Installing my o/r H pipe
05-30-2006, 02:03 AM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 1,067
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
I have a MAC O/R H.. And yes, you can totally do it your self.. Seeing its your first time make sure you have a second person to help and allow for a good 2 hours to do it.. Of that 2 hours you will only need about 20 min for the labor and rest of the time will be spent scratching your head and worrying that you dont screw anything up..
Its not hard, you can do it...
Its not hard, you can do it...
05-30-2006, 03:44 AM
#13
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,947
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
id disagree about 20 minutes will be spent actually working, while the other 1 hour and 40 minutes will be spend finding the tools u just set down someplace.
j/k but this happens to me all the time.
j/k but this happens to me all the time.
05-30-2006, 04:50 AM
#14
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
O/R H is essentially a stock h pipe with no cats that is slightly wider in diameter.
the prochamber has a box to allow the most effective flow of gas.
The prochamber costs more, but gets better gains (like 2-3 rwhp more) and sounds alot deeper! No rasp like X's and its all deep and throaty like H's
As for the install.. a word to the wise, either reuse the factory passenger side collector gasket (thats what its called) or get it from ford. Its a piece of metal at the end of the stock header on the passenger side. The POS gasket MAC sends causes leaks even when you can manage to get it in perfectly. Also, make sure you use the little pipe thing (the name of it, someone help?) its a metal ring that fits inside the drivers side pipe, that also prevents leaks with stock headers due to the change in diameter of the pipes.
To get the pass bolts off, get a 1/2" drive socket wrench, a medium depth socket(forget the size)(note:can use deep but its a little harder), a swivel joint, a 10" extension and a 6" extension. Along with some PB blaster, thats the best way to get it off, failing that, if you can get ahold of an impact wrench, those things work wonders...
The three pieces are easy. And it allows you to get the perfect fit for attaching the O2 sensors.
Another note. The O2 sensors. First off, if you can afford to "waste" a wrench, get a combination 22mm wrench (crescent at one end, closed loop at the other) and take a hacksaw or dremel tool and cut a 1/8" slot in the closed end(Edit:Make sure you dont cut it along one of the angles, that is what "grabs" the nut and loosens it, if you cut it there it will slip off :P). Then feed the O2 sensor wire through that slot and slide the wrench onto the O2 sensor and loosen it.
Also, the plastic clip that holds the electrical connections from the engine harness to the sensors is clipped to the top of the tranny. Reach up there and unclip it, or just yank it off the trans (it wont hurt anything, I did it). That will help with the removal of the sensors and the placement when you put em back in.
If you have a tuner, dont bother with MIL Elims, I didnt get em cause i have the tuner, if you dont, well I dont know :P
I had to take the factory plastic clips for the rear sensors and pull them out of the holes provided, I then used zip ties to keep the plastic connections off the road :P
It's all ball and socket joint, I believe it is a 18mm socket. Your gonna need deep sockets or a combination wrench to do it properly (the studs at a PITA b/c they are so long)
Make sure you tighten it all down, once done, turn it on and rev the car, listening for exhaust leaks.... if you hear em, go ahead and tighten up ur connections.
It may also help if you use a floor jack (or even your spare tire jack) to push the pipe up so you can tighten it as high as possible to minimize scrapage. Unless you have another person, then they can act as the jack for ya :P
Most importantly, since you are touching electrical componants, and while its not a constant open circut, I would recommend d/c the negative battery cable, just in case of a freak accident !
[IMG]local://upfiles/17493/A177BBE44F134B12AE3E3B877E82CD21.jpg[/IMG]
the prochamber has a box to allow the most effective flow of gas.
The prochamber costs more, but gets better gains (like 2-3 rwhp more) and sounds alot deeper! No rasp like X's and its all deep and throaty like H's
As for the install.. a word to the wise, either reuse the factory passenger side collector gasket (thats what its called) or get it from ford. Its a piece of metal at the end of the stock header on the passenger side. The POS gasket MAC sends causes leaks even when you can manage to get it in perfectly. Also, make sure you use the little pipe thing (the name of it, someone help?) its a metal ring that fits inside the drivers side pipe, that also prevents leaks with stock headers due to the change in diameter of the pipes.
To get the pass bolts off, get a 1/2" drive socket wrench, a medium depth socket(forget the size)(note:can use deep but its a little harder), a swivel joint, a 10" extension and a 6" extension. Along with some PB blaster, thats the best way to get it off, failing that, if you can get ahold of an impact wrench, those things work wonders...
The three pieces are easy. And it allows you to get the perfect fit for attaching the O2 sensors.
Another note. The O2 sensors. First off, if you can afford to "waste" a wrench, get a combination 22mm wrench (crescent at one end, closed loop at the other) and take a hacksaw or dremel tool and cut a 1/8" slot in the closed end(Edit:Make sure you dont cut it along one of the angles, that is what "grabs" the nut and loosens it, if you cut it there it will slip off :P). Then feed the O2 sensor wire through that slot and slide the wrench onto the O2 sensor and loosen it.
