URGENT: UPR cable and quadrant and firewall adjuster!
04-28-2006, 02:20 AM
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RE: URGENT: UPR cable and quadrant and firewall adjuster!
I installed these: UPR Clutch cable, 3 hook quadrant and firewall adjuster
You will need: one approximately 1/2" thick spacer with a 1/2" diameter center hole and some washers of the same diameter
Tools needed: several screwdrivers, a metric 1/4" socket set (up to like 10 mm will do) and one 3/8" socket to remove clutch cable inspection plate (damnit I lost that ONE socket in my driveway somehow)
pretty much this is what I did:
1) Jack up front end of car. Get it up about 2-3 clicks on a basic set of jackstands and this will be sufficient
2) Pop hood, prop hood. Gather all parts.
3) Go underneath dash, and lift up on clutch pedal to disengage self adjuster (this is about the last time your car will be self adjusting) and unhook the cable from the quadrant.
(Some directions say to remove the seat, I found this un neccessary. Just depends how you fit under the dash)
4) Go back under the hood, and hold the two clips that secure the top of the clutch cable in and pull it straight out. I found that it needed some convincing, so I just wailed on it and it popped out. Then there are two small bolts that secure this little black plate after those clips. I think they were like 4 or 5mm bolts. Remove those, then the clutch cable should slide out from the firewall.
5) There is one bracket near the brake master cylinder that secures the clutch cable, and for some reason the new one didn't include it. Remove that, I believe this one was an 8mm bolt.
6) Lay under the car, and remove the inspection plate for the cable, and at this point unhook the cable from the clutch fork.
7) Next remove the clip securing the cable to the transmission. A screwdriver will work. Since it has been apart before for me, I just gave it some convincing with my hand and it popped off.
8) Slide clutch cable out of the transmission hole. There is another bracket that secures the cable that goes to the frame right near the motor mount on the driver's side. This bracket is included with the kit.
9) After all this is removed, carefully slide the old crappy cable out from the vehicle.
10) Reverse the removal to get it back in place. Be sure to bolt on the bottom bracket so the cable doesn't touch the engine.
~Now what I found to be easier upon reassembly, is hooking up the cable under the dash first and then to the clutch fork
11) The firewall adjuster just presses into the hole where the cable goes. It secures with 2 screws that came with the kit. Some guys said they had to dremel the hole bigger? Just push hard and the adjuster pops in. This is where I had to remove a bracket and rubber grommet from the cable end because those are not needed with the adjuster.
12) Back under the dash, this is where the old quadrant comes out. It's kind of a pain when on your back, but pretty straight forward. (don't ask me how to re assemble the stock one, i just took it out because it was being replaced)
13) There are 2 clips that hold it on. When you lay under the dash, it will be towards the passenger side and is white plastic. Remove the first clip from the larger part, I used my finger and a screwdriver. This comes off and so does one spring.
14) The other clip holds on the locking mechanism for the self adjuster. Remove that, and then the lock. There is a spring on the back of the lock that you will have to fiddle with to get off, but it will come.
15) Place the spacer on the pivot point shaft where the quadrant goes, and then install the quadrant. I put washers on the quadrant before I put on the clips.
16) Now you can attach the cable. Go under the dash and secure the cable to whichever hook you choose. I chose the tightest one as this seemed to take up the most slack for me. Make sure the cable goes through all the slots it's supposed to on the quadrant so you don't get it bound up
17) Back under the hood, make sure the cable is pressed securely into the adjuster. This is where you can start tweaking it to get the best feel. Once you confirm that the clutch pedal does actuate the fork properly (have someone hit the pedal while you watch the fork) you can put the inspection cover back down and drop the car back onto the ground.
As far as fine tuning goes, I am not quite sure myself. right now it works o.k., but I have to adjust it to get the feel I want.
if anyone thinks I left something out let me know.
You will need: one approximately 1/2" thick spacer with a 1/2" diameter center hole and some washers of the same diameter
Tools needed: several screwdrivers, a metric 1/4" socket set (up to like 10 mm will do) and one 3/8" socket to remove clutch cable inspection plate (damnit I lost that ONE socket in my driveway somehow)
pretty much this is what I did:
1) Jack up front end of car. Get it up about 2-3 clicks on a basic set of jackstands and this will be sufficient
2) Pop hood, prop hood. Gather all parts.
3) Go underneath dash, and lift up on clutch pedal to disengage self adjuster (this is about the last time your car will be self adjusting) and unhook the cable from the quadrant.
(Some directions say to remove the seat, I found this un neccessary. Just depends how you fit under the dash)
4) Go back under the hood, and hold the two clips that secure the top of the clutch cable in and pull it straight out. I found that it needed some convincing, so I just wailed on it and it popped out. Then there are two small bolts that secure this little black plate after those clips. I think they were like 4 or 5mm bolts. Remove those, then the clutch cable should slide out from the firewall.
5) There is one bracket near the brake master cylinder that secures the clutch cable, and for some reason the new one didn't include it. Remove that, I believe this one was an 8mm bolt.
6) Lay under the car, and remove the inspection plate for the cable, and at this point unhook the cable from the clutch fork.
7) Next remove the clip securing the cable to the transmission. A screwdriver will work. Since it has been apart before for me, I just gave it some convincing with my hand and it popped off.
8) Slide clutch cable out of the transmission hole. There is another bracket that secures the cable that goes to the frame right near the motor mount on the driver's side. This bracket is included with the kit.
9) After all this is removed, carefully slide the old crappy cable out from the vehicle.
10) Reverse the removal to get it back in place. Be sure to bolt on the bottom bracket so the cable doesn't touch the engine.
~Now what I found to be easier upon reassembly, is hooking up the cable under the dash first and then to the clutch fork
11) The firewall adjuster just presses into the hole where the cable goes. It secures with 2 screws that came with the kit. Some guys said they had to dremel the hole bigger? Just push hard and the adjuster pops in. This is where I had to remove a bracket and rubber grommet from the cable end because those are not needed with the adjuster.
12) Back under the dash, this is where the old quadrant comes out. It's kind of a pain when on your back, but pretty straight forward. (don't ask me how to re assemble the stock one, i just took it out because it was being replaced)
13) There are 2 clips that hold it on. When you lay under the dash, it will be towards the passenger side and is white plastic. Remove the first clip from the larger part, I used my finger and a screwdriver. This comes off and so does one spring.
14) The other clip holds on the locking mechanism for the self adjuster. Remove that, and then the lock. There is a spring on the back of the lock that you will have to fiddle with to get off, but it will come.
15) Place the spacer on the pivot point shaft where the quadrant goes, and then install the quadrant. I put washers on the quadrant before I put on the clips.
16) Now you can attach the cable. Go under the dash and secure the cable to whichever hook you choose. I chose the tightest one as this seemed to take up the most slack for me. Make sure the cable goes through all the slots it's supposed to on the quadrant so you don't get it bound up
17) Back under the hood, make sure the cable is pressed securely into the adjuster. This is where you can start tweaking it to get the best feel. Once you confirm that the clutch pedal does actuate the fork properly (have someone hit the pedal while you watch the fork) you can put the inspection cover back down and drop the car back onto the ground.
As far as fine tuning goes, I am not quite sure myself. right now it works o.k., but I have to adjust it to get the feel I want.
if anyone thinks I left something out let me know.
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