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Replacing brake pads. Need advice.
#22
RE: Replacing brake pads. Need advice.
ORIGINAL: gjscott
I'm European and have been changing brake pads plus everything else on cars for nearly 20 years and nobody ever skims disks at a routine brake pad change in Europe and that includes trucks and busses etc
I don't understand your 'heat cycling' statement. Your changing the pad so that negates that, and to harden cast iron you need to get to 1,500 to 1,750 degrees which I doubt any of us are getting to. The disks would warp way before that point and you'd have to change them anyway.
There is no need to skim unless the disks are scored, warped or massively uneven. And even then we replace the disks. This sounds like the similar scam and old wifes tale dreamt up by dealers and garages as the 3k oil change interval. Ford recommends 5k, at least they do in my maintenence manual.
Just because a garage says it, definately doesn't mean it's true. They're out to make money and if you think any other than that you'll be ripped off.
In Europe now many cars that are the same as here are having factory oil changes at between 10k to 20k miles including that first change after new, and there is nothing different about the car or the oil in Europe. Modern engineering tolerances are so accurate and oil quality is so high that it takes a long time for it to get contaminated and degrade. So the garages simply get their money other ways, sales, parts etc
Additionally the master cylinder is designed so that fluid can pass back through it wheither you have ABS or not, if it wasn't your brakes would lock on after the first use. You simply have to push the cylinders back slowly and steadily and maybe remove the resevoir cap in case theres too much fluid. I don't think you'd get any crap in your fluid thais way, if you did you would have had a leak from the piston seals first place.
Well that's my opinion anyway.
I'm European and have been changing brake pads plus everything else on cars for nearly 20 years and nobody ever skims disks at a routine brake pad change in Europe and that includes trucks and busses etc
I don't understand your 'heat cycling' statement. Your changing the pad so that negates that, and to harden cast iron you need to get to 1,500 to 1,750 degrees which I doubt any of us are getting to. The disks would warp way before that point and you'd have to change them anyway.
There is no need to skim unless the disks are scored, warped or massively uneven. And even then we replace the disks. This sounds like the similar scam and old wifes tale dreamt up by dealers and garages as the 3k oil change interval. Ford recommends 5k, at least they do in my maintenence manual.
Just because a garage says it, definately doesn't mean it's true. They're out to make money and if you think any other than that you'll be ripped off.
In Europe now many cars that are the same as here are having factory oil changes at between 10k to 20k miles including that first change after new, and there is nothing different about the car or the oil in Europe. Modern engineering tolerances are so accurate and oil quality is so high that it takes a long time for it to get contaminated and degrade. So the garages simply get their money other ways, sales, parts etc
Additionally the master cylinder is designed so that fluid can pass back through it wheither you have ABS or not, if it wasn't your brakes would lock on after the first use. You simply have to push the cylinders back slowly and steadily and maybe remove the resevoir cap in case theres too much fluid. I don't think you'd get any crap in your fluid thais way, if you did you would have had a leak from the piston seals first place.
Well that's my opinion anyway.
I've been working on my own cars for 30+ years and the only time I "skim" the rotors is if there is a problem like scoring or warpage and these days I don't even bother with the resurfacing, I just replace them because unlike the "old days" where rotors were manufactured so thick that even after a couple of trips to the lathe there was still plenty of metal left, today's rotors have much less metal to discard.
Also, don't open the bleeders unless you have been having brake problems (spongy etc) or want to replace/flush the fluid.
Remove the cap on the master cylinder and if the fluid is near the top and your current pads are very worn, remove some fluid with a turkey baster etc. DO NOT GET IT ON PAINT!! The reason you are removing some fluid is because when you compress the caliper piston the fluid will overflow the master cylinder reservoir and make a mess.
Use a nice C-Clamp to compress the piston (get the tool for the rears as they ROTATE).
Use an old pad on top of the piston when you compress.
One last thing, when you are done, spray the rotor off with brake cleaner spray to remove any contamination.
Also if you are installing new rotors MAKE CERTAIN to spray them off good with brake cleaner as they have a light coating of oil on them to prevent rust.
Make sure to "bed your pads". Generally a couple of well timed panic stops with a short rest in between is all you need.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Be careful when you do this just in case you didn't put something on correctly
Also pump your brakes BEFORE you put the car in drive to seat everything.
The pedal will be soft for the first 3 pumps or so while the calipers seat.
You don't want to be moving and pumping the pedal like crazy because the car isn't stopping!
Just my opinion.
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