say I made such and such with the C&L but the car was really lean from Xk on. I am going to get it tuned. Which they do and they usually don't pick up any more HP but get the A/F smoothed out, so the tune negated the effect of the MAF. (this is not always the case, depends on how modded the car is to start).
If this was such a good idea, don't you think everybody else would already be doing this "free" mod?[>:]
You just cost yourself a few bux for a new MAF and more if you blow the motor.
I would strongly advise against this modification.[sm=badidea.gif]
That is such a bad idea on so many levels.[sm=jawdrop.gif]
The tang you cut off is to allow the MAF to get an accurate reading of air flow of the system by getting the flow near the center of the pipe, by trimming it you have moved it to only get the air flow near the outer edges (fluid dynamics teach us that flow occurs on the outside edges of a pipe but because of the pulse generation of a motor the inital flow of any system in the middle tappering out to the outside edges.)
By cutting it off you can give the illusion that the car is getting less air, thus taking out fuel, thus leading to a lean condition because there is actually more air then it measured, possible leading to a motor go BOOM condition for being to lean.
Your homework hasn't been done on the C&L MAF either
The C&L MAF is notorious for creating very dangerous A/F ratios with a stock car. People who have bought the MAF have either removed it or run a very custom tune just for that. I put your car on a dyno and get a A/F reading, straight awayThe C&L works using testing tubes the are calibarted to match injector size. When you change injector size you don't have to get a tune but only change the tube size that is in the MAF (theory behind it at least). The stoch just uses a resistance wire and has been tuned to work with the complete unit.
You also haven't done you homework on the Stock MAF, the stock MAF is capable of over 300whp. The gains seen by the 80mm C&L are a result of the lean condition in generates, most people say I made such and such with the C&L but the car was really lean from Xk on. I am going to get it tuned. Which they do and they usually don't pick up any more HP but get the A/F smoothed out, so the tune negated the effect of the MAF. (this is not always the case, depends on how modded the car is to start).
If this was such a good idea, don't you think everybody else would already be doing this "free" mod?[>:]
You just cost yourself a few bux for a new MAF and more if you blow the motor.
I would strongly advise against this modification.[sm=badidea.gif]
+1...
I suggest leaving your MAF alone unless your using a power adder. If your N/A don't even touch it..
