Brake options?
#13
RE: Brake options?
Wow...you guys are ALL the best. VERY helpful and detailed info here.
I want my car to LOOK as stock as possible and after reviewing the above I like the way both the Cobra and Mach brakes look. The black Mach brakes would look nice against all my silver...hmmmm decision decisions....
I could easily digest $800 or below for a good brake swap.
I'll let u know what I go with after a bit of my own research.
Thanks for pointng me in the right direction fellas!
I want my car to LOOK as stock as possible and after reviewing the above I like the way both the Cobra and Mach brakes look. The black Mach brakes would look nice against all my silver...hmmmm decision decisions....
I could easily digest $800 or below for a good brake swap.
I'll let u know what I go with after a bit of my own research.
Thanks for pointng me in the right direction fellas!
#14
RE: Brake options?
ORIGINAL: S281SC
Nice writeup Shadow. [sm=goodidea.gif]
Just a couple notes I had...
On the ABS sensor, instead of an E-Torx bit, a regular 6-point 1/4" socket works great.
Not sure what you needed to weld - sounds like the u-bolt for the rear anti-moan bracket? Mine fit just fine, no welding or cutting required. I saw another writeup that cut away 1/2 of the quad shock bracket - didn't need to do that on mine either. Maybe there's slightly different components in some of the various "kits" out there???
Nice writeup Shadow. [sm=goodidea.gif]
Just a couple notes I had...
On the ABS sensor, instead of an E-Torx bit, a regular 6-point 1/4" socket works great.
Not sure what you needed to weld - sounds like the u-bolt for the rear anti-moan bracket? Mine fit just fine, no welding or cutting required. I saw another writeup that cut away 1/2 of the quad shock bracket - didn't need to do that on mine either. Maybe there's slightly different components in some of the various "kits" out there???
I didn't have a 6-point drive socket around so I went out and got the right tool for the job, they were cheap anyway, a little pack of 6 different sizes was $8 or so.
Oh, yeah, it's the quad shock bracket that needs to be cut... I decided to keep that in tact and weld around instead.
#15
RE: Brake options?
ORIGINAL: GodAmGT00
Hey ShadowDrake,
Thanks for the info, it's helped out a TON!!!
I have a few other odds and ends though:
A) Did you change your front wheel bearing assy's when you did you brakes?? Mine have ~140k on them, still don't make any noise, I assume because they're sealed, they last a lot longer...
B) Have you ever had a problem getting either of the caliper brackets off?? Last year when I did pads and a rotor, I could get the pass. side bracket off AT ALL!!! I tried long breaker bars, PB Blaster, heat, and NOTHING.. I just ended up scuffing the rotors and it worked fine, no harm no foul ***NOTE to anyone thinking about this, it's not a great idea, resurfacing the rotors or replacing them is the true way to do this***
C) Do you think the proportioning valve/Master Cylinder could be your "issue" w/ your brakes, instead of re-bleeding them?? I don't know what kind of volume of fluid the Cobra Calipers have over the GT's, but I can assume it takes more fluid force to clamp them, especially since they're larger...
I wonder if the Cobra MC is swappable w/ out having to change the Booster.... I'll check the part #'s...
Also, did you feel a more responsive pedal w/ the SS Lines?? I used them on my old car w/ great success, so I'd be looking to use them this time around... Am I correct in thinking I'd need the Cobra Lines, or are they also interchangeable??
JT
Hey ShadowDrake,
Thanks for the info, it's helped out a TON!!!
I have a few other odds and ends though:
A) Did you change your front wheel bearing assy's when you did you brakes?? Mine have ~140k on them, still don't make any noise, I assume because they're sealed, they last a lot longer...
B) Have you ever had a problem getting either of the caliper brackets off?? Last year when I did pads and a rotor, I could get the pass. side bracket off AT ALL!!! I tried long breaker bars, PB Blaster, heat, and NOTHING.. I just ended up scuffing the rotors and it worked fine, no harm no foul ***NOTE to anyone thinking about this, it's not a great idea, resurfacing the rotors or replacing them is the true way to do this***
C) Do you think the proportioning valve/Master Cylinder could be your "issue" w/ your brakes, instead of re-bleeding them?? I don't know what kind of volume of fluid the Cobra Calipers have over the GT's, but I can assume it takes more fluid force to clamp them, especially since they're larger...
I wonder if the Cobra MC is swappable w/ out having to change the Booster.... I'll check the part #'s...
Also, did you feel a more responsive pedal w/ the SS Lines?? I used them on my old car w/ great success, so I'd be looking to use them this time around... Am I correct in thinking I'd need the Cobra Lines, or are they also interchangeable??
