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4.6 cam install
03-09-2004, 06:08 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 34
RE: 4.6 cam install
I know theoretically it should be an easy cam swap, but from what I've read in the mags, they make it seem like something you should have someone else do. I'd just like to have more performance and the popcorn popper sound. Anyone have any ideas on what duration/lift/centerline would give better performance as well as the sound?
03-09-2004, 07:10 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location:
Posts: 212
RE: 4.6 cam install
ORIGINAL: 100th96cobra
cams on a modulare is so easy. just take the valve covers off.
cams on a modulare is so easy. just take the valve covers off.
stangfromhale
Choosing a cam all depends on what you want out of your Stang. You look at lift, duration, lobe separation and centerlines.
Sine you want the rougher idle and more power I'll tell you what I've learned about that.
The higher the duration number, the higher the rpm band, and the higher the HP but this will sacrifice low end power.
It’s very difficult to pick a cam spec that will achieve both high-end power and low-end power.
The centerline and lobe separation are what control the valve timing events. This is when the valves open and close and the amount of time they are both open. This is called overlap. Tight centerlines like 108-110 degrees will increase valve overlap while loose centerlines like 112-114 will decrease overlap. Increased overlap does several things. First it lowers cylinder pressure. Since the valves are open at the same time for a longer time. Increased overlap also causes a rougher idle, and a narrower HP range. But it does provide more peak Horse Power. Loose C/L's will decrease overlap. They'll idle better; have better emissions, and a broader power band. But this will sacrifice ultimate peak power.
I hope this helps you a bit. Just remember it's all what you want out of your Stang.
03-09-2004, 11:11 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 34
RE: 4.6 cam install
Thanks. That did clear things up a bit. I'll probably never go with juice or a supercharger. I'm just trying to get as much as I can N/A. Can you point me in the right direction to find more info on cam swaps in the mod motor. I know it's completely different than a pushrod type setup. Along with the cams and springs, do I need to upgrade to a better breathing top end, i.e. throttle body, upper intake, m.a.m., etc. ? Thanks again for the much needed information.
03-09-2004, 11:43 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location:
Posts: 212
RE: 4.6 cam install
Here's a good write up on the cam swap.
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=12
Unless you get a new plennum I wouldn't bother with the throttle body. The stock one is big enough. The only reason you should get a bigger maf is if you're pegging the stock meter. You won't do that NA.
Here's some dyno results from some plenums available for the 2v.
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=30
An upper intake won't be necessary unless you're getting a power adder. Besides they're way too expensive and show little gains on NA applications.
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=12
Unless you get a new plennum I wouldn't bother with the throttle body. The stock one is big enough. The only reason you should get a bigger maf is if you're pegging the stock meter. You won't do that NA.
Here's some dyno results from some plenums available for the 2v.
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=30
An upper intake won't be necessary unless you're getting a power adder. Besides they're way too expensive and show little gains on NA applications.
03-10-2004, 02:22 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 34
RE: 4.6 cam install
Thanks again. Those articles were helpful. Do you have any idea what kind of performance gains/sound the Comp Cams have (Duration @ .050 is 242int/246exh and .550 lift on int.&exh, rpm range 2200-6200) or (Duration @ .050 is 234int/238exh and .550 lift on int.&exh, rpm range 1800-5800)? They don't give a centerline, but it seems our cam selections are far and few between, so I thought I would go with a brand that I know. I think the lower duration cam would be more usable if you were to stay in the stock limited rpm range, but since I have a programmer I could adjust that limit up a bit to get the most out of the higher duration cam. Sorry for the long posts, and thanks again for the info, it's most helpful.
03-10-2004, 03:16 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,883
RE: 4.6 cam install
ORIGINAL: Snydaleid
Obviously you've never done a cam swap. It's a lot more involved then just removing the valve covers.
stangfromhale
Choosing a cam all depends on what you want out of your Stang. You look at lift, duration, lobe separation and centerlines.
Sine you want the rougher idle and more power I'll tell you what I've learned about that.
The higher the duration number, the higher the rpm band, and the higher the HP but this will sacrifice low end power.
It’s very difficult to pick a cam spec that will achieve both high-end power and low-end power.
The centerline and lobe separation are what control the valve timing events. This is when the valves open and close and the amount of time they are both open. This is called overlap. Tight centerlines like 108-110 degrees will increase valve overlap while loose centerlines like 112-114 will decrease overlap. Increased overlap does several things. First it lowers cylinder pressure. Since the valves are open at the same time for a longer time. Increased overlap also causes a rougher idle, and a narrower HP range. But it does provide more peak Horse Power. Loose C/L's will decrease overlap. They'll idle better; have better emissions, and a broader power band. But this will sacrifice ultimate peak power.
I hope this helps you a bit. Just remember it's all what you want out of your Stang.
ORIGINAL: 100th96cobra
cams on a modulare is so easy. just take the valve covers off.
cams on a modulare is so easy. just take the valve covers off.
stangfromhale
Choosing a cam all depends on what you want out of your Stang. You look at lift, duration, lobe separation and centerlines.
Sine you want the rougher idle and more power I'll tell you what I've learned about that.
The higher the duration number, the higher the rpm band, and the higher the HP but this will sacrifice low end power.
It’s very difficult to pick a cam spec that will achieve both high-end power and low-end power.
The centerline and lobe separation are what control the valve timing events. This is when the valves open and close and the amount of time they are both open. This is called overlap. Tight centerlines like 108-110 degrees will increase valve overlap while loose centerlines like 112-114 will decrease overlap. Increased overlap does several things. First it lowers cylinder pressure. Since the valves are open at the same time for a longer time. Increased overlap also causes a rougher idle, and a narrower HP range. But it does provide more peak Horse Power. Loose C/L's will decrease overlap. They'll idle better; have better emissions, and a broader power band. But this will sacrifice ultimate peak power.
I hope this helps you a bit. Just remember it's all what you want out of your Stang.