newb2000GT

After looking through the stickies, I'm still looking for more information.

Emann's write-up on the U/L CA's convinced me to do those next.

What other handling mods are worth doing and could someone explain what they do?

For example, are shock tower braces necessary? What exactly do they do?

Pan hard, tubular K-member, sub-frame connectors, etc. I see these terms all the time but don't know what they do, how they do it, if I need/want them or if I can install them myself.

TIA for any help.

code3GT

What kind of set up do you want??? Drag, road course or just all around?

newb2000GT

Yes! lol

I guess I'd say all around. I want traction when I launch but I also want road course handling but just for the street. I'll probably never see a road course track (alhough I may get talked into an occassional auto-x somewhere down the road) and will more than likely hit the strip a few times each summer.

SOHCtimes2

I'm in the same boat as you and I'd love to see how this thread turns out. I definately want good traction when launching at the track, but I want my car to be able to handle really well on the street aswell.
I have planned:
Subframe Connectors
U/L Control Arms
Panhard Bar
Eibach Springs
Strange Adjustable Struts/Shocks
17x9 and 17x10.5 wheels with 275 and 315 tires

Dunno what else. lol

70 MACH I

Panhard Bar and tighter rack bushings make a huge difference in control. Stiffer/lowering springs, struts, incrementally improve things more. Stock, you have a very heavy engine, in a high, undersprung package. I would do suspension first, if you really want sick handling go for a panhard bar. How far you lower the car depends uopon your roads, if you live in a warmclimate without heaved roads, go at least an inch and a half.

A panhard bar holds the rear in line with the chassis, so you track perfectly in a corner. I love the way my car handles with it! With stock bushings cornering hard, your rear midsaligns with the chassis as much as an inch and a quarter. Hit a bump, and the whole thing unloads and you are sideways. This is an area that the imports embarass Mustangs. A stock Civic will out handle a Mustang without mods. But suspension mods are easy to do on a stang, and not really expensive. It just depends how far you want to go, what I reccommend is basic. Good Luck,

John

newb2000GT

Thanks John!

That was another question I had - lowering.

I live in the Midwest and our roads suck two weeks after they rebuild them. The ones that aren't new, really suck. To top it all off, I live in a rural area and see all types of roads from 2-lane back roads, to the interstate, to crappy city streets. After my exhaust install, I have banged it off 2 speed bumps already and my exhaust is at least as far off the ground as stock. Do I lower it? I'm almost afraid to. Can I replace the struts and springs and stay within 1/2" of stock?

What exactly is a panhard bar? You did an excellent job explaining what it does but what does it look like and to what points does it attach?

70 MACH I

I agree, I lowered my car only 3/4" because I live in RURAL Virginia. My house is on a rutted dirt farm road, so many of my mods are a compromise. I used the FRPP Bullitt/Mach I suspension package M-5400-A, I like it, shocks/struts, sway bars, 4 springs, $399.
Here's a link on the MMS Panhard bar, pictures are worth a 1000 words.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/panhard.asp
Any questions, feel free to PM me.

Good Luck,
John

rbstang

sway bars !!!!!!!!