This is the **** I was trying to get rid of on this site with my street video. I will race ANY comparable setup GT with a 1.7L stoplight to stoplight with the vortech. Yes, you do not make 10,000,000 RWTQ at 8 RPMs with the vortech kits. However, as the video showed, you stay out of your powerband for about .1 seconds of every race.


The KBs, espcially the 1.7Ls, get EATEN by vortech cars. I have never seen a 1.7L car with comparable mods to mine run or dyno like mine did. I have also never seen a stock shortblock KB car run anything close to a 11.90 on street tires.

Also, my kit is NON intercooled. There is a intercooled guy on here with stock motor making 440 RWHP, hell I don't think he even has camshafts.

The KB kits are a waste of money on a 2v IMO. Why spend all of that extra cash for a slower less streetable car??? if you really have that much cash and want to spend it all get a set of blower cams with your vortech install and really make some power. The non intercooled vortech kit with blower cams should make 430~ rwhp easy on a dynojet with the stock bottom end, no intercooler.

Edit: Also, your engine will not survive 700 RWHP with just a bottom end swap. you will need a new block as well, the blocks seem to give up around 550~ rwhp. Several companys are selling stronger blocks now to give you the option of making more. You would of course need ported heads and blower cams at that point, but you already alluded to that.

if you really have that much cash and want to spend it all get a set of blower cams with your vortech install and really make some power.

I have never seen a 1.7L car with comparable mods to mine run or dyno like mine did. I have also never seen a stock shortblock KB car run anything close to a 11.90 on street tires.

Why spend all of that extra cash for a slower less streetable car?

ORIGINAL: Birdieman4

...This is a pretty one sided response. First of all, I have seen several 1.7 kb cars run well into the 11's. As a matter of fact, there is a guy on this site who recently posted a high 10 sec run on a 3v block. It is VERY obvious that you have never owned or driven a twin screw setup. If you really think that comparable vortec setups will EAT a comparable kb setup, you don't get out enough to the track. Yes, centrifugal setups shine their best at the track, but screw set ups are phenominal for the street. Do not underestimate a properly set up screw car.
One thing I enjoy doing while traveling around race to race, is check out all the different mustang setups at the track. I have seen literally thousands of blown mustangs, and watched them run. -And i'm tellin ya that a properly set up screw car is not to be underestimated.
Why would he want to do a cam swap if he wants to keep his hp in the safe range? He could just run more boost. The cam swap would be a waste of $ for him. (especially if he's on a budget)
This statement shows us that you have very little experience at the track. Guys are doing it left and right, all over the country.
I am speaking on this topic from personal experience. I have oned and tuned both twin screw setups and centrifugal setups. Having had experience with both, for a street setup, you can't beat a twin screw product. Centrifugal blowers do their best work at the track. Screws shine their best on the street, not the other way around.
Comments like this show your lack of experience with screw cars.