JT
1. I didn't change the front assembly, just the rotor and caliper. I only have 16k miles, so I'm a long shot from needing to swap that. At 140k, you may as well, but it's not hard to tear down to that point... up to you on that one.
2. When changing pads, you don't need to take the bracket off, so it's not an issue, but they were on there TIGHT... and they have threadlocker from the factory. I used a breaker bar, and got a heavy pipe and banged on the end of the breaker bar to finally get it loose. My stang has had major brake work it had seemed before though, so the fronts weren't as difficult as they could have been... One bolt was on there insanely tight though.
3. I considered a different size for the master cylinder and proportioning valve... The pedal isn't a lot softer, but it is a little bit... I know they need to be re-bled because the rear caliper is identical and the pedal got softer after I finished the rear swap too... so bleeding them all around once more is probably in order... I've been too lazy though, and it still feels pretty good.
The lines all appear to be interchangable. The front kit came with new lines, but I did not need them, and have not used them. The only thing was I changed the copper compression washers. The rear did NOT come with new lines, and the old lines are a good fit, again, I changed copper compression washers to stop leaks. I haven't tried stainless steel lines, but that'll probably be next if I continue the brake work... for now, it's more than adequate stopping power for me, and it looks very nice.
#16
RE: Brake options?
ORIGINAL: BBZracing
Wow...you guys are ALL the best. VERY helpful and detailed info here.
I want my car to LOOK as stock as possible and after reviewing the above I like the way both the Cobra and Mach brakes look. The black Mach brakes would look nice against all my silver...hmmmm decision decisions....
I could easily digest $800 or below for a good brake swap.
I'll let u know what I go with after a bit of my own research.
Thanks for pointng me in the right direction fellas!
Wow...you guys are ALL the best. VERY helpful and detailed info here.
I want my car to LOOK as stock as possible and after reviewing the above I like the way both the Cobra and Mach brakes look. The black Mach brakes would look nice against all my silver...hmmmm decision decisions....
I could easily digest $800 or below for a good brake swap.
I'll let u know what I go with after a bit of my own research.
Thanks for pointng me in the right direction fellas!
#17
RE: Brake options?
ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake
With the way it is set up, there's a bracket on the axle it self, and the anti-moan bolt goes across right where that bracket is... I could snap a picture of it next time I have the wheel off... I just did a couple tiny welds, anybody with a MIG welder can do that It's not the prettiest job but it works.
I didn't have a 6-point drive socket around so I went out and got the right tool for the job, they were cheap anyway, a little pack of 6 different sizes was $8 or so.
Oh, yeah, it's the quad shock bracket that needs to be cut... I decided to keep that in tact and weld around instead.
With the way it is set up, there's a bracket on the axle it self, and the anti-moan bolt goes across right where that bracket is... I could snap a picture of it next time I have the wheel off... I just did a couple tiny welds, anybody with a MIG welder can do that It's not the prettiest job but it works.
I didn't have a 6-point drive socket around so I went out and got the right tool for the job, they were cheap anyway, a little pack of 6 different sizes was $8 or so.
Oh, yeah, it's the quad shock bracket that needs to be cut... I decided to keep that in tact and weld around instead.
From the back
From the front
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In between Your Mom's Titties, skeet skeet..
Posts: 2,045
RE: Brake options?
Okay,
I think I've got a great grip on this now... When I originally mentioned the front Pads, I meant to mention that I just had a PITA time taking the caliper brackets off to get the OEM rotors off, and couldn't even after all of the effort trying to get the OEM Rotors off.. So, I changed pads, and reset the calipers... So, I was just basically looking for tips on getting the bracket off... I really don't want to cut anything/Easy-Out anything...
RBstang,
I see what you're talking about but I guess it's sort of O/T: What's w/ the wetness on that part of the exterior axle housing?? Is it a leaky seal?? Bad picture??
JT
I think I've got a great grip on this now... When I originally mentioned the front Pads, I meant to mention that I just had a PITA time taking the caliper brackets off to get the OEM rotors off, and couldn't even after all of the effort trying to get the OEM Rotors off.. So, I changed pads, and reset the calipers... So, I was just basically looking for tips on getting the bracket off... I really don't want to cut anything/Easy-Out anything...
RBstang,
I see what you're talking about but I guess it's sort of O/T: What's w/ the wetness on that part of the exterior axle housing?? Is it a leaky seal?? Bad picture??
JT
#20
RE: Brake options?
I see... I couldn't sneak mine around like that if I tried... I'll see if I can sneak a picture of it... An alternative to welding is to just get a muffler clamp and make it work... there's many ways to get it on there well. Welding was the most secure for the least effort.