David_K

I use brembo Gran turismo up front and bear eradispeed plus two out back and it stops the cobra like super fast

rbstang

i vote for shadowdrake's brakes they look bada$$
david do you have any pics of your cobra? never seen it except your small avatar picture

BBZracing

Wow...you guys are ALL the best. VERY helpful and detailed info here.

I want my car to LOOK as stock as possible and after reviewing the above I like the way both the Cobra and Mach brakes look. The black Mach brakes would look nice against all my silver...hmmmm decision decisions....

I could easily digest $800 or below for a good brake swap.

I'll let u know what I go with after a bit of my own research.

Thanks for pointng me in the right direction fellas!

ShadowDrake

With the way it is set up, there's a bracket on the axle it self, and the anti-moan bolt goes across right where that bracket is... I could snap a picture of it next time I have the wheel off... I just did a couple tiny welds, anybody with a MIG welder can do that It's not the prettiest job but it works.

I didn't have a 6-point drive socket around so I went out and got the right tool for the job, they were cheap anyway, a little pack of 6 different sizes was $8 or so.

Oh, yeah, it's the quad shock bracket that needs to be cut... I decided to keep that in tact and weld around instead.

ShadowDrake

1. I didn't change the front assembly, just the rotor and caliper. I only have 16k miles, so I'm a long shot from needing to swap that. At 140k, you may as well, but it's not hard to tear down to that point... up to you on that one.

2. When changing pads, you don't need to take the bracket off, so it's not an issue, but they were on there TIGHT... and they have threadlocker from the factory. I used a breaker bar, and got a heavy pipe and banged on the end of the breaker bar to finally get it loose. My stang has had major brake work it had seemed before though, so the fronts weren't as difficult as they could have been... One bolt was on there insanely tight though.

3. I considered a different size for the master cylinder and proportioning valve... The pedal isn't a lot softer, but it is a little bit... I know they need to be re-bled because the rear caliper is identical and the pedal got softer after I finished the rear swap too... so bleeding them all around once more is probably in order... I've been too lazy though, and it still feels pretty good.

The lines all appear to be interchangable. The front kit came with new lines, but I did not need them, and have not used them. The only thing was I changed the copper compression washers. The rear did NOT come with new lines, and the old lines are a good fit, again, I changed copper compression washers to stop leaks. I haven't tried stainless steel lines, but that'll probably be next if I continue the brake work... for now, it's more than adequate stopping power for me, and it looks very nice.

ShadowDrake

In the end, I spent about $1000. The slotted and drilled rotors I got were $75 a piece, but like I said in the write-up, you can get slotted and drilled rotors with the kit from stangsuspension.com for only $25 a piece! It's a GREAT deal and you won't have to deal with an extra set of rotors around like I do now. One thing, GET THEM ZINC COATED before you put them on! Mine have horrible rust lines where the brake pad doesn't touch... it looks strange, so next time I tear it down I'm going to get them coated. Add on a little for brake fluid ($15) and compression washers (two per banjo bolt, so 8 total, they were .40 each... pretty expensive for a little piece of copper). $60 for gear oil, $12 for a tube of RTV sealant... and that is about it... it's well worth the money, and quite a learning experience if you do it yourself... of course, add a little extra if you don't have the tools.

S281SC

Here's mine. The U-bolt fits fine right between the two parts of the bracket that weld to the axle tube. No cutting, no welding. Sorry for the lousy picture, but it's late, and I didn't want to pull the wheel off just to take a pic...

From the back


From the front

S281SC

I reused the stock GT Master Cylinder with no problems, no soft pedal, etc. When researching, I found the same part number listed for both GT and Cobra Master Cylinders.

GodAmGT00

Okay,
I think I've got a great grip on this now... When I originally mentioned the front Pads, I meant to mention that I just had a PITA time taking the caliper brackets off to get the OEM rotors off, and couldn't even after all of the effort trying to get the OEM Rotors off.. So, I changed pads, and reset the calipers... So, I was just basically looking for tips on getting the bracket off... I really don't want to cut anything/Easy-Out anything...


RBstang,

I see what you're talking about but I guess it's sort of O/T: What's w/ the wetness on that part of the exterior axle housing?? Is it a leaky seal?? Bad picture??


JT

ShadowDrake

I see... I couldn't sneak mine around like that if I tried... I'll see if I can sneak a picture of it... An alternative to welding is to just get a muffler clamp and make it work... there's many ways to get it on there well. Welding was the most secure for the least effort.