NEED ADVICE FAST-MOST RECOMMENDED DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL
#12
RE: NEED ADVICE FAST-MOST RECOMMENDED DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL
ORIGINAL: Soaring
It's only about 8 or 9 oz. of friction modifier. It certainly won't hurt, and as far as I can tell it helps with the heat. A small investment.
ORIGINAL: Deannostang
75w-90 Royal Purple. No friction modifier needed and works to perfection in your differential. Cuts down drag on gears too. Use Royal Purple fluids in your engine, tranny and rearend and watch your mileage increase AND dynoed power curve.
royalpurple.com/techa/whyrpa.html
75w-90 Royal Purple. No friction modifier needed and works to perfection in your differential. Cuts down drag on gears too. Use Royal Purple fluids in your engine, tranny and rearend and watch your mileage increase AND dynoed power curve.
royalpurple.com/techa/whyrpa.html
#13
RE: NEED ADVICE FAST-MOST RECOMMENDED DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL
ORIGINAL: racemyski
Royal Purple does sell a 75-140 weight oil in their Gear Max line.
Do we have an authority that can say once and for all whether the friction modifier is necessary when using RP gear oil? Btw, this is for my 02 GT vert w/ a T3650.... manual calls for 75-140.
Any ideas??
Royal Purple does sell a 75-140 weight oil in their Gear Max line.
Do we have an authority that can say once and for all whether the friction modifier is necessary when using RP gear oil? Btw, this is for my 02 GT vert w/ a T3650.... manual calls for 75-140.
Any ideas??
The royal purple is supposed to have friction modifier in it already, just read on the bottle to double check.
#14
RE: NEED ADVICE FAST-MOST RECOMMENDED DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL
Theissue offriction modifier or the absence of same is not whether you would still get "healthy two wheel burnouts". Friction modifier reduces the"friction" between the traction-loc clutch plates--without any the plates will stick and bind and you'll get all sortsof popping and clanging from the rear end when you turn sharply (or at all)--you'll also get nearly complete lock-up and guaranteed two-wheel spins...[/align][/align]Putting in less or none is a cheap trick for track cars to make the T-loc really lock up, too much will make the oil too slippery and reduce the clutch pack lock-up, although it's one of those things thatreaches a point where the "damage has been done" and adding more f/m has little additional effect on the traction-loc effect.[/align][/align]So, ideally you want the least amount of friction modifer you can get away with, that amount that keeps the rear-end quiet (I.e. no clutch pack binding) without sacrificing lock-up. I suspect that the actual amount of classicly defined friction modifier additive in synthetic gear oils (all synthetics seem to claim they "have it already") may be little to none at all and that the synthetic oils are naturally more slippery than dino oils--that's why they all "have it already". [/align][/align]What makes me uncomfortable in this sort of situation is when someone else decides how much is the right amount for me...[/align]
#15
RE: NEED ADVICE FAST-MOST RECOMMENDED DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL
ORIGINAL: cliffyk
Theissue offriction modifier or the absence of same is not whether you would still get "healthy two wheel burnouts". Friction modifier reduces the"friction" between the traction-loc clutch plates--without any the plates will stick and bind and you'll get all sortsof popping and clanging from the rear end when you turn sharply (or at all)--you'll also get nearly complete lock-up and guaranteed two-wheel spins...[/align][/align]Putting in less or none is a cheap trick for track cars to make the T-loc really lock up, too much will make the oil too slippery and reduce the clutch pack lock-up, although it's one of those things thatreaches a point where the "damage has been done" and adding more f/m has little additional effect on the traction-loc effect.[/align][/align]So, ideally you want the least amount of friction modifer you can get away with, that amount that keeps the rear-end quiet (I.e. no clutch pack binding) without sacrificing lock-up. I suspect that the actual amount of classicly defined friction modifier additive in synthetic gear oils (all synthetics seem to claim they "have it already") may be little to none at all and that the synthetic oils are naturally more slippery than dino oils--that's why they all "have it already". [/align][/align]What makes me uncomfortable in this sort of situation is when someone else decides how much is the right amount for me...[/align]
Theissue offriction modifier or the absence of same is not whether you would still get "healthy two wheel burnouts". Friction modifier reduces the"friction" between the traction-loc clutch plates--without any the plates will stick and bind and you'll get all sortsof popping and clanging from the rear end when you turn sharply (or at all)--you'll also get nearly complete lock-up and guaranteed two-wheel spins...[/align][/align]Putting in less or none is a cheap trick for track cars to make the T-loc really lock up, too much will make the oil too slippery and reduce the clutch pack lock-up, although it's one of those things thatreaches a point where the "damage has been done" and adding more f/m has little additional effect on the traction-loc effect.[/align][/align]So, ideally you want the least amount of friction modifer you can get away with, that amount that keeps the rear-end quiet (I.e. no clutch pack binding) without sacrificing lock-up. I suspect that the actual amount of classicly defined friction modifier additive in synthetic gear oils (all synthetics seem to claim they "have it already") may be little to none at all and that the synthetic oils are naturally more slippery than dino oils--that's why they all "have it already". [/align][/align]What makes me uncomfortable in this sort of situation is when someone else decides how much is the right amount for me...[/align]
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