Aluminum Blocks
08-20-2006, 12:06 AM
#11
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
ORIGINAL: droptoppony
i think you are talking out of your ***!
these aluminum blocks are proven to be tough....any block can brake from engine failure ie: rod going through it etc but they are not just braking apart.
ORIGINAL: David_K
its true the aluminum blocks are weak in spots and will break apart. little bite sized chuncks will fall out.
its true the aluminum blocks are weak in spots and will break apart. little bite sized chuncks will fall out.
these aluminum blocks are proven to be tough....any block can brake from engine failure ie: rod going through it etc but they are not just braking apart.
I agree!
08-20-2006, 12:06 AM
#12
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
ORIGINAL: droptoppony
i think you are talking out of your ***!
these aluminum blocks are proven to be tough....any block can brake from engine failure ie: rod going through it etc but they are not just braking apart.
ORIGINAL: David_K
its true the aluminum blocks are weak in spots and will break apart. little bite sized chuncks will fall out.
its true the aluminum blocks are weak in spots and will break apart. little bite sized chuncks will fall out.
these aluminum blocks are proven to be tough....any block can brake from engine failure ie: rod going through it etc but they are not just braking apart.
the block ripped apart at the motor mounts. ive destroyed several blocks. you have to be careful with these blocks. its dark i will get you pics of the block tomorrow.
08-20-2006, 12:13 AM
#13
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
What ever the failure point is, the teksid block has been proven to be the strongest production modular block made, besides mabye the Ford GT production block. But that would need modification to bolt a starter to it. So I am not including it. The only other better option is to buy a Sean hyland modular aluminum block. But those are quite expensive at $3500.
This is just a thoguht of mine. No proof, but if you were using urethane or rubber motor mounts the constant jerking of the motor under racing conditions I could understand how much stress it would be under. I would think solid motor mounts would help releive some of that stress. Thatsa probably why drag race motors have that big aluminum plate in front of the block that they bolt to the block and the frame. To add support and prevent all that stress on those motor mounts. Or they use rods and hyme joints that the bolt the block to the frame, like you can see in the cougars picture.......Just a thought
This is just a thoguht of mine. No proof, but if you were using urethane or rubber motor mounts the constant jerking of the motor under racing conditions I could understand how much stress it would be under. I would think solid motor mounts would help releive some of that stress. Thatsa probably why drag race motors have that big aluminum plate in front of the block that they bolt to the block and the frame. To add support and prevent all that stress on those motor mounts. Or they use rods and hyme joints that the bolt the block to the frame, like you can see in the cougars picture.......Just a thought
08-20-2006, 12:23 AM
#14
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
. ill show you this block is ****ed. i had a 99 procharged cobra convertable it was making 700lbs of torque. i went to launch the **** out of it after the pulley swap and tune and it ripped the sides of the block off. peices of the block were still attached to the mounts. my buddy had a big bore stroker motor with cams and solid motor mounts. first pass down the track same thing ripped the block apart. i didnt say they cant take power. its just that are weak in spots.
08-20-2006, 12:26 AM
#15
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
ORIGINAL: Aixtreme89
What ever the failure point is, the teksid block has been proven to be the strongest production modular block made, besides mabye the Ford GT production block. But that would need modification to bolt a starter to it. So I am not including it. The only other better option is to buy a Sean hyland modular aluminum block. But those are quite expensive at $3500.
This is just a thoguht of mine. No proof, but if you were using urethane or rubber motor mounts the constant jerking of the motor under racing conditions I could understand how much stress it would be under. I would think solid motor mounts would help releive some of that stress. Thatsa probably why drag race motors have that big aluminum plate in front of the block that they bolt to the block and the frame. To add support and prevent all that stress on those motor mounts. Or they use rods and hyme joints that the bolt the block to the frame, like you can see in the cougars picture.......Just a thought
What ever the failure point is, the teksid block has been proven to be the strongest production modular block made, besides mabye the Ford GT production block. But that would need modification to bolt a starter to it. So I am not including it. The only other better option is to buy a Sean hyland modular aluminum block. But those are quite expensive at $3500.
This is just a thoguht of mine. No proof, but if you were using urethane or rubber motor mounts the constant jerking of the motor under racing conditions I could understand how much stress it would be under. I would think solid motor mounts would help releive some of that stress. Thatsa probably why drag race motors have that big aluminum plate in front of the block that they bolt to the block and the frame. To add support and prevent all that stress on those motor mounts. Or they use rods and hyme joints that the bolt the block to the frame, like you can see in the cougars picture.......Just a thought
see you said it yourself. you have to take extra measures to make sure the block doesnt rip apart
08-20-2006, 12:33 AM
#16
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
ORIGINAL: David_K
see you said it yourself. you have to take extra measures to make sure the block doesnt rip apart
see you said it yourself. you have to take extra measures to make sure the block doesnt rip apart
I wouldnt want to stroke a 4.6 or bore it more the .030 over. Thats just asking for reliablity problems.
Also I am a road race guy not big into drag racing at all. So being able to take any weight of the front of the car is needed. So saving 70lbs is a big advantage over an iron block. So I had only 2 choices, the teksid or the WAP. The teksid is deffinetly the better option. Fort someone that doesnt care about the added weight and if it well set there mind at ease, go with a iron block. Plus getting a cobra block or short block is alot more expensive than a iron block. Unless your going to build it yourself.
08-20-2006, 12:37 AM
#19
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
you should take your mark 8 block somewhere to have it x rayed. i used to get my climbing equipment x rayed for free at the airport but i dont think theyll let you put a block on the little conveyer belt thingy
08-20-2006, 12:41 AM
#20
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RE: Aluminum Blocks
ORIGINAL: David_K
yeah i have a motor bored to .160
yeah i have a motor bored to .160