Also, the plastic clip that holds the electrical connections from the engine harness to the sensors is clipped to the top of the tranny. Reach up there and unclip it, or just yank it off the trans (it wont hurt anything, I did it). That will help with the removal of the sensors and the placement when you put em back in.
If you have a tuner, dont bother with MIL Elims, I didnt get em cause i have the tuner, if you dont, well I dont know :P
I had to take the factory plastic clips for the rear sensors and pull them out of the holes provided, I then used zip ties to keep the plastic connections off the road :P
It's all ball and socket joint, I believe it is a 18mm socket. Your gonna need deep sockets or a combination wrench to do it properly (the studs at a PITA b/c they are so long)
Make sure you tighten it all down, once done, turn it on and rev the car, listening for exhaust leaks.... if you hear em, go ahead and tighten up ur connections.
It may also help if you use a floor jack (or even your spare tire jack) to push the pipe up so you can tighten it as high as possible to minimize scrapage. Unless you have another person, then they can act as the jack for ya :P
Most importantly, since you are touching electrical componants, and while its not a constant open circut, I would recommend d/c the negative battery cable, just in case of a freak accident !
[IMG]local://upfiles/17493/A177BBE44F134B12AE3E3B877E82CD21.jpg[/IMG]
05-30-2006, 02:12 PM
#15
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 969
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
im goin in on mine tomorrow with some buddies cuz my mils. should get here today, ill let ya know like i said, but i looked under there and had some pb blaster.... the passanger side will be a bitch and everything else is not a problem
05-31-2006, 04:42 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 969
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
well its on, but its leakin where it hooks up to my catback, cant get the flanges to go on perfect. prolly take it somewhere to finish it up with air tools. pain in the *****, use lots of pb blaster on the drivers side bolts, used 9" worth of extension with u joint on the end on half inch socket setup to get the lower off, the top came off pretty easy for me....the rear was a pain to get to fit up, if it would have fit right in and i coulda got that one bolt off easier it woulda been a lot better, they are the two trouble spots.
05-31-2006, 05:07 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Posts: 3,534
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
ORIGINAL: bigedog8
well its on, but its leakin where it hooks up to my catback, cant get the flanges to go on perfect. prolly take it somewhere to finish it up with air tools. pain in the *****, use lots of pb blaster on the drivers side bolts, used 9" worth of extension with u joint on the end on half inch socket setup to get the lower off, the top came off pretty easy for me....the rear was a pain to get to fit up, if it would have fit right in and i coulda got that one bolt off easier it woulda been a lot better, they are the two trouble spots.
well its on, but its leakin where it hooks up to my catback, cant get the flanges to go on perfect. prolly take it somewhere to finish it up with air tools. pain in the *****, use lots of pb blaster on the drivers side bolts, used 9" worth of extension with u joint on the end on half inch socket setup to get the lower off, the top came off pretty easy for me....the rear was a pain to get to fit up, if it would have fit right in and i coulda got that one bolt off easier it woulda been a lot better, they are the two trouble spots.
05-31-2006, 05:15 PM
#18
EXTREME Moderation
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: BLAM-O
Posts: 7,895
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
ORIGINAL: straitwangin
id disagree about 20 minutes will be spent actually working, while the other 1 hour and 40 minutes will be spend finding the tools u just set down someplace.
j/k but this happens to me all the time.
id disagree about 20 minutes will be spent actually working, while the other 1 hour and 40 minutes will be spend finding the tools u just set down someplace.
j/k but this happens to me all the time.
05-31-2006, 08:16 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 969
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
well its completely on now no leaks, i had the flanges on my catback on backwards
[:@][:'(]
sounds a lot louder, free reving is awesome, couldnt go WOT yet because its raining out, i had to take it in to have someone tighten up the leaks so i didnt get poured on but it was worth a few bucks to not get soaked. ill get a video clip as soon as my friend gets his *** over on a dry night. ohh ya and my one of my mil elims was fed up, the two little bumps used to line up were off [:@][:@][:@], but i just clipped em off and cliped it in, thinking bout bitchin to the place i bought em from...
[:@][:'(]sounds a lot louder, free reving is awesome, couldnt go WOT yet because its raining out, i had to take it in to have someone tighten up the leaks so i didnt get poured on but it was worth a few bucks to not get soaked. ill get a video clip as soon as my friend gets his *** over on a dry night. ohh ya and my one of my mil elims was fed up, the two little bumps used to line up were off [:@][:@][:@], but i just clipped em off and cliped it in, thinking bout bitchin to the place i bought em from...
06-01-2006, 12:32 AM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 487
RE: Installing my o/r H pipe
ORIGINAL: Hash06
well i know on my 97 gt it was probably the most difficult thing ever. i had to remove my starter and it was a huge pain, plus my bolts were so rusted. i hope yours works out better
well i know on my 97 gt it was probably the most difficult thing ever. i had to remove my starter and it was a huge pain, plus my bolts were so rusted. i hope yours works out better